Dannicelook
Well-Known Member
Sorry but its not tjack thread... Btw i did a pretty good job with his DIY kit... Still waiting for a ken's combo file anyway
) ill post as soon as i got them!
The Amazing Spider-man 2 - 3D Print Files/Pattern - FREE
- Thread starter kenlandrum
- Start date
Sorry but its not tjack thread... Btw i did a pretty good job with his DIY kit... Still waiting for a ken's combo file anyway
) ill post as soon as i got them!
The New Blood
Well-Known Member
Here is my crack at it, to make it less intimidating. Not sure how to properly scale it.
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Thanks man, But i don't know what sandpaper and paint to use.
Octus
New Member
for the sand paper, you wanna kind of work through the grit. which means you start with a lower number(on the back of sandpaper there is a number)and then you work to a higher number. look at a few different types and give them a feel with your hand, you want something that can take off the extra material without gouging too deep. after you take off some stuff you get a higher grit(number)and smooth everything out, next is the finisher which is usually a pretty high number and you cant feel too much grit on it. this will make it really smooth.
for the paint i usually paint with model acrylics from a brand callled Tamiya. OR i just get really cheap acrylic paint from an art store like Michaels(usually around $1.88 a piece in the U.S.) The trick to painting is to make sure you spray a base coat(its usually a grey color) and make sure arent going too thick and letting layers dry out in between coats. you can use water to thin out most acrylics, you want it be about the consistency of milk or even just a bit thicker. if you dont let it dry properly when you go back to paint another layer you usually end up pulling up the last layer and getting it a little clumpy. Acrylics dry pretty quickly, roughly around 15-20 mins in 75%Fahrenheit. i usually put on a show in the background, paint a little, watch the show for awhile, and then remember im painting and go back to it.
I dont like to use enamel model paint, because on some plastics it never feels like it drys out and just stays sticky/tacky.
you can also use spray paints, but i usually prefer to hand paint items. just make sure its a product that is good to use on plastics if you are using plastic, metal for metal, etc.
Also, when you are done with the painting(even if you hand paint it) if it doesnt look shiny or glossy enough they have spray paints that are clear glossy. whenever you spray anything i recommend being about 5-8 inches back, and have a test subject to spray on first to make sure your can isnt clogged or spraying out clumps.
hope that helps
- - - Updated - - -
RAD!! and welcome to the forum
for the sand paper, you wanna kind of work through the grit. which means you start with a lower number(on the back of sandpaper there is a number)and then you work to a higher number. look at a few different types and give them a feel with your hand, you want something that can take off the extra material without gouging too deep. after you take off some stuff you get a higher grit(number)and smooth everything out, next is the finisher which is usually a pretty high number and you cant feel too much grit on it. this will make it really smooth.
for the paint i usually paint with model acrylics from a brand callled Tamiya. OR i just get really cheap acrylic paint from an art store like Michaels(usually around $1.88 a piece in the U.S.) The trick to painting is to make sure you spray a base coat(its usually a grey color) and make sure arent going too thick and letting layers dry out in between coats. you can use water to thin out most acrylics, you want it be about the consistency of milk or even just a bit thicker. if you dont let it dry properly when you go back to paint another layer you usually end up pulling up the last layer and getting it a little clumpy. Acrylics dry pretty quickly, roughly around 15-20 mins in 75%Fahrenheit. i usually put on a show in the background, paint a little, watch the show for awhile, and then remember im painting and go back to it.
I dont like to use enamel model paint, because on some plastics it never feels like it drys out and just stays sticky/tacky.
you can also use spray paints, but i usually prefer to hand paint items. just make sure its a product that is good to use on plastics if you are using plastic, metal for metal, etc.
Also, when you are done with the painting(even if you hand paint it) if it doesnt look shiny or glossy enough they have spray paints that are clear glossy. whenever you spray anything i recommend being about 5-8 inches back, and have a test subject to spray on first to make sure your can isnt clogged or spraying out clumps.
hope that helps
Thanks man, thanks. Your help will certainly be very useful for me. I will follow your steps and soon put more pictures here.
Thank you!
Octus
New Member
thats what we are all here for buddy
glad i could help, and im really looking forward to seeing how awesome your suit turns out. just take it slow and if you need to, do some test objects first to see the results you can get with different techniques.
kenlandrum
Sr Member
I will post the V2 file as soon as I get the print proof back from FOD. Would like that I upload the revised file with the same colors as the last version?
dungparker
Well-Known Member
Cool guy, cant wait to see ken print from fod
Tartarusauce
New Member
I appreciate you sharing this and it's exactly what I want but I just need to make minor changes like the spider emblem to resemble the comics. I was wondering if you have a different file for the hands because I want to eliminate the finger and palm pads. Do you have another file for the hands without the pentagonal web shape? Like the one in this image?
BUBBENSTEIN
Well-Known Member
I didn't like that either so I selected the webbing layer and used the clone stamp tool to copy the webs from the webbing above it
kenlandrum
Sr Member
Everything is layered in the .psd file. Turn off what you don't want then save it as a CMYK .jpg before you print.
kenlandrum
Sr Member
Aron Wohlfart
Sr Member
BUBBENSTEIN
Well-Known Member
I used the clone stamp tool to replace the pentagonal shape. You can get rid of most of it by selecting the layer and turning it off though
this may sound like a stupid idea but if the brick pattern on the blue area is suppose to be black should'nt you make it black then people would not really have to puffy paint it...take in mind i cannot really see your pattern upclose to see if it is already black color anyway let me know what you think....
It's a valid question, it is black, but it's also shinny, that's why it changes in different shades of gray.
