Starship project

[REL]

Sure, here's the bottom part of the nacelle. If you'll notice not one single flaw or bubble. I think I'm finally getting the hang of this.

Also because of the lip I put on the molds there'll be plenty of mating surface between the pieces.

http://sovereignreplicas.com/SK26.jpg
http://sovereignreplicas.com/SK27.jpg
http://sovereignreplicas.com/SK28.jpg
http://sovereignreplicas.com/SK29.jpg

Edit to add pictures, Do'h.

 

[REL]

Now the top part of the nacelle, I'm posting them as I'm pulling them out. This new technique of preparing the molds makes the castings turn out much much better.

http://sovereignreplicas.com/SK30.jpg
http://sovereignreplicas.com/SK31.jpg

 

[Kuhn Global]

KEWL.

Can't wait to see the Primary Hull.

 

[star-art]

Nice.. New technique of preparing the molds how exactly? And how did you get that nice lip on all the castings? Thanks..

 

[REL]

<div class='quotetop'>(star-art @ Jul 7 2006, 11:46 AM) [snapback]1275978[/snapback]</div>

Nice.. New technique of preparing the molds how exactly? And how did you get that nice lip on all the castings? Thanks..
[/b]

I'm sure the way of preparing the molds is well known to the people here, but I just found out about it. I was brushing the first layer of epoxy right into the silicone molds, what would happen is I'd get a beading effect, kind of like water on a waxed car. So now I'm powdering the molds with baby powder very thoroughly then blowing it out with compressed air. I then spray Mann 200 mold release I got for Smooth on into the mold and let it sit about 30 minutes. Now when I brush in the epoxy it will go in smooth and stick to the sides without beading up or running down.

The way I get the lip in the mold is to cut out a piece of plexi 1/8" smaller than the outer edge of the piece to be molded. When I make the mold the silicone will go under that lip, so when I make a cast it will have 1/8" of mating surface to the piece.

Here's a pic of the saucer mounted onto a 1/2" piece of plexi showing the lip.

After it's taken off the master you can see the lip on the molds, all I do is brush epoxy and chopped strand up into the lip. If you use a soft enough silicone, I use Moldmax 30, it will have no problem handling that undercut.

Here's some pics of the saucer cast I pulled out this morning.

 

[star-art]

Brilliant. Thanks..

 

[REL]

Here's the bridge casting.

 

[Boxster]

Whoa, looks like glass.

Your glassing and casting are creating another first of its kind in the hobby industry.

B

 

[REL]

Thanks man, I wouldn't got that far though. I'm making it up as I go along.

 

[REL]

Alrighty, I just did a test cast on the pylons. Flawless. Now I'll cast them with the brass tubes inside.

 

[Hand Solo]

Fantastic.

These progress reports are much appreciated. Glad you've got the pylon issue resolved as they look great.

 

[Kuhn Global]

Very nice indeed.

 

[REL]

Here's the finished cast of the pylon. While talking to one of the people that's going to build this up he said the brass tubes might not be large enough to hold all the wiring and he suggested brass channel instead.

It was a very tight fit but in no spot did the channel break the surface if the resin. I used 1/8" inch by 1/4" brass channel cast into the only straight part in the nacelle so I didn't have to bend it. A nice side effect is it made the pylon incredibly strong.

 

[BlindSquirrel]

Wow, really amazing work. I've really enjoyed watching the progress and WIP photos. Thanks.

Any chance you might put together a fiberglass tutorial to be archived for all us noobs? It seems like you learned a lot in this project and that knowledge would be valuable to many here.

 

[Kuhn Global]

VERY nice work Richard...

I'll bet John is loving this?.

 

[REL]

Thanks. It was John's idea LOL. I don't know if he's seen the pictures yet, he saw the test cast of the pylon and was very happy.

 

[Kuhn Global]

LOL... I'll bet John is ALL smiles today. I will call him soon.

 

[REL]

Some people have asked to see the cast pieces with some primer on them so they can see the details, since it's hard to see while they're clear. Here's a nacelle that didn't turn out quite so well, (too yellow) half way painted.

 

[Hand Solo]

^ That makes a difference. The details are really translating well.

 

[REL]

A partial kit has been shipped to the former ILM model maker (John Eblan) and I'll be posting pics of his build up as he progresses. I still need to finish up a few things but they shouldn't take me too much longer now.