The PEPAKURA question thread - PLEASE READ RULES IN FIRST POST!

it is possible to add text blocks. you might be able to add a "+" in the appropriate place. i'm not sure how scaling would affect it, but playing a few minutes in pep designer would tell you.

Thanks for the suggestion. Text can be used, but any scaling or inversion can disorient the points. I am just adding a custom registration design in my 3d models that pepakura will print as cuts, but are easy to recognize as registration points. Thanks again though!
 
Thanks for the suggestion. Text can be used, but any scaling or inversion can disorient the points. I am just adding a custom registration design in my 3d models that pepakura will print as cuts, but are easy to recognize as registration points. Thanks again though!
thats what i was afraid of. glad you resolved it though! how do you add the registration points?
 
thats what i was afraid of. glad you resolved it though! how do you add the registration points?

I cheated. I modeled in bullseye registration marks (like below) where I needed them, then removed the material from every other quadrant in the bullseye. I also separated a couple of seams for good measure, but it would have worked without this. Pepakura recognizes the cuts and separations, prints them on the pattern, and they are easy to spot (and not cut out). :thumbsup

Registration%20Mark%20-%201.gif
 
Hello all, I was redirected to post my questions here. To make a long story short, I am looking to build an Iron Man Mark III suit. I have no idea what to do, or how to do it. From what I understand, templates are my best friend. I'm not sure what to build the suit out of, and would love input. All this being said, I have a few burning questions:

1) What, in your opinion, is the best template for an Iron Man Mark III?

2) I'm working on a 21.5 inch iMac, what is the best way to download and print a template?

3) What should I print the template on?

4) Will I need to customize these templates to fit me?

Thank you all for your support.
 
Hello all, I was redirected to post my questions here. To make a long story short, I am looking to build an Iron Man Mark III suit. I have no idea what to do, or how to do it. From what I understand, templates are my best friend. I'm not sure what to build the suit out of, and would love input. All this being said, I have a few burning questions:

1) What, in your opinion, is the best template for an Iron Man Mark III?

2) I'm working on a 21.5 inch iMac, what is the best way to download and print a template?

3) What should I print the template on?

4) Will I need to customize these templates to fit me?

Thank you all for your support.

Ok, so. Try reading through some of the build threads to get a good idea of what you are up against, and how to go about doing it. I don't have much experience, but I can try and help.

1) I don't know who's is "best", but lots of people on here have used Dancin'Fools pep files for the MKIII. I've used them as well, they are great.

2) Sorry, can't help with this as I don't use a mac. But, you need to dowload the Pepakura program in order to view the files.

3) The recommended is cardstock. Usually 65lbs - 110lbs.

4) Yes. The pep files are made to a certain scale by the modeler/unfolder. You will need to tweek them in order for them to fit your body. And scaling is a whole other subject...
 
If you use Pepakura Designer, you can access a measurement tool by right clicking the 2d window that will allow you to see exactly how long a section will be after assembly. using this you can match the parts to your self.
 
As a new member I am not allowed to post on certain posts. I was wondering where/who commissions Iran Man Mark VII or War Machine full suits with lights.
 
Hey guys. I've gotten a little more information now about how to do this Iron Man Mark III suit. I do need some help though. I have a few more questions.

1) I am using Dancin_Fool's Mark III .pdos. I have a Mac however. I can't access Pepakura to open or customize for my size. Can somebody help me with this, or modify them for me? you can PM me if you'd like to help. I would need them in a .pdf format optimally. I can give you all my dimensions to customize and resize the template.

2) I have a fairly large head, is there one helmet template better than another to use?

Thanks guys, any help is much appreciated.
 
Hi guys, i just joined the forum like today, and im having some questions about building of iron man suit.

Basically, i made iron man mark VI suit out of foam, including the helmet, and it is also my very first suit, results are fine, just that it wasn't up to the expectations i had for it, especially the durability and the shape of the helmet.

Now i'm thinking of using the normal pep method to make a new suit, preferably the helmet first, but my biggest problem im facing is that, i live in Singapore, and this country don't sell Fiberglass, Resin and Bondo! Any substitution for these three items? Please, and suggestions are appreciated .

Or if there are alternative methods which still give a rather good product in the end, that is also really appreciated.

THANKS! Hope someone will help me asap...

Hi! You can purchase your casting materials from this company in Singapore. Good luck!

Wee Tee Tong Chemicals Pte Ltd

Tel : +65-6366-4231 Fax: +65-6366-4232

Address: No. 18, Sungei Kadut Street 3,

* * * * * * * Singapore 729149

Website: Fiberglass Singapore, Fibreglass Reinforced Plastics (FRP) raw materials and Glass fibers, Resin, Silicon Rubber, Machinery and Accessories, Wee Tee Tong Chemicals, WTT
 
just curious:

I'm attempting to make a movie accurate replica of the Mk III, so I'm using Zabana's helmet files. Has anyone else made it through the whole Zabana helmet build? The unfolding just seems extreme compared to Sharkmark or some of the other common templates.
 
So I have a weird question, what would happen if you used fiberglass cloth on both sides of a pepakura helmet?
 
So I have a weird question, what would happen if you used fiberglass cloth on both sides of a pepakura helmet?

It would be more difficult to get a good finish. Fiberglass layered on the outside of a pepakura base also rounds out corners and edges. A lot of detailing gets lost due to the fiberglass thickness as well. Your surface gets ripples and ridges, all of which have to be sanded back down or filled to make level again. Fiberglassing is also inherently messy.

It's just a lot easier (for me at least) to resin, skim with filler and sand until the piece is quality.
 
It would be more difficult to get a good finish. Fiberglass layered on the outside of a pepakura base also rounds out corners and edges. A lot of detailing gets lost due to the fiberglass thickness as well. Your surface gets ripples and ridges, all of which have to be sanded back down or filled to make level again. Fiberglassing is also inherently messy.

It's just a lot easier (for me at least) to resin, skim with filler and sand until the piece is quality.

Awesome, thank you
 
I have a slightly different opinion. I theorized that blanketing the object (assuming it has little detail) would provide a surface that evens out corners and surfaces and then makes it easier to apply filler. The technique worked out wonderful for me.

But please not that this was used to reduce most hard lines.
http://www.therpf.com/f24/shredder-tmnt-my-first-build-ever-152878/index5.html

That's a wicked shredder helmet. My current project is a Cobra Commander/Viper helms, and the only detail is in the shape and final paint. I've been kicking around the idea of two sided fiberglass to help with the shape and adding filler. I might have to test it and see what happens. Thank you for your sharing
 
Thank you for the compliment. Pepakura is a wonderful resource, but it has its flaws. Since my helmet needed to be smooth; I had to use a lot of filler everywhere I glued tabs together. So what I did was cut off the tabs where two parts meet and are supposed to be flat, curved, or otherwise look like one continuous surface. I’d then hot glue the two parts together from the underside like a weld. I did this over a nylon (typical white) cutting board. This gave me a great bond and a flat surface on the outside. Next measured and cut a fiberglass sheet to be slightly larger than the helmet. I coated the outside of the helmet in spray adhesive, let it dry. I then carefully laid the fiberglass down. Since a helmet is curved and the fabric flat, I had to create folds which I later cut off. I tried to minimize the folds. I had 4 or 5. The down side… the fabric does not like to curve, especially down. Therefore, if you have sharp (90°) angles you may need to resin it in phases or cut the fabric.

Utilizing the fiber glassing technique used in the hero tutorials for the inside is recommended to increase strength.
 
Greetings All !

I wasn't finding a pep file for what I want to create (a velociraptor). So, I browsed around until I found a free download of a 3D model.

Then, for some reason, the stupid reason, the model had a box around it and underneath it, so I had to figure out how to use the Blender software to remove that. I also used Blender to convert the file to an .obj file, which I know Pepakura Designer can read.

The next challenge seemed to be reducing the number of faces (1400). I found some freeware that did that. (But after doing that, I'm still waffling back-and-forth a bit between whether I want to use the 1400 face version or not.)

I tried a test-unfold in Pepakura Designer... and it looks like the software unfolded the whole thing into basically four big pieces, each of which spans multiple sheets of paper.

I'm not sure what I'm supposed to do, at this point, if I'd like the software to actually "chop up" the various pieces a bit more, into something where at least 80% of the pieces are smaller than an 8 1/2 x 11 page ??

Can anybody give me a bit of guidance here?


Thanks!

-= Dave =-
 
Greetings All !

I wasn't finding a pep file for what I want to create (a velociraptor). So, I browsed around until I found a free download of a 3D model.

Then, for some reason, the stupid reason, the model had a box around it and underneath it, so I had to figure out how to use the Blender software to remove that. I also used Blender to convert the file to an .obj file, which I know Pepakura Designer can read.

The next challenge seemed to be reducing the number of faces (1400). I found some freeware that did that. (But after doing that, I'm still waffling back-and-forth a bit between whether I want to use the 1400 face version or not.)

I tried a test-unfold in Pepakura Designer... and it looks like the software unfolded the whole thing into basically four big pieces, each of which spans multiple sheets of paper.

I'm not sure what I'm supposed to do, at this point, if I'd like the software to actually "chop up" the various pieces a bit more, into something where at least 80% of the pieces are smaller than an 8 1/2 x 11 page ??

Can anybody give me a bit of guidance here?


Thanks!

-= Dave =-

This thread will answer a lot of your questions.
TUTORIAL HOW TO Unfold projects in Pepakura Designer by Spartansonny
 
The Printable Armory used to have a blank MMPR helmet file, but the site has died. Does anybody happen to have that file?
 
i think i downloaded everything they have/had. do you still need it? what is your email address?
 
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