T800 project

Started to have a bit more of a look at the hips, they are still a bit asymmetrical, which I think is a leftover of the original sculpt, it's not the sort of thing you'd see when it's assembled and from what I can gather from all the reference pictures I can find, this is not terribly uncomon on many of the parts, not just the pelvis, but anyway this is a photo compilation of the things I did fix it and the pix with the red hilights are the not corrected or unfixable parts of the symmetry...
 

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Id be interested in one of these awesome T-800 kits when available. It would look right at home in my man room and give me something challenging to put together.
 
Jaz-

You crazy f*ckin' Aussie this build is amazing!

Just spent the last 3 hours (while at work) tuning out the world, reading though this build, and watching almost every single one of your videos. The metalwork is absolutely amazing. Really, really, cool stuff and I learned a TON! Thanks for documenting the whole process and keeping people up to date and informed on this thread. A true wealth of information in here and an asset to TheRPF. Also, I hope the Achilles is healing up nicely and not giving you any more problems. That sounded like no fun.

I have ZERO experience with metalwork so I learned a lot while reading this. However, what I do have a lot of experience in is Silicone molds. Now, I'm unsure as to what type of silcone (tin cure or platinum cure) and Shore value of silicone you are using but after watching the YouTube video of your skull mold it looks like you are going to use a cubic crap ton of silicone to mold up the whole T800. Also, without a vacuum degassing chamber I fear that your going to have quite a few air bubbles to deal with...which is less than ideal, especially with something you are investing this much time into. Have you thought about using a silicone thinner and "painting" on a detail coat and then using a thickener after that to lay up the rest? You could save some money in silicone by having thinner walls around your mold and then laying up a mother mold of plaster bandages or fiberglass. Also, thinner silicone walls will make pulling pieces out of the mold a lot easier (won't need your son and his mate :) ) and could allow you to have smaller seams and seam lines...as you can put the seam lines in odd places and then stretch the mold off of the casting.

Once again, this build is amazing. Can't wait to see more progress!
 
GodsAdvised said:
Jaz-

You crazy f*ckin' Aussie this build is amazing!

Just spent the last 3 hours (while at work) tuning out the world, reading though this build, and watching almost every single one of your videos. The metalwork is absolutely amazing. Really, really, cool stuff and I learned a TON! Thanks for documenting the whole process and keeping people up to date and informed on this thread. A true wealth of information in here and an asset to TheRPF. Also, I hope the Achilles is healing up nicely and not giving you any more problems. That sounded like no fun.

I have ZERO experience with metalwork so I learned a lot while reading this. However, what I do have a lot of experience in is Silicone molds. Now, I'm unsure as to what type of silcone (tin cure or platinum cure) and Shore value of silicone you are using but after watching the YouTube video of your skull mold it looks like you are going to use a cubic crap ton of silicone to mold up the whole T800. Also, without a vacuum degassing chamber I fear that your going to have quite a few air bubbles to deal with...which is less than ideal, especially with something you are investing this much time into. Have you thought about using a silicone thinner and "painting" on a detail coat and then using a thickener after that to lay up the rest? You could save some money in silicone by having thinner walls around your mold and then laying up a mother mold of plaster bandages or fiberglass. Also, thinner silicone walls will make pulling pieces out of the mold a lot easier (won't need your son and his mate :) ) and could allow you to have smaller seams and seam lines...as you can put the seam lines in odd places and then stretch the mold off of the casting.

Once again, this build is amazing. Can't wait to see more progress!
Click to expand...

Thanks heaps for the feedback, I am definitely new to silicone mould making, the two prob's I have at the moment is the thickness and the working time, so please by all means help if you can, I got the stuff pretty cheap so I do have a lot but I'd rather not be wasting is if I can, most of what I've worked out so far is though experimenting with it, it had/has no instructions with it, so I can't really tell you what type it is, about the only info I have is that it came in a blue 25lt drum along with 500ml of catalyst I thinking of having a go at biulding a vacuum system, so just a few questions.

Is there a way to thin out the mix, as in make it runnier ?
Will using half the catalyst double the setting time ?

Any thoughs on what you you think is the best way to go that would be great...

Thanks...
 
After watching the video I'd put money on this being a tin-cured silicone and not a platinum cure. Tin-cure silicones are usually a large part A and then a catalyst B like you used...most platinum silicones are a 1:1 mix.

Not sure what you can get in Australia but on the Smooth-On website (www.smooth-on.com) they have a silicone thinner that works with both platinum and tin cure silicones. This would allow you to thin your mix down a little bit and put a "beauty" coat on the piece first. This will be a thinner coat that captures all the detail of the piece with no bubbles. Then you could either cover the piece completely as you did with the skull...or you could add a thickener to your next batch and "paint" on a few thickening coats. There are also additives you can add to the silicone to speed up the cure time...which is really nice because a 12 to 24 hour cure time is not fun to wait around for. However, you'll need to do some more research on what kind of silicone you are using.

Now, without using exact chemicals from manufacturers it gets a little more strange as there are a lot of different types of silicone out there and they all react a little differently. Honestly, for a cheap(er) solution, you might be able to thin down the silicone with a little bit of Xylol, Xylene, or other paint stripper / mineral spirits type products that you can find at the hardware store. They should thin down the mix but then they evaporate out, leaving just the silicone. I've heard of people using these to thin down silicone to use in an air brush for painting. You have to paint silicone with silicone as nothing else will stick to it. Might be worth giving it a test batch. Honestly, it could be a huge failure...but it just might work :). Wear a respirator and take precautions and all that stuff.

There are a lot of silicone casting videos out there that should help. Smooth-On has a lot of "how to" videos on their website as well. Good luck
 
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Having a go at painting it on was next on my list, I'll post more as I go and do some more research based on what you have said...
Thanks agian...
 
Jaz-

This video shows the basic steps for how I've done a lot of my silicone molds. In this video they are using a urethane rubber and not silicone...but you get the point. A thinned down first coat allows you to capture all the details with no air bubbles and then painting on a few thicker coats allows you to strengthen the mold. I also think they got a little carried away with the mother mold...I'm pretty sure a basic 2 piece mother mold would have been fine and taken less time.
Mold Making Tutorial: How To Make a Brush-On Rubber Mold of a Bust - YouTube

I think creating a box with registration keys (kind of like you did in the video) that can hold 5, 6, 7 or more different small pieces is going to work great for a lot of your pieces....but for the big pieces you might want to use the brush on and mother mold as it'll save you a lot of silicone and should be easier to work with.
 
I found that vid on the smooth-on site you recommended, been sitting the computer for a few hours now looking at different clips, the more I do the more I thinks paint on will be the way to go... If I do, do you think i'd still need to de-gas it ? I do have an idea for making machine if you'd think I still need one ?
 
Started the fix issues with the upper arm parts, overall these are some of the better bits of the kit, most of the line details are pretty good but there are quite a few bubbles in the top and the inside support was paper thin so it needed replacing, once the bog has had time to set, should be able to put finishing touches and add them to the growing pile of Terminatory goodness :D
 

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Just a quick video on tricks and tips on working with resin parts that some TLC and how I fix the little bubbles that plauge these parts, I don't use this techniques on every spot, I still use other stuff like gap filler on larger areas, but the supper glue idea just works realy quick when it comes set time and gives me a good level of control on were I want it to go.
Resin repair tutorial - YouTube
 
Just relised I forgot to post this one, love to get some feedback if anyone has a better idea?


I found a cheap camp stove that I was able to strip out for the parts I need to make a muzzle flash simulator, still needs to be tweaked quite a bit to get the size and colour right, but with as bit more work I think it will work.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iRDGLS-gnIY
 
This is the human style skull that OzDean sent me and will be what I use to make a mold so I can build a lot more for the base of the Endo, stared out as just fixing and seperating the jaw, but quickly became a bit more involved, the little hole in jaw was an area of paper thin resin and as I was removing the jaw I put my thumb though the forhead:facepalm but after a bit of plastic:D surgery, he looks like a new bone head.
Human Skull resculpt - YouTube
 
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