The Mummy Hamunaptra key 3.0

TomVDJ

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Just a remark: I noticed that on most keys out there, when closed, the middle points up a bit instead of being completely flat. It would be great if it would close flat.

This guy managed to get his key almost completely flat when closed, but he doesn't use a springloaded mechanism, but som guiding rails in the side of the flaps to mechanically open and close them. Pretty clever, but it leaves you with inaccurate diagonal lines in the sides of the flaps. On the other hand I just love how the key closes completely and the flaps don't stay a but up:


See the difference between his "mechanical" version and the springloaded version when closed:

key.jpg
 

Jintosh

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Just a remark: I noticed that on most keys out there, when closed, the middle points up a bit instead of being completely flat. It would be great if it would close flat.

This guy managed to get his key almost completely flat when closed, but he doesn't use a springloaded mechanism, but som guiding rails in the side of the flaps to mechanically open and close them. Pretty clever, but it leaves you with inaccurate diagonal lines in the sides of the flaps. On the other hand I just love how the key closes completely and the flaps don't stay a but up:


See the difference between his "mechanical" version and the springloaded version when closed:

Very valid point. Let me give it some thought.
By the way, I gave Paul Pape my initial non-opening version of my Hamunaptra Key files, and that's how he got started making them in the first place. He based his design on MY design.
 
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Jintosh

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Update.

I am attempting to totally redesign the lock. I have a very creative idea but it'll take a bit of time to redesign and get a new material for the lock itself. If it works, it'll still be true to the appearance of my original design, (no weird groove marks) but should close completely. I guess necessity is the Mother of invention. I would not have thought of doing it this way if I wasn't asked. ;)
 
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Jintosh

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Since there may be 3 options, STL files, kit, and assembled design, I will say that the redesign should make it easier to 3D print the bottom half, specifically. If this works the way I want it, it will simplify the design even further. My original goal was to take something that had more than 50 moving parts (Jaded Monk's design) and simplify it so it could be 3D printed and have much less parts. Improving the efficiency and functionality beyond that is icing on the cake.
 

Jaded Monk

Well-Known Member
Since there may be 3 options, STL files, kit, and assembled design, I will say that the redesign should make it easier to 3D print the bottom half, specifically. If this works the way I want it, it will simplify the design even further. My original goal was to take something that had more than 50 moving parts (Jaded Monk's design) and simplify it so it could be 3D printed and have much less parts. Improving the efficiency and functionality beyond that is icing on the cake.
I think "over 50 moving parts" might be overstating a little, but fair.
At the time I I produced mine, home 3D printers were in their infancy and could not produce satisfactory surface textures or bearing surfaces, so good luck!
 

Jintosh

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Sorry if I overstated. :)

Top and bottom move, and each 8 flaps move, which is 10 parts right there. Plus, anything you do to each flap is x8. So, even if you only had 4 moving parts per flap, that's 32 plus 10, for 42 pieces. Was I that far off?
 

Jintosh

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
--update--

I am pursuing an alternate lock material after the first one didn't work out. I learned from the first, so I am sure the second is the right material.
 

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