Temporary Mold (one time use) for custom helmet

[Devilblades]

I am making a custom power ranger helmet (shrimp ranger) and I wanted to know if there is something else I could use besides Rebound 25 to make a one time use mold. I am sculpting it with bondo, and it is too "front" heavy to wear. I need to make just one cast of the helmet. So a one time use Mold would be great. Don't feel like wasting Rebound 25 (since it costs so much) on just one helmet cast.

 

[Neoproks]

Try searching for Silicone Caulk mold tutorials on youtube, there are a ton of them. For a one off mold where you don't need an extreme amount of detail, and the master does not have any large undercuts, a caulk mold should be sufficient.

 

[Knowone251]

You could try doing a urethane mold. Cheaper, but you have to make sure everything is properly covered in a release agent since you are basically making a mold out of glue.

 

[Exanimus]

Also look into alginate. It will dry out and tear after one or two uses, but is cheaper than silicone and, as a bonus, is relatively chemical free. (Seaweed based). The only downside is that it can set up VERY quickly.

 

[OldSkoolEffects]

You can't cast resin into alginate, since it reacts badly with the moisture. I'd suggest just getting a small kit of rubber and using plaster bandages for a mother mold. I was in a similar situation and just bit the bullet and used some Stroke I had and fiberglass.

 

[Exanimus]

You can't cast resin into alginate, since it reacts badly with the moisture. I'd suggest just getting a small kit of rubber and using plaster bandages for a mother mold. I was in a similar situation and just bit the bullet and used some Stroke I had and fiberglass.

I see... So much still to learn.

 

[Devilblades]

I think I may just do one thin layer of Rebound 25 then use plaster or something for the hard shell. I'll post pics of it all, including the helmet once I do it Thanks everyone

 

[clonesix]

Hydrostone will work fine, and cheap.

I doubt there are many undercuts to a Power Ranger helmet, and it should release just fine. If there are undercuts, then the mold is destroyed in the process, but you have a fiberlass copy...that will likely need some boidywork.

release the model with vaseline and do a two-part mold with the stone., once cured, let all the moisture dry out and seal well with lacquer, several layers, as polyester resin hates moisture. then give it a good coat of PVA and fiberglass it. if it doesn't release easily, shatter the plaster, and there is the new part out of the one-off mold.

No need for rebound 25.