(The GOLDEN GUN/with DESIGN and Print modifications - DONE) 3D Printing and just creating "stuff"

propmaster2000

Sr Member
At this particular stage of my life, with a new found hobby, 3D printing and plenty of time to waist,
it's never to late to create some unique stuff.

A while back, I thought I would design and print what I call the VAYPO (Vape and Hypo) made to
resemble the Voyager Hypospray from Star Trek to hold a small "starter pen" electronic vape.

This is the result of the only VAYPO device:

IMG_0175.JPG

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Of course me being who I am, I wanted to create another one of a kind vape holder using the
Iconic character from Classic Star Trek as the inspiration -

The unique, first ever, one of a kind:

NOMAD - VAPEMAD (not to scale) close approximation.
Still have to add all the outer details and holes in the side panels,
but you may be able to see what the holder is. :)
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nomad vape small pic.jpg


Too much time on my hands :)

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I decided to try my visionary, artistic licenses at 3D printing the DS flame gun with a few changes to the interior workings.
I am still in the test, dry run/mock-up of my some what, working EFX.
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This will be more of a mechanical effect (with no sound efx's) using LED's as well.
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Can't really say much about the effect itself, until I get the chance to see if it works to my liking
and I still have a way's to go (but here is a quick picture w/Xray view).
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flame gun 1.jpg

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Recently, I became a bit obsessed with the Logan's Run Deep Sleep Flame pistol and have read many
posts on the subject (here and else where).
Early in this tread, I mentioned that I was in the process of 3D printing my own version using LEDs
as the "flash" point to replicate the flame.
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Then after reading much on the current availability of a "working flame" version and that there was none
to be found these days (except those that have one from the early years), I thought I would work on an actual flaming version myself.
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I have a ways to go on designing a front "nozzle cage" that will allow a discharge of gas that is not directly aimed at the cage, but just past it.
I still have to work on the details of the ignition of the gas, and thinking about using high voltage discharge points (at each flame nozzle openings) from the electronics of a stun-gun.
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Here is a youtube-video of the gas flame and test of my "gas release valve" set up.
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I am still in the experimental stage of the development, so won't go in to the design details at this time.
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There is plenty of information on the original pistol that will show the inner workings of the
flaming system..
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Yesterday, I created this little hand held helper to give me a bit more leverage when removing the cap
on water and coke bottles. It was printed using my other helper the ENDER3.
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I guess I am going to have to venture on without getting much more information on the length of the barrel.
I currently have electronics on order that will fit in the handle as well as the new trigger mech. design.
So until I receive the order, I will have to put the trigger design and circuit on hold.
I did manage to guesstimate the barrel to be about 13.25" long (give or take).
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(for reference)
ENDER 3 - 3d Printed
My custom designed version of the Logan's Run - Sandman DS Pistol.
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Since getting in to the world of 3D printing, many times I've found myself looking for things to design and print.
This item is know different.
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Over the years of prop making I have collected extra parts for future builds which I may or may not ever get to.
I have in my collection many small DC gear motors, servos and steppers.
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Recently, I read a post here of a 3D printed B9 Robot build using the ENDER 3 (Full Sized LIS Robot) and find it is a good example
of how well this little printer does and has given me the inspiration for my next print.
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I too have the ENDER 3, so with my limited design skills, I'm always looking to improve my own skill set and for things to print
which could use the small gear motors I have and the B9 antennas was a good example and a small enough challenge.
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B9.jpg

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The rotating antenna (ears) on either side of the "head" rotate (not sure how they did it back then, since I don't
think they had tiny DC gear motors), this would be an interesting challenge for me.
The motor holders would have to be just big enough to contain the DC motor and not be too large, taking them outside of
the original size.
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I wanted to design the holder so that if a motor does go bad, I could replace it fairly easy. I know that if the motor was "locked"
in to the holder (glued) and someday needed replacing, I could just break away the holder to get to the motor and just print a new one.
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In the old days, that wasn't a luxury for prop makers, so things had to be designed to be able to complete repairs with out damaging
anything.
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Side Note: If anyone is considering getting a small starter 3D printer, the ENDER 3 gets my vote :)
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So, here is my design and print of the B9 "ear" holder and motor assembly:
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Primered before paint.
The motor will be secured in place using a 4-40 screw down the mounting tube.
I printed in a small pilot hole to be drilled and tapped after the two main pieces are glued together.
The screw will clamp the motor in place from the inside.
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IMG_0685 sm.jpg

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Modified upper cone shape: Smaller diameter
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More things to come I'm sure. :)
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A few days ago I came across a thread that was started by another member skiffy
showing his 3D print of the Babylon 5 PPG pistol. In that thread are examples of the
knurl (checkered effect) grips that turned out great. So, I wanted to see if my little E3
could handle the task of printing them as well.
Thanks skiffy for letting me post a couple pictures. :)
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It seemed to do well, so I figure I would print the entire pistol, so I started a separate thread
showing the results of my endeavor.
Not sure if I will find the time to do it, but ya gotta start somewhere.
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I printed one face of the grip itself standing up and in one piece:
(I will do the other side as well).
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IMG_0689 sm.jpg

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Then attach it to the center part of the handle which is hollow.
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The Medallion will be the number "5".
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I modified the main body model to be printed with the panels separated, so cleanup and painting will be cleaner.
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Here is a quick (not to clear) video of my efforts to slice up the render.

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