The PEPAKURA question thread - PLEASE READ RULES IN FIRST POST!

[ecd2004]

I'd also like to hear any advice concerning laying up the fiberglass so as to not deform the paper object

 

[The Schlitzie]

Re: Help with resining a pepakura object

I just got my resin and bondo in the auto section at walmart,hehe.I did a Pep mask recently and I found the resin cleaned up some of the lines in my fold work and sealed the surface nicely from moisture and stiffened it up nicely so that it wouldn't warp when pouring in the rondo.

I haven't tried laying fiberglass on the inside yet.

 

[akrembug]

Re: Help with resining a pepakura object

Cool. I buy a lot of stuff off amazon (I get free 2 day shipping) because I can save a bit of money depending on what the item is. Plus no tax on amazon. Woohoo. So I think that will be my first "stop" then maybe to Walmart to price check.

Thanks for the info.

 

[akrembug]

Ok, so I found some good bondo and some good fiberglass cloth but still am not sure on a good fiberglass resin. Any suggestions? Amazon shopping preffered.

 

[Virus]

Hi all, looking for a program that can read.7z? as i cant view them to make the hands on my iron man suit.

 

[viperr13]

Hi all, looking for a program that can read.7z? as i cant view them to make the hands on my iron man suit.

Google tells me it is a 7-Zip file it is a free program you can get 7-Zip

 

[Virus]

Google tells me it is a 7-Zip file it is a free program you can get 7-Zip

I also realized i could google it about 30 seconds ago.... :facepalm Thanks for pointing out how stupid i was yesterday lol :lol

Quick one, if you do download the .7z files from here Easy Hand Files Foam A4 - Download - 4shared

check the top of the page and get the b1 free archive opener.

 

[mrwhite]

then how can i make papercraft swords more solid by using resing or fiberglass?

i want to know the process ?

 

[Rook 3]

You're going to need to use resin (like a fiberglass resin... without the fiber in it) to coat your item on the outside. You just mix up a small batch and then brush it on in several thin coats with a brush.

Then, after it has hardened you need to sand it smooth. You may need to use Bondo style filler to fill in any irregularities in the surface. Then sand some more until you have the surface texture you want.

Clean, paint/detail, done.

It's NOT a fast process, but if you take your time the final results can be amazing.

Check out Thorsoli's... Warhammer helmet build. The one off he did. In the end it looks like he sculpted it. The end result was excellent.

 

[hkt0214]

Starting my first pep, Iron Man helm (like everyone else it seems...).

Question though, how do I go about attaching flaps that are generated "under" the model piece, if that makes sense?

I've circled what I mean in red (there are more examples of it on this part, I just simply circled a few instances):

(sorry for the big image)

 

[Deelite]

Here's a question, for those who fiberglass all of their parts. I ran into an issue on one of my costume parts, where its prone to high-stress. I FB the entire part, up to 4 layers, but after a few misteps, the entire thing just "ripped" serious. Like paper.

Does anyone have tips on how to make it more sturdy?

 

[89Forever]

first, how do you fiberglass it? do you use large fiberglass sections or lots of smaller pieces. also, i assume you just glass the inside, is this correct? have you tried vacuum bagging?

 

[Blaxmyth]

Don't panic about those pieces that seem to be printed under the other side of the fold. That happens when Pepakura can't fit two flaps on the one piece of card.
You can either use pep designer to split that piece into two separate ones, or else just carefully cut and fold the very thin flap under as normal. Usually these sorts of pieces have a very low rate of curve on them and there's not usually as much stress on that part of the pep.
I usually just fold it under and spot on a small amount of good quality PVA.
Little tip that i learned the hard way - use builder's PVA, preferably the type which has 'aliphatic cross-bonding' somewhere on the label - it is much stronger and way quicker than the school grade stuff - and apply it with a toothpick, all you need is a couple of drops every few millimetres.

Starting my first pep, Iron Man helm (like everyone else it seems...).

Question though, how do I go about attaching flaps that are generated "under" the model piece, if that makes sense?

 

[laellee]

I have a question that hopefully someone has solved? I've built a few models for pepakura unfolding, and sometimes there are spots where I would like to add guide marks in the pepakura file that print but will not be cut out. As an example, I have a boot model that needs a pin threaded through the back section. Let's say I want a 1/4" pin to fit through here. I can't just put a 1/4" hole in the model, because when it is rescaled for a different person, that hole would of course change size too. Is there a simple way to put something like registration cross hairs at those places instead, and then the holes can be added after the piece has been put together?
My solution up to now has been to add the holes and just specify not to cut them out when building. Is there a better way to do this?
Thanks in advance.

 

[harleyquinn525]

Has anyone found a pattern for elfen lied? I really want to make Lucy's helmet.

 

[Deelite]

first, how do you fiberglass it? do you use large fiberglass sections or lots of smaller pieces. also, i assume you just glass the inside, is this correct?

Inside and both (large and small)

have you tried vacuum bagging?

what's vacuum baggin

 

[Rook 3]

first, how do you fiberglass it? do you use large fiberglass sections or lots of smaller pieces. also, i assume you just glass the inside, is this correct? have you tried vacuum bagging?

Resin the outside, then resin the inside and apply the actual resin
coated glass fiber.

Fiber cloth is easier to cut and control, but chopped glass fiber gives you a
stronger finished piece in my minimal experience.. however, you
end up with more strands that can poke you if you used the chopped stuff
instead of the fiberglass cloth.

I second the question, what's "vacuum bagging?"

 

[89Forever]

vacuum bagging is a method used in carbon fiber, but can be applied (and i assume it was long before the invention of carbon fiber) fiberglass.

basically you take the part and enclose it in a bag (slightly more complex than this) and draw a vacuum. this compresses the fiberglass layers so they are more compact. it also removes any air and reduces the amount of resin used. unfiberglassed resin is brittle and hard. fiberglass is obviously strong and flexible, which is why the two make a great combination. most of us just slap the two together and it works fine, but there's obviously a project that needs more support. most projects should use a roller to push out any air and excess resin. (no i don't you a roller either, lol)

totally unrelated to pepakura or costume/prop making... i learn a lot from WJP0004 on youtube. he does all kinds of fabrication and repairs on fiberglass and carbon fiber.

 

[89Forever]

Is there a simple way to put something like registration cross hairs at those places instead, and then the holes can be added after the piece has been put together?

it is possible to add text blocks. you might be able to add a "+" in the appropriate place. i'm not sure how scaling would affect it, but playing a few minutes in pep designer would tell you.

 

[89Forever]

Fiber cloth is easier to cut and control, but chopped glass fiber gives you a stronger finished piece in my minimal experience.. however, you end up with more strands that can poke you if you used the chopped stuff instead of the fiberglass cloth.

i have to agree with this, but i find saturating the fiber to be much more difficult. it is really good with the vacuum bagging technique though.