Stargate G.D.O.

I'm working on both a SG1 GDO, and one of SD studios Atlantis GDO. The calculator Idea my work for the SG1 GDO, but I don't think it will work for the Atlantis version.

I've been looking for quite a wile for a calculator with buttons that will work for my SG1 GDO, to no avail. And the ones on the Atlantis version, are very, very, different. They don't look at all like something I would find on the average calc.

I mean, I may be able to cut them down from a calc, or phone, to fight the Atlantis version, but I don't it.

Since they set just proud of the pad they are in, on the Atlantis version. I have had it suggested that I push some sculpy into the existing frame work that is there, until it comes out the other side, just enough to simulate the buttons, and then use that to make a mold, and and then I could use hot glue, or silicon Caulk. or something like that to make the buttons. (again, for the Atlantis version, with the very small, very narrow buttons) This is a good ides (especially since the buttons, on the Atlantis version doesn't have any numbers one it.)

However, I'm very clumsy, and ever know my own strength, and when ever I do that kind of thing, I always end up braking the fragile resin frame work. So, I was hopping that some one has already made such a mold, or even better had a mold made off of the screen used props, that might be able to help me out on this. The kit I have is very, very, nice but it just does not have the buttons, or any suggestions on what I should do about that.
 
I have a SGA GDO and the insides blew me away how much they did for prop that was shown so little...

I am thinking about finding good machine guy and getting some these made as close as we can, would you guys be interested if i can keep cost down to couple hundred? This a nice chunk of aluminum and some nice work, will have to simply the inside but I think I can get the same look on the final product but it will take some serious work!

Here is mine at parade rest! Do not try this at home! B)
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That Atlantis GDO is beautiful!

Jason, if you are still looking for a keypad, here's one that I found that has about the right shape (well, in a screenshot I saw with Carter punching in numbers, and not the above reference shots): Amazon.com: RCA RCR412BN 4 Device Backlit Keypad Remote (Black): Electronics

However, these look like the soft keys, and not the hard transparent keys.

For hard keys:
Amazon.com: V-Tech VT5854 5.8GHz Cordless with Caller ID & ITAD (Silver/Black): Office Products

I'm guessing with the hard key phone, you could disassemble the keys and carefully scrape the letters off.
 
That Atlantis GDO is beautiful!
However, these look like the soft keys, and not the hard transparent keys.

They are VERY soft you can roll them up in your fingers and they pop right back into shape. A very soft silicone rubber I think...
 
The Atlantis screen used G.D.O.s where machined aluminum. (actually I've talked to a few folks that own screen used Atlantis GDOs and they all say theirs were machined. I have yet to hear of a screen used Atlantis GDO made of resin.

The Atlantis version does in dead have soft buttons, and I'm working on something for the reason casting of one of those GDOs, to give it buttons. (they wont be perfect, but they will be better then nothing.)

As for the SG-1 version. I have no idea what the screen used ones were made of, or what they used for the buttons. (though I'm pretty sure their version had hard, clear, buttons.) I have at least 2 reason SG-1 GDO kits, and neither has buttons. I have looked, and looked, for years, for good buttons for my kits. I have seen many phones at the thrift store, that were close, but the number have always been way off. However, I'm really liking No6's idea of scrapping the numbers off, and putting my own on them. It is a step I would rather not have to do, but it would be better then not having buttons at all. (Heck even if I scrapped the numbers off, and left them blank, it wouldn't look awful. Not accurate, but not awful.)
 
But if Stitch has a screen used one, it's easy enough to make resin castings of it. Making machined aluminum copies would just be needlessly more expensive.
 
They are super nice, I am just curious if anyone would like a machined one vs some resin copy, resin kits are dime dozen anymore...
 
Yeah, I mean, I already have a resin one cast right off a screen used Atlantis GDO. I picked it up last fall, from a member right here on the RPF, who was selling off left overs from a run he did. (I think I know who it was, but I don't want drop names, incase he doesn't want to be bothered by folks asking for kits he doesn't have, or may not want to do again.)

I hear there are others out there too.

A machined replica, would be screen accurate, and something that (as far as I know) has not been offered to the fans yet.

That said, I'm sure it would be way more then i could afford, so I would probably not be in on that run, unless it was a really low price, for a metal piece . I'm I don't expect a free one, but I don't have hundreds to spend on this. (well, I say that now, but lets see if it happens, and how cool they are. I may not be able to pass, if they are really cool:) )
 
I have been looking in to way to to this yet keep the costs down and make it affordable. What I really need is someone to work out the electronics and make then just as cool but not as complemented! IMO they went overboard with the insides... The works is awesome, but I am sure you could get the effect with way less work and parts!
 
exoray has exceeded their stored personal messages quota and can not accept further messages until they clear some space.

Can you clean out your PM's please,

Several years ago I did testing on multiple clear resins, pretty much every one I could source at the time... The end results were dismal except for two brands...

Also do you know good place to get clear resin we need it for another project!
 
The only way to do clear resins well is to have them pressure cast. You get every last bubble of air out of it and can get a really nice clear cast.
 
My guy knows how to do it he just cant find supplier for it anymore!

We need clear to do the it for SGA Chevrons...
 
Can you clean out your PM's please,

Done...

Also do you know good place to get clear resin we need it for another project!

Smooth On

Crystal Clear® Optically Clear Casting Resin from Smooth-On, Inc

I have heard if you call them you can get smaller units than the 1 gallon, although I can't confirm this...

They just started to offer up a clear epoxy as well, I'm going to test it shortly as it likely doesn't have the cure inhibition issues that urethanes have...

EpoxAcast® 690 Clear Casting Epoxy Resin Product Information

And you can get clear from Alumilite as well, a close 2nd in my testing several years ago, but they now offer 2 versions, at the time I tested they only offered one version so I don't know which one it was that I tested...

Alumilite - Products - Casting Resins - Alumilite Clear

Alumilite - Products - Casting Resins - Alumilite Water Clear

As I hinted at above clear urethanes have VERY temperamental cure issues, a digital scale, exact proportions and a post cure treatment are almost necessary to get decent results that are not tacky on the surface...

That and as said above you need to pressure cast for best results... I generally vacuum degas prior to pouring into the mold as well...
 
I have been looking in to way to to this yet keep the costs down and make it affordable. What I really need is someone to work out the electronics and make then just as cool but not as complemented! IMO they went overboard with the insides... The works is awesome, but I am sure you could get the effect with way less work and parts!

Well they have little EL sheet, 12v kits on ebay. (and other places on the net) I just ordered one for another project, but if it works out, you could just cut down one piece that would cover both the buttons, and the screen of a GDO, and have it all powered off of one tiny 12v battery. I've seen them smaller then one AAA battery. That would all fight very easaly in either the Atlantis, or SG GDOs. If it worked it would give a bright, even, light, behind the buttons, and the screen. (it's the same stuff they use to do that even light, you see behind a lot of watches.) You could either do it in blue EL sheet, or if that's not the right color, you could use White EL sheet, and then just put a colored filter between the EL sheet, and the back of the buttons, and screen.

That's kind of my plan for now, anyway.
 
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