The PEPAKURA question thread - PLEASE READ RULES IN FIRST POST!

Was adding this here, and somewhat answers Magneto's question.

But ive come up with a method making pep solid (glass, and filler) that is completely safe and non-toxic. But do note its not exactly the cheapest method.

From what ive learnt / questions ive asked people with experience with the following materials, the combination of the two would be great on PEP/

Im just going to shorten this but ;

Glassing : Bunyan films Aqua glass (with their cloth), initial cloth and resin layer inside, with 2 extra coats of resin.

Filler - Apoxie sculpt (I found out recently this stuff is actually not toxic, im sure others have used this stuff. Its not the cheapest material around for the quantity you get, but since your making a flat surface all over it does go quite a way + It sets very solid.
One of the biggest advantages is that it is in putty form - It has a 3 hour set time which allows you to get the surface flat and smooth as possible to minimise waste when sanding back (If you do a good job of apply it, you can pretty much go straight to the later sanding stages).

Aqua glass : Aqua-Resin Prices
Apoxie sculpt : Apoxie Sculpt


(MAGNETO = USE THE APOXIE SCULPT - work it just like clay, but it will set solid for you ;) )
 
Hey guys Im making my first pep project and im getting a little frustrated trying to get the bondo to be smooth Im going to buy a sander in a little bit, but I wanted to know if there is still hope for this piece if I add more bondo and sand or if I should just make a new one? I decided just to pain it to see how it would look but did not liked it and started sanding it again.
 
The key to Bondo is to put it on in thin coats, and in small areas at a time. As you've probably noticed, it's a royal ***** to sand once it's fully cured, and the thicker you put it on the more sanding you have to do.

It's hard to gauge from one picture, but I'd say your chest piece is probably salvageable. Use some more Bondo sparingly and start leveling off some of the worst areas. Work slowly and methodically, and fill in the deepest divots one at a time if you have to. It's a loooooot of work getting this stuff to come out right, but it'll come if you're patient. :)
 
as a happy accident i ran out of my quick dry glue and started using mighty mendit. Mighty mendit bonds well / dries realitively quickly and remains glexible when dry.
 
The key to Bondo is to put it on in thin coats, and in small areas at a time. As you've probably noticed, it's a royal ***** to sand once it's fully cured, and the thicker you put it on the more sanding you have to do.

It's hard to gauge from one picture, but I'd say your chest piece is probably salvageable. Use some more Bondo sparingly and start leveling off some of the worst areas. Work slowly and methodically, and fill in the deepest divots one at a time if you have to. It's a loooooot of work getting this stuff to come out right, but it'll come if you're patient. :)


Thanks for the tips! I got me a sander and some spot putty and it looks like i might be able to save the piece!
 
i made this:
really-low-budget-green-ranger-build-now-imag0632.jpg-84475d1329583319

out of pepakura, with paper mache and dry wall compound

cost me 30 bucks including paint and primer.
id say you can make anything if you put some work into it. paper mache route will probably take you longer tho, resin/filler is way faster, and sturdier too.

Ahhhhh! Still a man after my own heart! Just because a material is specifically designed for one purpose, doesn't mean it can't be used for another! Remember, I built my stormtrooper lid for less than $15. Nice build EOS! Sorry we didn't get to see more of it....hope you are well, BTW:)

@Bhasbach: the only concern from my personal experience is, that unless you sand the hell out of it to take of as much bondo as possible, before putting more on, it can end up pretty heavy so like Rick says, thin coats and small areas. Sand in between coats as this helps the next layer go on smoother.
 
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Hey folks,

New guy here who wants to try his hand at doing some Pepakura helmets. My 1st problem with starting is my printer.

My Inkjet does up 58lb paper and my laser printer only up to 43lb since both roll the paper from a front loading tray. Sadly, neither have the ability to feed from the back.

I'll give them both a try with 110lb paper, but if they don't work I was if anyone had suggestions for a cheap, basic printer that *will* print on 110lb without problems.

There's always the "print on light weight paper then attach to thicker" method, but I'd rather avoid the extra work if possible.

Thanks!
 
Hey folks,

New guy here who wants to try his hand at doing some Pepakura helmets. My 1st problem with starting is my printer.

My Inkjet does up 58lb paper and my laser printer only up to 43lb since both roll the paper from a front loading tray. Sadly, neither have the ability to feed from the back.

I'll give them both a try with 110lb paper, but if they don't work I was if anyone had suggestions for a cheap, basic printer that *will* print on 110lb without problems.

There's always the "print on light weight paper then attach to thicker" method, but I'd rather avoid the extra work if possible.

Thanks!

what do you mean feed from the back? my printer does frontload, and its no problem whatsoever (infact its an inkjet)
 
what do you mean feed from the back?

Printers that have the stack of paper sticking up in the air on the back of printer, rather than a front load tray common these days. It didn't have to roll the paper 180 to print on and usually liked the heavier cardstock better if I recall.

my printer does frontload, and its no problem whatsoever (infact its an inkjet)

Well, it's not the inkjet part, it's the 180 turn the paper needs to do inside the printer. I'm gonna pick up a pack of 110lb paper today and see if either my printers can handle it though. If you're has no problem here's hoping my won't either.

Thanks!
 
Terror Dog Head Pep

Hello all, been cutting my teeth on some small armor builds, practicing for a big Iron Man Mark VI build. Was wondering if anyone has attempted to mock up a pepakura file for a terror dog head? Looking to do this in resin and fiberglass to mount on a Harley Road King Fairing with LED eyes. I've been scouring the web and the forums, but no luck yet. Thanks!
 
Hey folks,

New guy here who wants to try his hand at doing some Pepakura helmets. My 1st problem with starting is my printer.

My Inkjet does up 58lb paper and my laser printer only up to 43lb since both roll the paper from a front loading tray. Sadly, neither have the ability to feed from the back.

I'll give them both a try with 110lb paper, but if they don't work I was if anyone had suggestions for a cheap, basic printer that *will* print on 110lb without problems.

There's always the "print on light weight paper then attach to thicker" method, but I'd rather avoid the extra work if possible.

Thanks!

Why not simply print your pages and take to a print shop for a professional reprint onto cardstock of your choice?
 
Why not simply print your pages and take to a print shop for a professional reprint onto cardstock of your choice?

I've considered that but I'd rather skip the extra work/money and try and do it myself.

But I might have hit jackpot. Got a spare laser printer at work that has a straight through paper feed. Soon as my coworker gets back from lunch I'm off to pick up some paper for a test.
 
I still say your printer WLAN probably print on 180 g paper. My printer is fairly old and crappy, and it still works no problem
 
Mass Effect 3 pepakura files

Hi. Does anyone have pepakura files for Mass Effect? I'm looking for the female Shepard armor. Thanks!
 
So a crisis for nothing. :) My laser printed 100lb paper with no fussing at all.

Now it's time to get cutting and glueing.
 
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