The PEPAKURA question thread - PLEASE READ RULES IN FIRST POST!

I had problems using "krazy glue gel" and an off-brand superglue. The paper was glossy, do I need to use matt/textured paper, or is it the glue?

I don't like the Krazy glue brand glue. My best results have come from Loctite super glue. The brush in bottle type is my absolute favorite because it makes less mess while working. You can find it in the office supplies section of Walmart.

Glossy paper is also a NO-NO. Good standard 110lb heavy cardstock is what you want.
 
Can't find the zipper mode in the free version of pep, and the Kinkos I called to print larger sheets were useless, and can only go up to A3. At some point I want to take a shot at a Dalek, so I'm going to have to get the hang on printing large pieces!

I did a test on paper of printing out single pieces that print across multiple pages. There is that gap between lines where the object hits the margin, so it will take extra work to join them back up, but at least no "information" is lost.
 
Any Atomic Robo pep files out there?

Hi everyone a good friend of mine who loves Atomic Robo has asked me if I know anyone with Atomic Robo pepakura files, anyone able to help with this?
 
HI all,
im new here and new to pep. just started my ironman mark III helmet. going good so far hit a couple walls on the eyes hopefully i can make it they way i want in the bondo stage. im addicted to this just cant stop was up all weekend cutting out the parts was so excited when i could start assembly. if all goes well im going to do the entire suit. so heres my progress so far please feel free to comment and let me know what i can do to do even better.
 
Hey everyone,
Is there anyone who knows how to and would be willing to create a .obj file for me fro a 3-d model. If not that is not how it is done could someone take a model and unfold it pepakura for me? I am trying to build the Glass Helmet from Skyrim.
 
I was wondering, is there any way to "pre treat" the card after cutting but before assembly? Not a full 321 coat, but just something to make it a little more solid? I'm worried that my K9 build might not quite hold it's weight/shape during construction.

I was watching Stealth's tutorials on pep assembly (great videos) and one of his pieces, an iron man shoe, looks very solid even before fibreglassing and the 321 treatment.
 
If you have large, unsupported flat areas (as with K9, I imagine) I find that being inventive with some sort of bracing goes a long way. Foam core board like you'd mount a poster on makes fantastic support material. It's cheap, strong, light, rigid, cuts easily, and can be adhered with just about any glue you like. I've used it to make everything from small corner braces to full-size backing sheets on large objects.

Alternatively, you could probably make the bulk of your K9 out of the foam board itself using the Pepakura pieces as a template. :)
 
Thanks, Rick - great advice. I wanted to make sure I wasn't missing a step as the 110lb cardstock feels a little less rigid than I'd expected. I think I'll reinforce a couple of the bigger pieces with core board on the inside just to make it less of a balancing act.


David
 
Anyone else hate bondo? Because I've worked with it before and I keep getting these "pot holes." Anyone have advise on reducing the pot holes?
 
Anyone else hate bondo? Because I've worked with it before and I keep getting these "pot holes." Anyone have advise on reducing the pot holes?
Use something better than Bondo. Evercoat's Z-Grip is an inexpensive, HIGH quality body filler that doesn't get nearly as many bubbles as Bondo. It's also much nicer to sand.

Another tip is to mix and get your bondo in place as quickly as possible so that it doesn't clump up. You want to stop spreading it BEFORE it starts to get gritty. I personally stop spreading the moment I notice the first stages of grit, then after a few minutes wait (usually a couple swigs of beer or whatever drink you have handy to keep hydrated) I switch to a body grating file (looks like a long skinny cheese grater) to cut down the high spots while it's still rubbery.
 
Anyone else hate bondo? Because I've worked with it before and I keep getting these "pot holes." Anyone have advise on reducing the pot holes?


Usually the holes in the Bondo are caused by air pockets getting stuck in the bondo when stirring the mixture, to reduce the air bubbles try not to stir up the Bondo and hardner, look on Youtube there are some good tutorials how to mix the Bondo, you want to layer it on top of itself to avoid taking in to much air, as for fixing the little holes that are already in the Bondo after sanding, your best bet is to get some glazing putty also called spot putty filler, dab the stuff on any pin holes or imperfections in the Bondo, let it dry and sand it off with some fine (I use 320 Grit) sandpaper, it sands like sanding drywall spackle, so its easy to clean up, you can pick it up where they sell bondo, it comes it tubes and its orange when you spread it on piece your working on
 
What is the standard scaling size in pepakura for armor. I believe it is somewhere around 1.####### or something like that. I have captured a model and unfolded it in pepakura but I guess its different for every model. I am just looking for a starting point before I start printing out all these pieces over and over.
 
In terms of pinholes left by Bondo / Body filler etc, Im in the process of :

1. Glassing the pep
2. Applying 1 Layer of body filler
3. Sanding the filler back with a Palm Belt sander / Other sanders for smaller areas...

4. And, Instead of reapplying layer after layer of filler, Going ahead and layering Apoxie sculpt straight of the sanded surface. The Apoxie tends to have little or no pinholes and can be applied ready for 240+ Grit paper once it has set. Basically saves allllllllllllll the effort of sanding filler after filler.

Ill let you guys know how it goes !!! :p
 
I did a test on paper of printing out single pieces that print across multiple pages. There is that gap between lines where the object hits the margin, so it will take extra work to join them back up, but at least no "information" is lost.
It's like Dave says, Pepakura never prints all the way to the edge, there's a border area that makes allowance for printer borders.
I managed to build the body of a portal turret with very large pieces by printing across multiple A3 pages i.e.
5186257524_d40363d8e7_z.jpg


The biggest problem with this is when you have to join the sides together, it can make tabs that lay on the joins difficult to handle and to fold, especially if like me you use 300gsm card and end up with a 600gsm tab. :lol
 
Batman Files Help?

hi i am having trouble finding some Batman Pep Files I've found the head files but had no luck with the armor anyone know a link or thread??

thanks in advance
 
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Re: Batman Files Help?

Batman1.jpg


So Far Ive Found the Following
Mask'
Left Shin
Left Thigh
Left Side Of The back And
.......Looking......................

Left/Right Biceps
Left/Right Forearm
Front Chest Armor
 
Hi everybody. I had a question regarding .PDO files that have the entire suits of armor in them. I had been looking around for some Saint Seiya files, but could only find ones that had the entire armor. How can those be separated into its individual pieces?
 
Mass Effect Fem-Shep Template

Ok i'm trying to make this easier because there are a few different Mass Effect Costume threads going but non specifically for Fem-Shep. So here we go...

I don't have photoshop and I need a FEMALE armor template... the ONLY one I've found has to have photoshop to download the templates. Seeing as to how i'm not paying a ridiculous amount of money for something I will probably only make the one time.. I just don't see that happening ;) So... if SOMEONE out there can please help me out with a template for Fem-Shep Armor I would be grateful. Thanks in advanced for any postings pointing me in the right way!
 
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