The 900th thread about modding a Black Series Kylo Ren Helmet w/ Disney upgrade

TridCloudwalker

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Episode I - The Handsome Menace

Yeah yeah yeah, you've seen a million threads about this already. What makes this one different? Well, first of all, I'll be making this as hyper-accurate as I am able to with a couple mods I haven't seen anyone do yet. I'm also doing some mods that have been seen like grafting on the more detailed and accurate mouth plate from the Disney Store mask, I'm building/modding my own voice changer setup from a commercially available voice modulator kit, I'll be resurfacing it to get rid of ugly inaccurate chewed bubblegum texture, adding a screen accurate textured paint job, and it's all being done by the handsomest bearded ginger on The RPF, something that is lacking in all the other build threads:
20151223_142030.jpg
Look at that sexy nerf herder!

Before we get started, listen to me yap about a few things please. First: It's been over a year since I've been active on this board. I got pretty burned out of the hobby for a while, and still kind of am, but really want to work on this personal project. Yes, the Anakin saber run is a big part of what burned me out, and I still have half a dozen or so of them left that I am trying to get out of my life forever and ever. Second: I am a very busy dude, and have very limited free time, so updates on this will be coming in sporadically, or not at all for a week or two. As such, I'm not always around to answer PMs or replies in the thread, but send away, and I'll answer stuff the best I can. Be patient. Thirdly & lastly: Be cool. I'm doing this solely for fun - for myself. I have pretty much the whole thing planned out, and I intend to do it that way. I don't need to hear why my A&B isn't as good an option as your Y&Z idea. By the time you're reading my updates, it's way too late for me to do anything. This is just a document of what I'm doing. Feel free to use whatever info you glean from it.

Anyway, on with the show!

The first thing you need to do is gut the sumbish like a trout! The voice changer in this thing sounds less like Kylo and more like a screaming Wookie being chased by angry bees down an enclosed water slide. More importantly though, all the added plastic inside to enclose the batteries and circuit board make the helmet sit a good two inches higher on your head than it should. Here's a before and after photo of the helmet pre and post gutting:
kylobeforeafter.jpg
BIG difference. Hides my hairy jowls, AND actually allows my eyes to line up with the eye hole. What a novel idea!

Unfortunately, doing this leaves you with giant holes where the voice changer buttons were, as well as the large battery cover, which now has nothing to attach to. The button holes I'll just be filling in with bondo type stuff when I resurface the helmet. The batter cover, however, will have to be welded in, but so does the seam that separates the front and back of the helmet, so you can do them all in one go. More on that in a second.
20151223_220318.jpg
Hole-y gutted helmet, Batman!

Before you start getting carried away on crazy mods, it's important you secure your main helmet section together so that it keeps it shape. If you have a soldering iron with a changeable tip, get a big fat one screwed in there (that's what she said), or if you're feeling fancy and have money to burn, get a plastic welder at Harbor Freight, or if you have NO money to burn, but have a candle to burn, heat up a flat head screwdriver and begin welding the plastic together both inside and outside the helmet.
20160102_201623.jpg
Red squares were scrap styrene sheet laying in shop (For Sale sign) that I have backing the old botton holes.
20160102_201518.jpg
Battery compartment and front/back seams welded together on exterior of helmet. This took a steady and delicate touch. You wanna keep it as smooth as possible. Feel free to go hog wild on the inside though to make sure it's securely melted and bonded. I even melted down spare plastic (from some of the stuff I gutted) to spread across the internal seam. At this point, I also used a pneumatic hand sander to rough up the exterior of the helmet to eventually have it prepped for resurfacing.
20160102_203526.jpg

Now...this is the point of the build where if you are NOT going to be grafting on a new mouth plate section, you would start fiberglassing the inside of the helmet to make it more ridged. But this is not that kind of build! I am going to attempt to take the bottom half of the Disney Store exclusive mask, and seamlessly attach it to the BS helmet after lopping off its bottom.
20160103_210829.jpg

That's it for part one. Part two is already complete. I will have that written up later tonight or tomorrow with their photos. Stay tuned.....
 
Last edited:
Planning to do the same now that I've seen the comparisons to the voice changer mask mouth part.
 
I have the black series and disney store helmet ready to go. Already gutted the voice changer electronics from the BS. Thanks for the excellent write up :)
 
Episode II - Attack of the Dremel

Alrighty, so after a week of staring at the Black Series and Disney masks side by side, I came up with a basic plan of attack. At first, I had just planned on removing the two separate plates from the Disney and shaving away a little bit of the BS mouth area, and gluing the plates on. Sure, it would have been an improvement, but me being a cocky prop making masochist, decided I could go a few steps further, and make this thing nearly indistinguishable from the Anovos helmet for a fraction of the cost (but with a LOT of expended time...but this is my hobby, so I don't mind the hours; I enjoy the challenge). However, if you want to do this the simple way, without removing the entire bottom section of the helmet, I'll show you where to make the cuts a little ways below in this post.

To make something clear about the Black Series helmet: Proportionally, it is absolutely accurate to the screen used helmet. It's derived from a 1:1 3D print of a 3D scanned screen used helmet. Some people refute this claim....but they are wrong. HOWEVER, to make this a "cheap" (I think $80 is too much for what you get...but I only paid $40 for mine, so the cost is worth all the extra work I'm doing) injection molded product, they had to tweak a couple areas; flattening some spots to remove undercuts for ease of molding. These spots were the layered mouth plates, the cheeks, and the tips of the helmet flair.
Problem Areas.jpg
Here, here, and here.

So the first thing I did was strip the Disney down like a man with fire ants in his pants:
20160103_222448.jpg
If you're thinking this is no longer needed, you're as wrong as Steve Harvey was about the winner of the Miss Universe Pageant. See those nice deep cheeks...and the bottom most mouth plate layer with all those convenient holes in which to attach the other plates? Yeah, we're gonna want to keep those....but not the rest of the mask. So where does the Dremel Apocalypse occur?

THE EASY WAY
If you just want to do a simple mouth plate swap on your helmet with out all the radical facial reconstruction I'm doing, here is your rough cut line on the BS:
Easy Cut BS.jpgEasy Cut BS 2.jpg
The Disney plates will fit over that nicely and leave no gaps; just a seam to fill in on the bottom plate.

THE RIDICULOUS TRIDCLOUDWALKER WAY
Now that we've sated and weeded out the weak and scared, here's how the insane prop builders do it....;)

Okay, I knew I wanted to keep the BS filigree and eyehole, since it's FAR more accurate than the Disney one...plus it has a nice chrome finish on it, AND it will screw right into the top of the BS helmet securely and give me a good anchor for the rest of the mod.
20160103_111724.jpg
I'll be doing more drilling and accurizing on this later, but that will be a future episode.

Here's where I estimated would be the best places to make my cuts, and where I actually cut them:
Hard Cut BS.jpg20160109_204534.jpg
This was a real sphincter clenching moment; the point of no return. Jason looks on in jealousy.

Hard Cut Disney 2.jpg20160109_204622.jpg
I left extra material above the cheeks so that I would have stuff I could weld into the inside of the BS helmet. I'll also have to add even more additional material to the cheek area to fill in a small gap that will be created when I fix the flair on the helmet. More on that later.

Hard Cut Disney.jpg20160110_103028.jpg
This part is not finalized. I'm going to have to do a LOT of very precise sanding and filing to marry this to the bottom of the chrome BS filigree. However, I really wanted this piece because of the sharper detail on the rounded bottom corners. This is going WAY overboard, but I want there to be clear layers where there should be layers, and again, this was just all one lump of molded plastic on the BS. I figure if I'm going through all this trouble, I might as well go ALL the way.

Next up, it's time to fix that flair. All I did here was hit the area with a heatgun, bend outward at the appropriate angle, and flash set it with cold water. Easy peasy. I also took this opportunity to grind out what was left of the battery compartment and redundant screw posts so that I'll have a flatter area to attach my foam later. In these photos, only the flair on YOUR right has been adjusted so that you can compare it to the stock molded shape on the left.
20160109_204417.jpg20160109_204433.jpg20160109_204423.jpg
Adjusted flair on right, original molded shape on left.

A Note: You will have to grind away the old snap tabs that held the two helmet halves together, otherwise it's gonna look REAL ugly now that you can see the underside.
20160109_204500.jpg
This will later be smoothed out during the fiberglass strengthening phase coming up later.

How the new flair will look in proportion to the Disney cheeks:
20160109_204736.jpg20160109_204759.jpg20160109_204741.jpg
That gap behind the flair will be addressed later. I'll just be welding a piece of black polypropylene cut from a garbage can behind there and blending it in.

Here are all the pieces just dry fitted together.
20160109_210215.jpg20160109_210226.jpg
Nothing is welded or permanently attached yet. Just a dry fit. The gaps will be adjusted, and seams filled/blended.....but that's for the next episode. To be continued...
 
Last edited:
As i mentioned on FB, this is just what i needed to get started on my own BS helmet. Clear, concise, and well illustrated, a great tutorial!

Rich
 
I'll be starting on my own BS helmet modding soon and this is definitely getting me pumped and ready to go.

Kudos to you, the dedication to detail and effort put in to make it happen is inspiring!

Will be sure to keep up to date with this.
 
I wish I'd seen this 24hrs ago before I cut my Disney mask.This way looks better than what I attempted to do, maybe I'll have to pick up another and try again.
 
I really hate the plastic they used on the helmet, sanding it just makes it fuzzy. I really hope painting it smooths that all out.
 
This is s brilliant thread I will be watching this very closely! Thank you for your efforts and great detail! I'm a complete noob to this stuff and it's really helping me out


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
For your final paint job, how are you executing the textured look like the screen-used helmet? I was thinking of using some form of textured spray paint. I know rustoleum has a hammered finish paint, but the texture may be too large. The original helmet's texture is so subtle, but there.

Possibly this, with a final smooth texture coat to kill the shine and make it matte?
View attachment 576596
 
For your final paint job, how are you executing the textured look like the screen-used helmet? I was thinking of using some form of textured spray paint. I know rustoleum has a hammered finish paint, but the texture may be too large. The original helmet's texture is so subtle, but there.

Possibly this, with a final smooth texture coat to kill the shine and make it matte?
View attachment 576596

Right now, I can't say. I have a NDA with a company who gave me special paint info. I share everything I can with this community, but I need to honor this agreement.
I MIGHT be modding the formula to make what I think is a more accurate color and sheen, and if that experiment works, i'll share THAT part of the info.

- - - Updated - - -

Did you use the Disney voice changer mask to add on to the bs or a different one?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes, the one you can get only at the Disney Store that comes with the attached hood.
 
This thread is more than 7 years old.

Your message may be considered spam for the following reasons:

  1. This thread hasn't been active in some time. A new post in this thread might not contribute constructively to this discussion after so long.
If you wish to reply despite these issues, check the box below before replying.
Be aware that malicious compliance may result in more severe penalties.
Back
Top