Limited Run The Orville Pistol MAJOR UPDATE & LAST CALL

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JOATRASH FX

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
...not trying to be a PIA, but....what's the word on progress to getting kits shipped?

-tnx,
Jeff
I just got the programmed boards from the coder so now comes the sorting and packing. Hope to have them shipped this coming weekend but I have some family commitments that might push it into next week. So, a couple weeks behind what I was aiming for but they are going out asap because I need to be free and clear to go full-steam on the next couple of projects.


 

JOATRASH FX

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Small update. All the parts (including the electronics) have now been separated, sorted and packed. Still in the process of packing into shipping boxes, but I'm aiming to get them out and into the mail in the next few days.
 

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JOATRASH FX

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
They are in the mail! Give 'em at least 2 weeks before you start haunting the mailbox. (They might get there sooner, but it can take longer too... especially to Canada for some reason.)
 
If you don't mind answering....what Zip code are they shipping from and what carrier and type of shipping? This'll give us an idea what to expect. :)

-many thanks,
Jeff
 

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JOATRASH FX

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
If you don't mind answering....what Zip code are they shipping from and what carrier and type of shipping? This'll give us an idea what to expect. :)

-many thanks,
Jeff
Shipping from Sweden by priority airmail, so the zip is kinda irrelevant, haha. It'll come by USPS or Canada Post I think. The 'official' time is ten business days, which usually holds up, but I've had it double that. These boxes were a little bigger than the usual ones I use and the electronics might make customs scanning slower. : )

Is there tracking information available to us? Thank you for seeing this project through!
I'm trying a new system where I get tracking on 'random' packages if several go out at the same time. That way I get a general idea of when they start arriving and shipping is cheaper for everyone. (And to keep it fair, unless someone is paying for the tracking specifically on their package, I have to keep it to myself.) Tracking is generally a false sense of security in my experience. I've had tracked packages get stuck more often than those without, and they don't travel separately anyway.
 

Kokanee

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Yes, in the vast frozen wasteland that is Canada, our postal system is horribly inefficient..
 

JOATRASH FX

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Yes, in the vast frozen wasteland that is Canada, our postal system is horribly inefficient..
It seems to get the job done... just takes longer and is fairly expensive! I was going to get a Proton Pack shell from Canada once and the shipping was several hundred dollars, compared to something like $100-150 from the US.

Ahh...right! Sweden. I knew that. Really, I did.... :oops:

-Jeff
I thought everyone knew at this point that my stuff gets made in Viking Land. :)
 

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...got the much anticipated delivery from the post office today!

Here are two photos showing the parts all laid out. This will make a great addition to my Sci-Fi laser/phaser collection.....superb work!

Definitely time to review the build/creation thread to figure out how this thing gets put together!

Joatrash - any advice on the best way to do the clean-up of these parts? Also, is there a wiring diagram for the electronics?

-tnx,
Jeff

Orville - 1.jpg


Orville - 2.jpg
 

JOATRASH FX

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Joatrash - any advice on the best way to do the clean-up of these parts? Also, is there a wiring diagram for the electronics?

-tnx,
Jeff
Huzzah! Thanks for letting me know it arrived safe.

Wiring diagram attached. Note: ONLY use terminals on the "long" side of both boards. The diagram is not a 1:1 image. Also, you might want to remove the programming pins from the Arduino (small board) to save space. Also, I've searched for ages (and wasted a lot of $ trying to find good wire and trying to understand gauge sizes, insulation and so on, but it seems I can't wrap my head around it. The wire I have supplied is OK, but delicate, since it's only got one solid core. If you have an old USB cable lying around, gutting that might be preferable.)

Note: the hollowed out areas of the buttons should be filled with epoxy or something. Also, some buttons have very shallow "indents" on the underside- for the small buttons this indicates they should be towards the front, and one of the two the larger buttons it indicates the foremost button. (If that makes any sense.)

Use 400+ grit so sand... lightly. You can use rougher on the "support nub" leftovers. Use a scalpel to carefully cut the remaining nubs off the rubber grips. You CAN sand the grips... even though they are rubberized. (No idea how it works... it just does, defying the laws of physics Ed!)

IF there is any resin residue anywhere, use rubbing alcohol (isopropyl / IPA) to clean.

I have supplied a M4 screw for the buttstock. Tap the hold SLOWLY and VERY carefully.

Glue with 2-part epoxy for best results. Use hot glue to isolate terminals in the boards once soldered. (I used epoxy, but hot glue works too.)

Note: the two square "guide nubs" on top of the muzzle need to be filed down. A tiiiiiny bit of shrinkage during printing stops them from lining up perfectly.

Hmm... I think those are the important bits. If anything is unclear, just ask. (Maybe ask in the build thread since that will not get deleted.)

Use some grease on the trigger. Seat the trigger with an "underbite" (sticks out more at the bottom). Also, when you glue the trigger assembly test, test and test the fit and movement. Then test some more. This is one of the more fiddly bits and it's easy to get it slightly misaligned, which might cause the trigger to stick.
 

Attachments

Thanks for the detailed and (very) quick reply!

I've already cut away all the 'nubs' and did some trial fitting. ...just *had* to get an initial look-n-feel for what the PM-44 was like while holding it in my hand. :)

Glad you mentioned the 2 square nubs on top of the muzzle, after fiddling with the parts for a bit I had already tentatively decided to chop them off to make assembly easier and didn't see that anything would be lost....plus it allows the top and bottom of the barrel (?) to align better with the grip core.

Many thanks for the wiring diagram. I have multi-strand wire that's (I think) 22 gage which should be perfect for this. Oh....button assignment - can you tell me how you mapped S1, S2, and S3 to the 4 buttons on the top keypad? S4 clearly gos to the trigger. :)

Once again....many thanks!

Jeff
 

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