TFA Stormie Helmet

Discussion in 'Star Wars Costumes and Props' started by mlcallanta, May 12, 2015.

  1. mlcallanta

    mlcallanta Well-Known Member

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    Just sharing a homebrew project........

    I thought I'd attempt a TFA Stormtrooper helmet using an old anh stunt bucket as a base. My plan is to use cardboards in varying thickness to help in the transformation. When done, bondo will be applied and sanded to shape. With the various pics on the net, I embarked a few days ago and below are pics of what progress Im currently at the moment.
    I've gone thru a lot of changes - in fact, things get omitted and added on a daily basis due to the nuances and angles of how the pics were taken on google search. I could only hope Im nearing the stage of applying bondo and shaping.

    Mardon (MLC)

    IMG_2251.jpg IMG_2250.jpg IMG_2252.jpg IMG_2253.jpg IMG_2254.jpg IMG_2270.jpg IMG_2271.jpg
     
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  2. mlcallanta

    mlcallanta Well-Known Member

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  3. Blaxmyth

    Blaxmyth Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Most intriguing! The shape looks very close.
     
  4. cavx

    cavx Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Overall I like it. Should the top of the dome be rounder? That was one think that bothered me about the new design.
     
  5. mlcallanta

    mlcallanta Well-Known Member

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    Thank you for your replies, I appreciate it.

    I spend about a few hours daily to work on it but surely it aint a walk in the park. There are details that I add, then remove the next day........only to add it back on the 3rd day. Trying to get that "look" more closely to the pics on the net. Thou at different camera angles, you do see them differently as well - so the addition and omission still continues.
    Even seeing the 'teeth' of the anh stunt was throwing me off, so I had to use black card and cover it.

    Cavx - you are right on the dome, it needs to be rounder and a bit higher on TFA. The anh stunt is more of an elliptical shape and I didnt bother with adding card as I thought it best to add the bondo directly and sand to shape.
    I did add card on the back side of the helmet to reduce bondo material 'coz it seems TFA has a sloping curve going up compared to the anh that has more of a prominent "bump" in the nape area. Cant wait to add bondo.
     
  6. mlcallanta

    mlcallanta Well-Known Member

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    Not much done but I got to bondo the chin area and sanded to shape. Hopefully more time next week to bondo the dome and make it rounder.

    IMG_2336.jpg IMG_2337.jpg IMG_2338.jpg
     
  7. mlcallanta

    mlcallanta Well-Known Member

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    I had the chance to bondo the top, back and the lower surrounds........

    IMG_2342.jpg IMG_2343.jpg IMG_2344.jpg IMG_2345.jpg IMG_2346.jpg
     
  8. mlcallanta

    mlcallanta Well-Known Member

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    Bondo'ed the nose and "W" mouth/cheek profile cut out. I think having the profile cut out will make it easier to paint since the Polyethylene screen is separated. While the 'screen' below is not the right type, I thought I'd check the effect.

    IMG_2362.jpg IMG_2363.jpg IMG_2364.jpg IMG_2366.jpg IMG_2367.jpg
     
  9. Mean Obiwan

    Mean Obiwan Well-Known Member

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    Wow. This is turning out really great I think. Starting out from a stunt!
    Good work so far.
     
  10. mlcallanta

    mlcallanta Well-Known Member

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    Changed some details and bondo continues........

    IMG_2464.jpg IMG_2465.jpg
     
  11. Yoda

    Yoda New Member

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    Nice work Can not wait to see the finished product
     
  12. LB66679

    LB66679 Well-Known Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    looks good so far !!
     
  13. mlcallanta

    mlcallanta Well-Known Member

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    Thanks guys!

    When I saw the side profile pic I posted a day or so ago, the back portion looked terribly wrong. We added more bondo today, focused on the back side and did some panel lines.
    Please excuse the bondo mess on the black portions of the mouth.

    Mardon (MLC)

    IMG_2471.jpg IMG_2470.jpg IMG_2469.jpg IMG_2468.jpg IMG_2467.jpg IMG_2466.jpg
     
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  14. TheSteveRosario

    TheSteveRosario New Member

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    Thought I'd point out some of the curvature that typically goes unnoticed, otherwise you're doing well!

    TFA Stormy Helmet 01.jpg
     
  15. mlcallanta

    mlcallanta Well-Known Member

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    Hello Steve,

    Are you referring to the section of the 7 vents that tapers in front and goes up the edge of the bottom side of the mouth?

    Mardon (MLC)
     
  16. TheSteveRosario

    TheSteveRosario New Member

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    Yes and particularly when the sides curve into the front. I noticed many who have attempted to make this helmet end up making it flat and resulting in more of a boxy look than the smooth streamline look that is presented.
     
  17. mlcallanta

    mlcallanta Well-Known Member

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    So the turn should be like a "banking", whereas the front is lower than the rear right on the corner - did I understand you correctly?
    If so, I think I got it and thanks for the tip!

    Mardon (MLC)
     
  18. TheSteveRosario

    TheSteveRosario New Member

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    Precisely. So long as you have that down you should be golden.
     
  19. mlcallanta

    mlcallanta Well-Known Member

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    Thanks again Steve - really appreciated your input :)

    Mardon (MLC)
     
  20. TheSteveRosario

    TheSteveRosario New Member

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    Anytime :) If you ever need references let me know, I can get tons of photos of the Anovos casting for you!
     
  21. griffinx1

    griffinx1 Member

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    Nice work Mardon.
     
  22. mlcallanta

    mlcallanta Well-Known Member

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    Thanks Jim!

    Well, we molded this puppy :)

    IMG_2474.jpg IMG_2475.jpg

    Mardon (MLC)
     
  23. virateck

    virateck Active Member

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    Fiberglass mold without silicon ? Great technic :)
     
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  24. mlcallanta

    mlcallanta Well-Known Member

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    Sorry as black isnt the best color to take pics of but I thought I'd share the first product pulled from the molds.
    We'll sand a bit more and give it some primer for better pics.

    IMG_2488.jpg IMG_2487.jpg

    Mardon (MLC)
     
    Last edited: Jul 1, 2015
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  25. mlcallanta

    mlcallanta Well-Known Member

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    Cleaned up a bit and primered to check imperfections. Will still undergo some bondo and sanding.

    IMG_2495.jpg IMG_2494.jpg IMG_2493.jpg IMG_2491.jpg IMG_2492.jpg

    Mardon (MLC)
     
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  26. dejordzta

    dejordzta Active Member

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    Wow, that looks really decent for a conversion from an old ANH bucket! Great job! Can't wait to see some lenses popped in there and a nice splat of paint on, too.
     
  27. egomaster

    egomaster New Member

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    Great bucket. Do plan on selling some?
     
  28. mlcallanta

    mlcallanta Well-Known Member

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    I guess if there's enough interest.

    We finally got the helmet greeblies molded and the start of painting the bucket as well. Still waiting on the mesh will be coming from a friend abroad and need to sort smoked lenses for this.

    IMG_2508.jpg IMG_2510.jpg IMG_2514.jpg

    Mardon (MLC)
     
  29. griffinx1

    griffinx1 Member

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    Looks like another fine MLC helmet! Well done Mardon.
     
  30. madmanmick

    madmanmick New Member

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    Hi Mardon,

    Where did you find the correct mesh for the mouth grill? I haven't been able to find a decent product for this as yet. Also, how do you intend to make your lenses?
     
  31. mlcallanta

    mlcallanta Well-Known Member

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    Thanks Griffin! :)


    Mesh would be coming from a friend (French Garrison) - Im trading some wares for it. From what I was told, the mesh is honeycomb/Hexagonal design where each cell is 4-5mm.
    From a bit of research, the material could be fabric, polyethylene plastic or metal (grills?). Im checking fabrics (tulle) for the whole "w" mouthpiece to be 'breathable' for comfort. Polyethylene plastic screen mesh may be used as well, but havent seen the right cell size yet. Metal grilles could also be used and more common in automotive front grilles.

    As for lenses, I just bought inexpensive motorcycle goggles which we would try later. Its clear, so I might go to my neighbourhood car accessory shop for free scrap tint. You can also look into 'faceshields' used for welding (?) - they come in clear or smoked. You could probably get 3-4 pairs of lenses from a single faceshield.

    Pics below of helmet mesh and faceshield.

    HG-25-FS-15L-LG-WS5-500px.jpg tfa.close3.jpg
     
  32. madmanmick

    madmanmick New Member

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    Thanks Mardon,

    Do you also happen to have a link or tutorial for the method you use to create fibreglass only molds? I currently have done a silicone glove + plaster mother mold, but the silicone is so expensive in Australia that I would like to suss out other ways of doing it.

    Regards,

    Michael
     
  33. mlcallanta

    mlcallanta Well-Known Member

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    Hi Michael,

    I do have a small fiberglass outfit, so my workers take care of all my fiberglassing needs :)
    Im sure you can find tutorial videos in youtube.

    With regards to my TFA helmet above, the molds were divided into 3 - left side, right side and front chin (in order to mold the front hole on the left chin).
    Silicone is also crazy expensive this side of the planet.

    Mardon (MLC)
     
  34. madmanmick

    madmanmick New Member

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    Thanks Mardon,

    Have you done many other builds aside from this TFA Helmet? I'm interested to see what you have done using the card stock and bond method. I've done pepakura before, and 3D printed a master, but I find that I spend too much time on filling/sanding to get a good surface finish. That's why I've decided to sculpt in clay this time around.

    Michael
     
  35. mlcallanta

    mlcallanta Well-Known Member

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    For the past 15yrs, my shop's forte is making 1/6 scale WWII tanks and armour and about 12yrs ago we ventured into making props. Started with TDH (The Dented Helmet) making armor, jetpack, helmet, blasters, etc. From there, we also make biker scout stuff, 3PO, battle droids, pit droids, Halo Master Chief, Iron Man, etc. etc. I had all my projects in printroom.com photo album but unfortunately it seems printroom is gone. I guess I need to relocate a new site for all those construction photos.

    Feel free to contact me off list: mlcallanta@gmail.com

    Mardon (MLC)

    battledroid.23.jpg MLCJawa_blaster.9.jpg MLC_Pitdroid.13.jpg MLC_jinroh.12.jpg MLC_halo3.165.jpg MLC_batarmor.39.jpg Mardjetpack.15.jpg BSproduct.25.jpg AT-ST.4.jpg Pulse_rifle.16.jpg
     
  36. mlcallanta

    mlcallanta Well-Known Member

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    Painted and with clear lenses installed. Will put tint on lenses later.
    Do excuse the paint job as my fiberglass workers are not pro painters :p

    My daughter came home from work and passed by a fabric store. She saw some mesh called "Tulle" and got a small sample. Its about 4mm - 4.5mm per cell, so seems like the right size. A good candidate if nothing else and if I add black speaker cloth at the back, helmet would be more breathable and also easier to communicate with while inside the helmet.
    The last pic is of the metal mesh Im trading with. Just checking as many options as I can.
    IMG_2521.jpg IMG_2522.jpg IMG_2523.jpg IMG_2524.jpg IMG_2525.jpg IMG_2526.jpg IMG_2528.jpg tfa mesh 1.jpg

    Mardon (MLC)
     

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  37. UT Trooper

    UT Trooper New Member

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    I am a 501st biker scout and can vouch for the MLC biker scout helmet. Fantastic helmet.
     
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  38. madmanmick

    madmanmick New Member

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    Good work Mardon, looks good.

    Incidentally, I actually found a product for the mesh grill today as well... I found something called "Dance Mesh"at my local Spotlight store, it's very similar to the Tulle fabric that you posted here.

    In case you hadn't noticed, I created my own thread recently to let people see the sculpt and build I'm doing for my TFA Stormtrooper helmet, see here (let me know what you think): http://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=242262&p=3690504#post3690504

    I've just taken a mold today using the silicone caulk method (for the first time), hoping it works out alright.
     
  39. mlcallanta

    mlcallanta Well-Known Member

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    Your a fast sculptor, congrats!
    With the back-to-back typhoons hitting our country, not much development on my helmet. I couldnt even go to my friend's car accessory shop but he has 3 kinds of tint that he'll give me for the helmet. The only thing that got added to my helmet is within the interior - fiberglass flat sheet on the dome to level my eyes with the holes and a hard hat liner. Being in a tropical country, we cant adapt any type of foam padding/helmet lining so a hard hat liner is sufficient enough to hold the buckets on our heads.
    Im also waiting on that metal grille my friend is sending me before I decide which mesh to use. Either a solid backing or speaker cloth backing (for more air to come in).

    IMG_2536.jpg

    Mardon (MLC)
     
  40. mlcallanta

    mlcallanta Well-Known Member

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    Small update......

    We made "W" interior mouth plate out of fiberglass. Molded it to fit from the interior. Mesh could either be added straight to the plate or holes could be made to the plate, covered with speaker cloth then adding the mesh.

    Mardon (MLC)

    IMG_2544.jpg
     
  41. OldKen

    OldKen Master Member

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    Looks awesome.

    I'm getting the itch to buy, build, or pep one...

    I just know that there is SOO little reference.

    A year from now we may have actual dims or digital files of the real things...

    Arrgh!

    I have 5 TK kits that I still haven't built. (2 complete)
     
  42. madmanmick

    madmanmick New Member

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    Mardon,

    Why have you gone with a hard plate mouth piece? Would it not be better to have an open hole for ventilation, covered by a combination of the mesh and black material? That way it's easier to breathe through...
     
  43. mlcallanta

    mlcallanta Well-Known Member

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    Originally, the plan was just to tack the mesh from behind the mouth hole and perhaps a breathable material like speaker cloth behind the mesh as well - that is actually still doable. Both mesh and speaker cloth are soft items thus you have to tack them all around and if in the future a more accurate mesh comes along removing them might pose a problem. Creating a hard plate means you dont need to adhere all around the perimeter, just probably tack them at certain points - easier to remove later on. Also, I could still bore any shape of hole on the hard plate, cover with speaker cloth then add the mesh. The hard plate serves as a solid mounting for both soft items - speaker cloth and mesh. Easier to remove as well if either the mesh or speaker cloth gets damaged in the future for replacement. Better than having to rip out both speaker cloth and mesh from around the mouth profile.

    Mardon (MLC)
     
  44. mlcallanta

    mlcallanta Well-Known Member

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    While our current focus is on making the armors, I shamefully admit that I got lazy and just adhered the mesh to the mouth plate, spray painted it and tacked it inside the helmet.

    Given some time I'll evaluate how bad I would need a vented mouth piece. If/when that happens, it'll be easier to just pull a new fiberglass mouth plate (thats why we molded it) as well as remove the angled tack bars holding the plate in place.

    IMG_2547.jpg IMG_2548.jpg IMG_2549.jpg IMG_2550.jpg

    Mardon (MLC)
     
  45. Makul7

    Makul7 New Member

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    How do you get such a nice and clean (and glossy!!!) paint? I often fail to have such a nice and even painting :( First I use primer spray and after that glossy white but it's nothing compared to your painting :(
     
  46. mlcallanta

    mlcallanta Well-Known Member

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    After painting, put a clear top coat to protect your paint finish. Its the top coat that makes them shine :)

    Mardon (MLC)
     
  47. Makul7

    Makul7 New Member

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    Oh thank you so much for the hint Mardon :) It's much appreciated!!

    And what about the even paint? I fail to spray the helmet even, a lot of "nose bleedings" :/ Is the key to spray layer by layer or do you spray it at once?
     
  48. mlcallanta

    mlcallanta Well-Known Member

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    You do it by layers. Sand, paint, sand, paint, etc. Once satisfied, give it a clear top coat. Post #28 above is just paint w/o top coat. However, we do use a compressor and a spray paint gun. I cant do much with a basic can spray paint either - only small parts. With bigger stuff, out comes the compressor/paint gun.

    Mardon (MLC)
     
  49. madmanmick

    madmanmick New Member

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    Thanks for the explanation Mardon, good point. I haven't decided whether I will create a solid mouth piece yet, I'm not close enough to that level of detail.

    I've just taken a first rondo pull of my mold (which was a cheap silicone caulk experiment):

    http://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=242262&p=3690504#post3690504

    I'm going to move on to refining the helmet for a final mold now.
     
  50. madmanmick

    madmanmick New Member

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    Hey Mardon,

    It's been a while, where's the helmet at now? Have you finished it?
     

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