RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Hmmm. So photobucket officially sucks now. That's too bad.
Yup, look, I understand it's a free service and I don't have a problem with pop up ads or even them asking me to pay, but this is obviously a ploy to hold people that use the service for Etsy, Ebay and other commerce sites for ransom. Like I said before, $400 per year to "unlock" is ridiculous!Hmmm. So photobucket officially sucks now. That's too bad.
Same thing just happened to me. Sux as just finished a thread in general modeling of a sea mine fireplace i just built with heaps of pics now all gone.Yup, look, I understand it's a free service and I don't have a problem with pop up ads or even them asking me to pay, but this is obviously a ploy to hold people that use the service for Etsy, Ebay and other commerce sites for ransom. Like I said before, $400 per year to "unlock" is ridiculous!
I just spent about an hour pulling down the relatively few linked photos in this thread and using the RPF's direct upload so the pix will be here forever. I've got dozens of build threads here and elsewhere going back more than ten years. Oy!
Is there a place us laymen can go to into like Burbank and pick up stands like this? I would love to put some of my builds on professional stands.For the model mount I used a tube with a 5/8" inner diameter. This allows the use of a 5/8" rod as the display stand. This was also a size we commonly used "back in the day" for model mounts as it allowed the use of standard stage grip equipment, which is based around a 5/8" diameter pin or pipe, to hold models for construction, painting and filming. I have a variety of grip equipment that proves helpful now as a model stand.
They're not roto cast, just pressure cast in a two part mold. There's no big secret but I guess years of pouring resin creates a bit of an instinct as to what works and what doesn't. That's not to sound flippant, I'm really not sure what the trick is. One thing is to make sure not to mix too much air into the resin and I do over fill a bit, though not a lot. Since I only needed four castings I did not set up the mold with a fill channel and sprues like I did with the shrouds. Basically I pour the resin into the female side of the mold, then lower the male core side of the mold in displacing the extract resin. Then into the pressure tank. Every mold is different and has different quirks. The first couple of castings had bad bubbles around the rim until I got the hang of this mold.Dave,
When you cast these nozzles, do you "Roto-Cast" them, or just "Pressure-Cast" them? The reason I ask is: they look flawless, and I can't achieve the same results when I do the circular Payhauler nozzles with a similar two-part mold, so wondering if it's the lack of a roto-casting setup, or just the lack of 30 years experience in the industry
Is there a place us laymen can go to into like Burbank and pick up stands like this? I would love to put some of my builds on professional stands.
Hey Dave, Pod is looking sweet ! I wanted to ask if you know how much you would have to scale up your drawing to match the studio model. Maybe a percentage upscale ? Do we know if you can still get the original buckets ? Thanks,Royal - the only progress recently on this project has been drawing laying out the styrene plating patterns and acquiring kit parts. The Y-Wing Project has been taking all my time in the Shop.
Pro Mod - Here is a full scale drawing of the hull shapes based on the shells that were formed in the buckets. Hope this helps. Although it would be pretty expensive, if you want to cover the cost I'll ship you some 5 quart buckets...
NOTE - THIS DRAWING IS BASED ON CONTEMPORARY 5 QUART BUCKETS WHICH ARE MOST LIKELY NOT THE SAME SIZE AND PROPORTION AS THOSE USED ON THE ORIGINAL MODEL.