T1 and T2 Endoskeleton Research Thread

Hello. I'm still on this forum, just not visiting often. Regarding my T1 scan, it is indeed made from a Thai copy of the M1, as you described. However, at the moment, I can't sell it, even though I've invested many years of time, effort, and love into it. Due to being in Russia, I currently can't sell models on most platforms due to sanctions from the European Union and the USA. I also can't receive money from outside my country. I would gladly sell Terminator skull models, but so far, I haven't found a way to do that. Currently, I've found the necessary version of the Tamiya Sand Scorcher gearbox on eBay and am working on modeling these two parts in CAD. In the future, I plan to buy the necessary parts to complete the most accurate model of the Terminator T1 skull. In the description of my profile, you can find a link to Telegram, where I share (in Russian) my observations about the specific features of the structure of the first Terminator skull.
Yeah, it's a real shame when our world leaders can't play nice with each other and it's always us regular civilians who end up in the mess.

I have tried to find a good(and fairly cheap) software which can take animation/video and 3D track it and create geometry from it. Only good one I have found was 3dequalizer, which is "not cheap".
 
Sorry for my assumption that the T2 style scan was the basis for your T1.

On another note. I'm getting more and more annoyed with the Einstar 3D scanner. It constantly feels like they just made it okay... so people would still think their more expensive ones would be a better choice. It definitely has an issue with tracking smaller objects. Or maybe I just need how to learn how to actually use it with those markers. Still... it is heavy, it is noisy, and for what it demands of the computer it doesn't live up to that requirement. Frankly... the crappy David LaserScanner I had years ago was more fun to play with.

I wanted to scan the LFS teeth, so I could make improvements to them. But it was a bust. I'm too annoyed now to try with markers. I'll have to try that another day... and perhaps see if I can buy a tripod to use with the scanner so I don't have to hold that MF'ing heavy and weird to hold brick of a scanner. Maybe I should get that handlebar frame for it.

Feeling weird... so I'm probably gonna go rest a bit soon.
 
First, some notes on those 2 photos for context:
  • In the first photo, my bet is that head is fresh back from plating (whether you believe it was vacuum-metalized or electroplated). There doesn't seem to be any dark weathering in the recesses/details yet. I say this because you can see around the CPU port and other scribed lines don't have that deep "pop" of contrast yet.
  • In the second photo, it looks like we're probably looking at the hero endoskull in the state it was in just prior to filming. The head isn't missing chunks of finish from being bashed around.
I think a lot of it may have to do with lighting and environmental conditions in the photography. How diffused and even the light is that is hitting the metallic-looking object and how much contrast is in the environment it is reflecting will have a huge impact on what the surface reflectivity is perceived to be. I know this is going to sound unpopular, but please hear me out. If you take a chrome ball and surround it with evenly lit white surfaces, it will look rather dull/matte where it is reflecting the even white environment.

For example, here's a chrome ball being shot by camera, sitting on a white surface, and surrounded on most sides by softly lit white vertical surfaces. Much of the chrome ball looks satin/matte except for the obvious reflected high-contrast area where the camera and rest of the room is clearly visible.
View attachment 1694277
That's one factor. They also still could have sprayed the metallic finish on the endo with something to dull the reflections. We know that spraying many types of clear coat over chrome dulls the finish. I'm not saying that is what they did, but it's possible. Movies often use weathering (like C3PO in Tatooine) or dulling sprays to knock down reflections (especially when they are worried about seeing themselves/the film camera in the reflection in a shot).

But, I bet that the endoskeleton is really pretty shiny. Maybe not a perfect mirror, but nearly. Some great cinematography often involves creating more depth and separation in your shots by using lighting and atmosphere to push and pull your subject and background. Like depth of field (DOF-focus), it's a huge tool in a cinematographers toolkit, and I know James Cameron pumped something into the air in many shots at the end of The Terminator. The factory background is often foggy looking behind the endoskeleton (and probably all around it too). Look at the difference in black point between the shadows on the endoskeleton, and the shadows on the factory walls/ceiling. I believe that this is having an effect on how light is traveling to the endoskeleton metallic finish, and also that the environment it is reflecting is hazy in many of the shots. Also note that as I've examined lighting choices in the final sequences of T1, it seemed like to make the endoskeleton more scary/sinister, it's rarely lit from the front and often we get glancing lighting from the sides. I think this keeps much of the face in darkness which also doesn't reflect a lot. Like this example:

View attachment 1694269

The reason I'm not sure if they used any intention dulling (other than the metallic finish getting abused and roughed up/chipped up over the course of filming), is there are shots in the film where you can see really sharp and strong reflections. I'll post this example toward the endo of The Terminator where the endoskull looks nearly as chrome as the Icons replica. Look in particular around the nose/cheek/chin area. That's a chrome-like reflection in my book:
View attachment 1694255

Ok, sorry for the long post. But it's a complex topic for sure. And again, I'm not saying I have a definitive answer, but everything I see can be explained by how light, environment, atmosphere, and reflectivity work. Also, there's behind the scenes gems like this photo I'll just drop right here:
View attachment 1694276

Discuss,
-Dana
In general, there are paint coatings that are very close to vacuum chrome plating, for example, a skull painted with such paint. If you place such a skull in the shade, and there are bright objects around it, they will be very clearly reflected in it, especially when the rays reflect tangentially to the surface (Fresnel reflections).
 

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Sorry for my assumption that the T2 style scan was the basis for your T1.

On another note. I'm getting more and more annoyed with the Einstar 3D scanner. It constantly feels like they just made it okay... so people would still think their more expensive ones would be a better choice. It definitely has an issue with tracking smaller objects. Or maybe I just need how to learn how to actually use it with those markers. Still... it is heavy, it is noisy, and for what it demands of the computer it doesn't live up to that requirement. Frankly... the crappy David LaserScanner I had years ago was more fun to play with.

I wanted to scan the LFS teeth, so I could make improvements to them. But it was a bust. I'm too annoyed now to try with markers. I'll have to try that another day... and perhaps see if I can buy a tripod to use with the scanner so I don't have to hold that MF'ing heavy and weird to hold brick of a scanner. Maybe I should get that handlebar frame for it.

Feeling weird... so I'm probably gonna go rest a bit soon.
I can suggest photogrammetry of teeth; it will work better. You just need to cover them with water-soluble paint, spraying different colors with a toothbrush so that the dots are no larger than 0.5mm in diameter (preferably smaller). Wait between different colors until the previous one dries! The paint shouldn't be too thick, or the roughness will be significant. Then, under good lighting, take many sharp photos in a circular pattern from different directions. After that, either you can use any photogrammetry software to create a scan, or you can send me the photos, and I will do it for you. The best scanning results are achieved with the RealityCapture software, with Agisoft Metashape coming in second in terms of quality.
And another important point: for photos, it's crucial to achieve a greater depth of field, and to achieve that, you need to close the lens aperture significantly. However, there's a nuance—after a certain aperture value (usually from f/18 and above), image sharpness significantly decreases due to light diffraction. It's essential to find the golden mean for a specific lens, where the depth of field is large enough but the loss of sharpness in small details due to diffraction hasn't started yet.
Below is an example of how I take photos. I've compiled a video from the pictures for illustration.
 

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In general, there are paint coatings that are very close to vacuum chrome plating, for example, a skull painted with such paint. If you place such a skull in the shade, and there are bright objects around it, they will be very clearly reflected in it, especially when the rays reflect tangentially to the surface (Fresnel reflections).
There is also Molotow Liquid Chrome paint, which is alcohol-based, and I can't say anything about its adhesive properties, but it's worth a try. I found a comparison of lacquers that may be suitable for coating this paint. Generally, it is said that the chrome effect of this paint is much more mirror-like than Alclad 2 chrome. Moreover, this paint can be applied to the surface of any color; it will cover it completely!
 

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There is also Molotow Liquid Chrome paint, which is alcohol-based, and I can't say anything about its adhesive properties, but it's worth a try. I found a comparison of lacquers that may be suitable for coating this paint. Generally, it is said that the chrome effect of this paint is much more mirror-like than Alclad 2 chrome. Moreover, this paint can be applied to the surface of any color; it will cover it completely!
I have used it a little. When you cover anything larger than "something tiny" it basically takes months to cure and fully set it seems.
I have mainly used it for weathering/distressing. Which a 1mm Molotowpen is great for. I have used matte mod podge to seal it. Works just fine on metal/plastic/resin.

I have seen examples of people using it in an airbrush.
 
I have used it a little. When you cover anything larger than "something tiny" it basically takes months to cure and fully set it seems.
What if we speed up the drying process? For example, I dry the plastic for 3D printing in a vegetable dehydrator, which can heat the air inside up to 70 degrees.
 
From what I've seen the Alclad 2 has the closest chrome look to the screen used endoskeletons, which were not mirror chrome shiny. They looked more like polished steel, which is a look Alclad 2 chrome can achieve. It will also help if the prep finish on the parts aren't perfectly smooth. That is also a thing that looks weird on reproductions - the almost professional car painter prep and finish to the part. These are war machines probably just quickly cast, milled out, put together and then sent out. Keeping the imperfect surfaces, dings and scratches and damage will make them look more like the screen used endoskeletons.
 
Cool. That may actually be info that can help us find this particular piece. Awesome. :)

And thanks for helping out with the logo. Appreciate it. :)
 
Found an official PDF of the logo:
file:///C:/Users/scottspc/Desktop/Titeflex%20Corporation%20-%20Aero-Hose.pdf

I'll post the pdf and eps files in a sec.
 
Now that I have an official copy of the logo I can create the single line stamped logo. I’ll get working on that now and post it. Does pdf work TMG?
 
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