The Wand Company TOS Phaser Upgrades??

They have announced that no more phasers or communicators will be produced...ever.
That’s what I love about the Wand Co. they understand the value of collectors investment. When they are done with a run they are done. Check the secondary market like eBay. When the WC announced their tricorders that’s when it came out that the phasers and comms were done for goof. Within one hour of the announcement the prices doubled. If you didn’t get in early on these two wonderful pieces to go with the upcoming tricorder, prepare for a shock. When the tricorders start shipping, I guarantee the prices will double on top of their current astronomical prices.
 
Here's a nice exploded view of the wand remote. I don't remember where I got this, maybe it was on their website once?
 

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Does anyone know if Myron Stapleton is still making his Wand Company replacement phaser handles? I'd very much like to get one (or, if somebody else has one, please get in touch.) Are they better than the SD Studios version?
 
Does anyone know if Myron Stapleton is still making his Wand Company replacement phaser handles? I'd very much like to get one (or, if somebody else has one, please get in touch.) Are they better than the SD Studios version?
Possibly, maybe just try shooting him a message on his FB page. I think he's fairly easy to reach.
 
Hoping someone with more electronics skills / experience can help me out with a Wand phaser upgrade project that has me stumped.

I set out recently to upgrade my TOS Wand phaser with aluminum parts, a more accurate paint job, and a working blue LED added to the P1. Also, since I was going to have to disassemble the P1 in order to install the LED, I decided to take the opportunity to replace the soldered-in stock Wand 100mAh lithium ion polymer battery and microUSB charging port with more easily replaceable button cell / watch batteries (e.g. LR754). I’ve read that folks are starting to see their Wands’ rechargeable batteries fail so thought this was a nice way to “future proof” the build while I had it ripped apart.

This is where the frustration began.

I removed the microUSB port from the Wand’s P1 board and installed a 3-stack of LR754 button cell batteries (see pics). I then used a resistor to drop the voltage to 3.7v to match the Wand's original lithium ion battery. It seemed to me (admittedly an amateur) that this should have worked to power the unit (including the newly-installed LED), but the sound/light board just appears dead when everything is wired up. Everything works (the Wand board and new blue LED) when I reattach the original lithium ion battery, but unfortunately nothing works with the new button cells + resistor set up.

Soooo, I’m clearly missing something. Did I miscalculate the required power output? Should I try adding a 4th button cell or using a different model of button cell or other type of small replaceable battery? I considered installing a 1/2AA like a LS14250 but unfortunately it will not fit in the P1.

Thoughts?
 

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Hoping someone with more electronics skills / experience can help me out with a Wand phaser upgrade project that has me stumped.

I set out recently to upgrade my TOS Wand phaser with aluminum parts, a more accurate paint job, and a working blue LED added to the P1. Also, since I was going to have to disassemble the P1 in order to install the LED, I decided to take the opportunity to replace the soldered-in stock Wand 100mAh lithium ion polymer battery and microUSB charging port with more easily replaceable button cell / watch batteries (e.g. LR754). I’ve read that folks are starting to see their Wands’ rechargeable batteries fail so thought this was a nice way to “future proof” the build while I had it ripped apart.

This is where the frustration began.

I removed the microUSB port from the Wand’s P1 board and installed a 3-stack of LR754 button cell batteries (see pics). I then used a resistor to drop the voltage to 3.7v to match the Wand's original lithium ion battery. It seemed to me (admittedly an amateur) that this should have worked to power the unit (including the newly-installed LED), but the sound/light board just appears dead when everything is wired up. Everything works (the Wand board and new blue LED) when I reattach the original lithium ion battery, but unfortunately nothing works with the new button cells + resistor set up.

Soooo, I’m clearly missing something. Did I miscalculate the required power output? Should I try adding a 4th button cell or using a different model of button cell or other type of small replaceable battery? I considered installing a 1/2AA like a LS14250 but unfortunately it will not fit in the P1.

Thoughts?
TCB: how did you make out? Did I miss a follow-up? I'm curious as to whether your approach to battery exchange will work for the inevitable day that one of mine goes belly-up. Best. Mike.

Hoping someone with more electronics skills / experience can help me out with a Wand phaser upgrade project that has me stumped.

I set out recently to upgrade my TOS Wand phaser with aluminum parts, a more accurate paint job, and a working blue LED added to the P1. Also, since I was going to have to disassemble the P1 in order to install the LED, I decided to take the opportunity to replace the soldered-in stock Wand 100mAh lithium ion polymer battery and microUSB charging port with more easily replaceable button cell / watch batteries (e.g. LR754). I’ve read that folks are starting to see their Wands’ rechargeable batteries fail so thought this was a nice way to “future proof” the build while I had it ripped apart.

This is where the frustration began.

I removed the microUSB port from the Wand’s P1 board and installed a 3-stack of LR754 button cell batteries (see pics). I then used a resistor to drop the voltage to 3.7v to match the Wand's original lithium ion battery. It seemed to me (admittedly an amateur) that this should have worked to power the unit (including the newly-installed LED), but the sound/light board just appears dead when everything is wired up. Everything works (the Wand board and new blue LED) when I reattach the original lithium ion battery, but unfortunately nothing works with the new button cells + resistor set up.

Soooo, I’m clearly missing something. Did I miscalculate the required power output? Should I try adding a 4th button cell or using a different model of button cell or other type of small replaceable battery? I considered installing a 1/2AA like a LS14250 but unfortunately it will not fit in the P1.

Thoughts?
TCB: this is a reply re-do as I didn't see it connected your original. I never saw a follow-up on this—how did you make out? I curious as I can see a day when I will have to do a battery replacement. Best. Mike.
 
What are the best options for blue/grey paints for Phaser 2? Every suggestion I've found is for discontinued krylon products.
 
The Wand Phaser is great out if the box but there are a number of things you can due to improve accuracy.

Here is a list of what I did...
Phaser 1
Replaced the metal side rails and the trigger with aluminum parts.
Painted the body with Zynolyte grey primer.
Replaced the graphic in the meter window.
Added the "crispy" material to the top of the phaser.
Added a red Swarovski crystal between the meter window and the thumb turn.
Dry brushed a little brass on the thumb turn as the original had a brass wheel painted silver. By dry brushing brass it gives the appearance that the paint has worn away exposing brass under the silver.
Painted the sides of the rising site black.
Replaced the brass like front emitter with an actual brass piece.
Drilled an emitter hole in the front of the extending emitter.

Phaser 2
Replaced the handle with a Stapleton handle.
Added a spacer between the handles and the bottom of the P2 body.
Painted the body of the P2.
Replaced the nozzle with an aluminum. Also added new emitter.
Replaced the ten turn.
Made the side hole smaller and replaced the side turn with aluminum piece.
Added a screw to the front bottom.
Kept the back fins but polished a little.
Replaced top metal hood with aluminum part.

View attachment 1281882

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Hi, there.
We swapped some correspondence a while back about replacing the turn dial on the phaser main body. You indicated that it could be done without disassembling the body itself.

I have a replacement black topper from Wand Company. I have a metal replacement dial bought through Ebay. I've a friend with a 3D printer who is willing to make me a small doohickey to go inside the metal dial, through which the new black topper will go.
You're literally the ONLY person I've real who says that the dial can be taken off the top without opening up the body of the phaser. Is it literally just brute force to pull it vertically up? Can you please, please, please talk me through the process of doing this? Just to Princess Leia you - you're my only hope?

Thanks so much.

Peter
 
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It all depends on how well the factory assembled your phaser. I pulled up on the black cap… rock back and forth and pull up. I think I may have used a pair of pliers wrapped in blue tape.
 
It all depends on how well the factory assembled your phaser. I pulled up on the black cap… rock back and forth and pull up. I think I may have used a pair of pliers wrapped in blue tape.
Hi, there! Thanks for that...I didn't see this response, and work got in the way of advancing the project.
So, simply rocking and pulling? Does anything get irreparably broken in the process? (Any snapping of the piece in the process?). I actually do have a replacement black cap from Wand Company for a worst case scenario.
 
Hoping someone with more electronics skills / experience can help me out with a Wand phaser upgrade project that has me stumped.

I set out recently to upgrade my TOS Wand phaser with aluminum parts, a more accurate paint job, and a working blue LED added to the P1. Also, since I was going to have to disassemble the P1 in order to install the LED, I decided to take the opportunity to replace the soldered-in stock Wand 100mAh lithium ion polymer battery and microUSB charging port with more easily replaceable button cell / watch batteries (e.g. LR754). I’ve read that folks are starting to see their Wands’ rechargeable batteries fail so thought this was a nice way to “future proof” the build while I had it ripped apart.

This is where the frustration began.

I removed the microUSB port from the Wand’s P1 board and installed a 3-stack of LR754 button cell batteries (see pics). I then used a resistor to drop the voltage to 3.7v to match the Wand's original lithium ion battery. It seemed to me (admittedly an amateur) that this should have worked to power the unit (including the newly-installed LED), but the sound/light board just appears dead when everything is wired up. Everything works (the Wand board and new blue LED) when I reattach the original lithium ion battery, but unfortunately nothing works with the new button cells + resistor set up.

Soooo, I’m clearly missing something. Did I miscalculate the required power output? Should I try adding a 4th button cell or using a different model of button cell or other type of small replaceable battery? I considered installing a 1/2AA like a LS14250 but unfortunately it will not fit in the P1.

Thoughts?
Hello, TCB, guess you are a big Elvis fan, like me!!!
I just have to ask, how did you get the wand company phaser apart, and put on a nice chrome nozzle? I've had mine for about 6 months, and nobody online knows how to upgrade this phaser. You have some great photos of your work, but I don't want to wreck my phaser, but I need to make it more accurate to the original, as you have done. Please let me know.

Thanks in advance.
 

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