Jason I used the tamiya gray primer, BUT you had better scrub this thing with warm soapy water (dawn) and let it dry well before doing so. I used a toothbrush with the dawn water in the diamond pattern and it seemed to have fixed the adhesion problem. Also, let that primer dry for a week before spraying your base coat and again, before the black or vice versa. Use the least tacky masking tape you can find.
J, sprung to mind, i shot my Snowspeeder an age ago, thats the grey resin from Mike, primed up like a gem TBH.
Not sure if its the same resin used on the new gen TIEs though.
I use a different resin than Steve....and i use NO mold release...not sure if Steve does or not. I don't even wash my own parts and rarely have adhesion problems with my own parts....I have noticed that a lot of paints seem to be having "fisheye" issues lately out of rattlecans, I bet there is a formulation change going on. Lately I have been either using Montana Gold for paints, or taking swatches to auto paint stores and having them match paint and put it into a spray can, ultra flat....the latter is expensive but worth it to match some stuff. The Montana Gold is awesome paint and they have a ton of cool colors, I am lucky to live near Yale and there is a good art store (not Michaels et all) that carries the full line....
I know this was about primer but thought it was noteworthy to mention the paints...
mike
Yeah Mike - it reminds me of the 1990s cars that used "eco-friendly" paints... and about 5 years down the line it all sluffed off! Remember seeing those Neons that drove around with big patches of bare metal or original primer?
Idiots. "Fixing" their product to the point of not working.
I just sprayed both Model Master and Rustoleum on separate parts of a wing and the cockpit ball of my Interceptor kit. Both primers stuck and I didn't wash the parts of first.
I did one of the new ties.I didn`t wash the resin and used Tamiya grey primer.Worked perfectly.I did check the parts before I decided not to wash them.They seemed very dry and clean so I didn`t worry.
Maybe its a resin problem with that particular TIE Jason? Maybe a bad mix, guess it happens, the last Timeslip Cloud car i tried to build, was like trying to prime wet putty.
Jason, I used Tamiya but it was all the bottled variety thru an airbrush. That may well be the difference. It would suck if they changed the rattle can formula and really screwed it up.
I literally used the same Tamiya can simultaneously on a Japanese resin kit (cast in China, lol), the Salzo casting on the Antique Viper, a Japanese kit cast in Japan, Shadowknight's Colonial Movers, and this TIE... Everything but the TIE sprayed fine. (I spray multiple projects simultaneously in marathon "priming" sessions)
But like I said in the other thread, I re-bathed the TIE in brake cleaner, and it seems a little better. Will do it again tonight.
Does the resin seem like it's leaching anything? If you lightly sand a small portion of a problem area just enough to scuff the shine, does it gloss over after a day or two? If so, it's definitely a bad mix/cure and no brand of primer will stick to that.
J, maybe try to seal it with Future.
I had (have !) the same looking result you got on your parts with some of my R2 castings and I put a coat of Future before applying the primer. It worked well, now I dont know if it would work for your, I would juggest to try on a small part first and let the Future dries for a day.
Get self etching primer this will bite into any resin, I use the brand SEM with all my resin kits, I take no more chances with any other primers and it goes on super smooth.
I can add that Mr. Resin Primer Surfacer loves Mike's grey resin, and Mike's grey resin loves it. Or at least this was the case a year ago; maybe they messed with the formula for that too now...