Styrene

[thd9791]

Hi everyone.

So Styrene, hobby plastic right?

I was wondering if we could discuss how to work with it, what to cut and sand it with, the right glue, etc. I've only heard of the stuff and never seen or used it myself, but I have heard it could be a useful tool.

(Also, Others have used T Track styrene in saber builds...I can't find it anywhere? Places sell tubes, flat sheet, even square and triangular tubes and I beams, but no track...am I crazy or is it off the market?)

Thank you everyone!

 

[Nedax]

I get my styrene from a small model hobby shop we have in the city, he has all sorts of styrene parts, also T-tracks, so I would suggest to look out for a shop like that.

Or you order it online from a shop like this: Plastruct, Inc. - Home

 

[MrPinski]

Styrene is a bit hard to get raw, you usually have to order it. You can buy it at home depot in the form of "for sale" signs.

Cutting it is as easy as scoring and snapping. It will snap really clean and usually only need a light sanding.

the stuff can be glued with super glue, hot glue or epoxy.

You can sand it quite easily and paint it too.

 

[NormanF]

I think the real "experts" for styrene might be on model railroad boards. Those guys seem to use it pretty extensively.

Sent from my Apple Newton

 

[division 6]

Evergreen and Plastruct sell sheet, textured sheet, rod, tube, T, I, U, etc.

Most "real" hobby shops carry them.

 

[Serenity]

Is anyone aware of a source for metallic or brass colored styrene? I have something I'd like to make and painting it won't look quite as nice...

If not styrene, perhaps a plastic like what name tags or plaques are made of (with the shiny surface)?

 

[LizardJedi]

Well, if you want an intro to "styrene"...

The term "styrene" itself is a little vague. Polystyrene is a polymer that can be manufactured and manipulated in many ways to make many different kind of products.

When most people on here say "styrene", they are refering to thermoplastic sheets, which are normally either HIPS (Hi-Impact PolyStyrene) or ABS (Acrylonnitrile Butadiene Styrene). Fancy names aren't really important but both of these have subtle differences (you can think of it as different "alloys" of plastics). HIPS is a bit more "plastic" (meaning it deforms better), and generally has better forming properties. ABS is more durable. Also, ABS is available textured... which you often see used as casings or packaging

In terms of what kind of glue to use... I always use either CA glue or 2-part epoxy. Really though, this stuff is very versatile, and not really picky about what kind of glue you use (unlike PVC or PETG). For painting, again almost anything goes. Acrylic or Enamel are my reccomendations. Just stay consistant with what you use (don't mix enamels with acrylics)

Another form of styrene you see used around here is Extruded PolyStyreene (EPS foam). These are those pink or blue insulation sheets that are so handy to carve with. This stuff is VERY picky about what you can use with it... anything in aerosol will melt it. Best off using acrylic brush paint and white glue.

But is not to be confused with EXpanded PolyStyrene (XPS foam), which everyone knows as this:

Two very different things with almost identical chemistry and very similar names.

 

[gunnerk19]

I've gotten my styrene from these guys...
Styrene, HIS, High Impact Styrene Sheet | Industrial Plastic Supply, Inc.
Very good pricing and the sheets are much larger than the typical "for sale" sign type, good for if you are making bigger objects without having join seams.

 

[Cobheran]

I get mine from US Plastics for vacuforming. It's nice because I can specify what thickness I want and all. Hobby stores in my area are a bit slim pickings but I did find a surplus store in the area that carries ABS at $12 for a 4x6 sheet, so got a bunch of those.

As far as working with styrene (HIPS) I tend to treat it a lot like wood in regards to sanding. It sands easy and can be hand sanded so a belt or palm sander usually isn't necessary, just be sure that you progressively step up your grits to get rid of scratches like everything else. For gluing I just use superglue. Once it sets the plastic usually breaks before the glue bond does. Heat gunning styrene is where the real challenge comes in. Styrene absorbs heat incredibly well, and as far as I know more readily than other other hobby plastic (I have not worked with Sintra so this comparison would be with ABS styrene and plas-tex [recycled resin plastic that does not snap and is highly flexible, but very heat resistant.]) and will go from sturdy to warping in a matter of seconds if you aren't careful.

Types of styrene, it's fricken everywhere. If you follow the link I posted above there are a variety of products made with styrene (listed as polystyrene here, not to be confused with polyethelyne, polyurethane, or polypropelyne any of which I would not reccomend over styrene for hobby purposes.) Sheets are the most common for hobbyists but there are tubes and blocks and actual products as well.

 

[wannab]

Ask your local sign shop(s) where they get theirs (sheet styrene). They likely have an in town supplier. Also sign shops might sell it to you and you may be able to buy their "drops" (scraps). Sign companies go through tons of this stuff (I know mine did). I always carried three thickness' (1,2, and 3mm +or_ a .5mm).


Doug

 

[Pro Mod]

HIPS is usually available from 0.25mm up to 6mm thickness.
Generally available in black and white and a small range colours.
Silver is probably the only metalic available.
For gluing I use a solvent which neatly melts the two surfaces together.

 

[Darth Lars]

If you need to make straight cuts in styrene sheets, get a proper "scoring knife" and a metal ruler. Perfect cut every time.

CA glue works great sometimes - it depends on the application. It does not have very good shear strength, so a part that has been glued on with CA glue could easily break off if the prop gets a bump.

I often use Humbrol Poly Cement, which is a solvent. If you can find it, get the yellow "precision" bottle!
Humbrol's jar with a brush leaks after the seal has been broken -- it smells a lot and the content evaporates over time. Plus, everything you brush evaporates very quickly.
Humbrol's tube packaging has a too large opening for a very runny gel -- it gets everywhere.

There are also several brands of "plastic glue" that are thick gels and come in tubes. I use those when I need to bond larger parts, or to bond styrene and PVC.

For bonding styrene and resin casts, I use epoxy.

Polyester resin (which is found in Bondo and is the most common resin for fiberglass) does not adhere too well with styrene. Do use an epoxy-based putty (such as Milliput), or an epoxy-based fiberglass resin instead.

 

[Luke0312]

Something I have in mind will use rather small parts, 3" long by 1/8" wide. I see possible issues in using the scoring/breaking method for these (hopefully I'm wrong though.) What would be the best method for cutting out these parts?

 

[wannab]

Something I have in mind will use rather small parts, 3" long by 1/8" wide. I see possible issues in using the scoring/breaking method for these (hopefully I'm wrong though.) What would be the best method for cutting out these parts?

Score repeatedly (deeper cut) then snap or until cut free.


Doug

 

[Darth Lars]

You may have to file a snapped edge afterwards.

 

[Cosmic Ash]

im lucky enough to have a tap plastics about 20 minutes away so i usually always have at least a half sheet (4 ft x 4 ft) in the work room

a box cutter to cut along the traced line than you can slowly snap it right out. or if you have a nice heavy pair of scissors that arent as harsh as tin snips you can just cut it up like that.

it reacts to heat and gets floppy pretty quick so low setting is perfect for it until you get comfortable. and its pretty cheap by the sheet i think like 30 bucks for a 4 x 8, but then again i dont have to deal with shipping it

hope that helps!

 

[Nate08]

Something I have in mind will use rather small parts, 3" long by 1/8" wide. I see possible issues in using the scoring/breaking method for these (hopefully I'm wrong though.) What would be the best method for cutting out these parts?

As others have said, score repeatedly depending on the thickness of sheet youre using and youll be just fine.

While Im new to this site, Ive been using Styrene for years in my other hobby, scale RC rock crawlers.

My parts are a smaller scale than what Id imagine youre building but I use an exacto #11 blade for all my scoring. Just remember a whats blade will make a nice straight cut, an even moderately dull blade will have you hating life.

For glue I use weldon #3. Its a solvent rather than a CA type. I do not recomend using CA at all on Styrene. Styrene has some flex to it that a solvent joint will have as well whereas a joint glued with CA will break apart very easily.

A few random unfinished examples of my work

Kindly ignore the bondene bottle thats what I used before I knew better.