The PEPAKURA question thread - PLEASE READ RULES IN FIRST POST!

[Amazingspidey6]

This is the one, Is there a way to make it the right size using A4 paper? I can't find the setting.

 

[huttman]

ignore this reply, thanks

 

[huttman]

Hope this helps. Left side is step 1, right side shows step 2

If you are still having issues, send me a PM and ill help you further

 

[Amazingspidey6]

Thank you for helping a beginner mate! I downloaded an older version of the software and I can now see the setting! Need to try it out!
Also, what do you guys think of my first ever attempt on doing Pepakura:

 

[Shinon]

File --> Print and paper settings.
I think it's that.

Envoyé depuis mon GT-I8190 avec Tapatalk

 

[jangoD2]

if anyone is strugling with pepakura i would sugest "the hero tutiuals" on youtube because he explaings the whole process of building strengthing etc..

 

[nicolai1011]

Anyone here from th PH (pref. Makati Area)who can point me on where to buy resin(fiberglass) for my pep armor? appreciate if anyone can lend a hand. ive done my mark VII helm and i cant find any dealer specially

saklolo! :S

Thanks in advance guys!

 

[RocketBoy]

is anyone able to pm me some foam pep files for the silver centurion armor from iron man 3
If you dont have a model i will most a whole package of iron man models in obj format
The models were extracted from the IOS game Iron Man 3 and huge thank you to user Balmung for doing so
his thread for the models are here
http://www.therpf.com/f24/iron-man-3-armors-3d-models-release-reference-foundation-183705/
i hope you pep experts are able to reply soon
thanks

 

[Henderino]

If anybody is still having trouble with Pepakura - I've just started a 'Pepakura for beginners - by a beginner!' tutorial here: 'm.youtube.com/watch?v=BrSHxpzmymA'.

 

[Mighty]

Hi! I think I am right but want to be sure before I start cutting foam, its about scaling. Soooo, the foam files I have were done for someone who is 206cm tall I am 178cm tall, so here is what I did.

178/206 = .86

So I assumed that in Pep, in the SCALE box I would multiply the original number by .86. For example, if the original scale number is 100, for my size it should be 86, correct?

Thanks in advance

 

[laellee]

In a nutshell, YES. Point-to-point measuring will help you as well, but the math is solid. Keep in mind, different sections of a suit may need different scaling (us wiry guys have thin waists and monkey arms), but yes it sounds correct.
In the end, using your (in Pepakura Designer) 2D Menu>Edit Mode>Measure Distance Between Two Points will help predict results. Good luck.

 

[Uridium]

Guys, I am looking for a Pep file quite urgently.

I am going to a masquerade ball soon with my misses, and would like to make my own mask.
I have seen some amazing 'Splicer Bird' masks from BioShock, but haven not been able to find a pep.
If anyone has this or another cool pep that would work at a masquerade ball, I would really appriciate a PM.

EDIT: I have found the Splicer Peps, thanks to helpful RPF forum people! Yaay

 

[usajdm]

Need help!
Need someones help in putting together a pep file for a JAKE from Jake and the Neverland Pirates "head".
The head from the Park Character, not the cartoon.
Low Poly is fine.
Bandana need not be put in the file.
Just need a base to get started on.
Kinda runnin short on time.
Can pay alittle for the help.
Please, anyone that can do this, Id be so greatful.
Headed off to work now, so wont be able to reply till tommorow, but please feel free to start.
Thank you so much to all that consider.

 

[PiazzoDelsays]

Hey everybody! New to Peppin' but have read extensively through the resources on this website, youtube videos, and other websites for about two weeks before taking the plunge and starting my first pep!

I decided to go with an Iron Man 2 model for my first pep, because well, that seems to be the status quo haha.

I started getting it put together and i'm in the final leg of the battle that is Pepakura. I've run into some problems, but I've decided to just barrel through the entire process instead of starting over, getting pro on my pep skills, and then screwing up a perfect pep in the fiberglass bondo stages. I'd rather have this one be completed horribly, then incompleted horribly.

My question is, my pep is basically symmetrical, but due to some lazy cutting on my part, its just not sitting correctly. The jaw kind of flares out to the right a little bit. If I can steady it somehow when I'm applying the fiberglass, how much control will I have when I go to Bondo? Does a slightly bad pep mean that my whole project is ruined? Or do I really get some leeway in the later phases?

Thanks everyone! This site has been invaluable throughout this journey for me!

 

[laellee]

Piazzo, you can used cardboard to make triangular or rectangular (cross-wise) supports inside the helmet before applying your first coat of resin to the outside. Add supports (temporary, just cut to fit or tape in) to the inside to get the jaw held into the symmetrically correct position, and then apply your first resin coat to the outside. That coat will 'freeze' your helmet into the shape you've set it into with the supports. I would apply a second coat of resin to the outside before removing your supports and continuing on fiberglassing. If for some reason the shape still is warped after the initial resin coat, you can always heat the area with a heat gun (or possibly a hairdryer) and pull it into shape that way. Bondo will clean up the surface and remove slight warping with enough work, but you want to get the majority of symmetry problems out with the first resining. Once you fiberglass the inside, it's pretty well set permanently, and you don't want to plan on using bondo to fix things you can take care of earlier. Good luck!

 

[PiazzoDelsays]

Piazzo, [edit] Good luck!

Hey thanks for the reply! I ended up kind of wedging it between some empty cans of soda and letting it set the first coat that way.

I've pretty much conceded that my first pep project will not be stunningly perfect, but I've decided to go through with it all the way instead of scrapping it.

I just got all my primer layers of resin done, getting ready to glass the inside in about an hour or two, and then it will be bondo work all weekend! I'm really excited and surprised at how fast the whole thing comes together.

Thanks again!

 

[Murderink]

Hey Scorpion, Do you still have the cyber sub zero pep files available?

 

[SyphonVII]

Hey oh! Bit of a long time lurker but this is my first post.

I've been working with pepakura, resin and body filler for the first time, with a Rocketeer helmet as my first project. So far it is looking devent in my opinion for a first timer, but as I get close to the final stages of adding the rivets, painting, and such.

I was curious that is there any recommended method of adding a coat of something to further protect the work I've done either before or after painting? I've been going in with spot putty and found it can be a bit delicate when dried. Such as how easy it sands away when go in to I clean it up from applying it. (perhaps I haven't let it harden enough?)

I was talking to someone I work with who suggested autobody primer with enamel. Any suggestions would be great. My apologies if such a question has already been asked, I've tried searching all over the place and haven't found any luck.

Thanks!!

 

[SyphonVII]

Edit: Double post. My mistake >.<

 

[laellee]

Hey oh! Bit of a long time lurker but this is my first post.

I've been working with pepakura, resin and body filler for the first time, with a Rocketeer helmet as my first project. So far it is looking devent in my opinion for a first timer, but as I get close to the final stages of adding the rivets, painting, and such.

I was curious that is there any recommended method of adding a coat of something to further protect the work I've done either before or after painting? I've been going in with spot putty and found it can be a bit delicate when dried. Such as how easy it sands away when go in to I clean it up from applying it. (perhaps I haven't let it harden enough?)

I was talking to someone I work with who suggested autobody primer with enamel. Any suggestions would be great. My apologies if such a question has already been asked, I've tried searching all over the place and haven't found any luck.

Thanks!!

Spot putty is typically just that, a light repair medium used for small imperfections such as knicks and pin holes created through the curing of materials. It should not be used as a strengthen-based filler, it simply doesn't have the binding agents to have any durability supporting itself.
Using a primer-sealer that is sandable can help quite a bit. Not to be confused with a simple primer, the primer-sealer works to both eliminate chemical reactions between your base and paint layers, while also giving the surface a 'tooth' to help the next layers of paint adhere to. Sandable primer-sealers also allow you to build up a layer (even heavy sprayed) to repair light (very light) imperfections that you can sand out, repeating with coats as much as necessary. Spot putty fills deep knicks, primer-sealer can be applied and then sanded out to remove scratches, light ripples (with enough layers), etc...
Long story short, there is no quick way to work through your project. I would recommend spraying with a good primer-sealer, letting it dry, and then hold it under a light source (preferably with the helmet lightly wetted with a rag) to see how it looks. Circle your areas of work with a pencil or chalk, and then concentrate on smoothing them to the degree you want. Knick: spot putty. Rough-looking surface: primer-sealer. Anything more: Body filler, preferably a feather-light bondo-type body filler, applied VERY LIGHTLY. Apply, sand, prime-seal, wet, look, repeat until it is the quality you want. It is a lot of work to do right, but if you can see ugly areas when you are just looking at a wetted primer coat, they will look ten times worse on your finishing paint coats.
I'm probably forgetting stuff, just got off work, but hopefully this helps you. Good luck.