Star trek VI - Assault Phaser - full metal build

Don't want to see this ad? Sign up for anRPF Premium Membershiptoday. Support the community. Stop the ads.


ScoobiJohn

Active Member
this is my favourite star trek phaser - it actually looks like a real weapon and i've always though form should follow function and the likes of the tng banana phaser always struck me as being entirely stupid and all but impossible to aim - as such i will make one removeable addition to this gun a trigger guard - quick test with bit of cardboard proved it fitted and would look fine so not haivng one seems reckless - two little screws and it will be able to be popped off though and to give a more screen authentic appearance

i've been wanting to do this for a while but i'm not sure i will do it justice as this will be my first real milling project - so far my mini mill has only been used as a drill press but you've got to get stuck in sometime and while i'm at it this thing is just screaming for a laser pointer inside :)

i will be basing it off what looks like a pretty accurate 3d print version (cant remember whos files i used sorry) i made a while back

so in opposition to Adam Savages philosophy of doing the hardest part first, i have done the easiest..... the nozel

20201103_183813.jpg
 

Don't want to see this ad? Sign up for anRPF Premium Membershiptoday. Support the community. Stop the ads.

ScoobiJohn

Active Member
ok so i sat down with my lump of aluminium and my mill and looked at it...... and looked at it and looked at it....etc etc. so anyone with milling experience got any advice to how i should split this up and what way to cut so i can get the complex shape done while still being able to hold it on the mill table?

i'm thinking to start with i should face off the top so that its the right thickness. then i think the heatsink and the bit behind it that should be a separate bit which would leave a nice flat edge along the top - my next move would then be to mill out the shape but how to i keep it in place? maybe i should have started with something simpler for my first mill work :)
 
Keep it in rectangle shape as long as you can before you start cutting the curves by the handle. If the top profile has any angle or draft to it you'll probably have to make some sort of jig to hold it to clamp down on it. Maybe the bottom where the pistol grip is has some tapped holes that you could bolt on a plate or a block to get your compound angles. That's how I'd go at it (machinist for 26 yrs)
 

ScoobiJohn

Active Member
(machinist for 26 yrs)
i think i'm going to break it up into smaller bits that i will screw together and the main body into halves so i can mill the shape then (having arranged it so i can still be clamped, mill the face down, wasteful i know but i think its the easiest option especially since will make hollowing out the internal spaces for the laser and trigger much easier, anyway lets hope that all works but my question to you is - i picked up some really tiny end mills like 2-3mm how deep a pass can you take with these - they look so fragile - i've broken much bigger taps and drill bits but need them to make a cool looking heat sink
 

Don't want to see this ad? Sign up for anRPF Premium Membershiptoday. Support the community. Stop the ads.

You're talking .080-.120ish. Not much of a cut depth wise, you'll snap them of in a heartbeat. Slow and steady and use coolant or lubricant and blow your chips out as you go. Aluminum will gum up the flutes quickly and snap. I'd only go about .010-.012 on a pass depth wise. Try a little at a time to get the feel for it and feed it by hand. A power feed has no conscience. Depending on the shape, you can also use a Jewelers saw. Think miniature saw blade on a mandrel. They come in different diameters and thicknesses. I've used these alot and they work well
 
Last edited:

ScoobiJohn

Active Member
sounds like it will be a slow process - as for autofeed :) lol my mill is a mini one - all manual - i'll have a look at jewelers saws it might make more sense
 

ScoobiJohn

Active Member
Ok finally got started on the main section - really pushing my mill by the time it's in the vice I have barely enough travel to cover the block of aluminium but I think I'll manage

Learned one lesson so far and that's to wear long sleeved t-shirt and gloves - so many chips uhh so itchy

Bit I'm worried about is the cowlling - I'm thinking I'll make a form out of wood then beat aluminium plate over it - any better suggestion welcome

20201116_164124.jpg
 
Ok finally got started on the main section - really pushing my mill by the time it's in the vice I have barely enough travel to cover the block of aluminium but I think I'll manage

Learned one lesson so far and that's to wear long sleeved t-shirt and gloves - so many chips uhh so itchy

Bit I'm worried about is the cowlling - I'm thinking I'll make a form out of wood then beat aluminium plate over it - any better suggestion welcome

View attachment 1368549
Rule #1 don't ever wear gloves on a machine. If you get snagged, this will wrap your hand up in an eye blink (seen it happen)
Rule#2 no long sleeves, same result (seen it happen). I'd hate to see you get hurt. If you're hating the chips, make a simple guard out of plexiglass to block the shards coming off. I've got them for 3 sides for my mill when I'm using a fly cutter. Just my .02, but be careful. I should add no jewelry or watches either
 

ScoobiJohn

Active Member
hmmm i've always obeyed those rules when using my wood lathe figured since i was just turning the table screws wouldn't be to dangerous but perhaps your right - dont want to loose fingers or worse
 

Don't want to see this ad? Sign up for anRPF Premium Membershiptoday. Support the community. Stop the ads.

ScoobiJohn

Active Member
Little update - finished milling out the basic shape and added some detailing now the interesting part where I try and get the exact same on the other side :) no dro on my mill and I basically did the first side by eye so could be tricky

The handle section will be removed so I can mill out the area for the trigger but left it for now so I can clamp it in the vice easily - the handle will the be milled out of another block of aluminium

Not sure how I'm going to do the clip just yet

20201118_141650.jpg
 

ScoobiJohn

Active Member
Ugh bad day - started on trying to shape the top cowl had it starting to get close and was smoothing with flat disk on the angle grinder and whumph it was torn from my grip and mangled :( never looked the same - to be honest it wasn't close enough anyway think I might go back to mill and.mill it out of a solid block and final shape with the grinder

So only real progress today was the non canon trigger guard but even that need a bit of a mod and m9ve it up a little - just a bit to large right now - and my 3d printer one falling on the floor a breaking so used the bits to see how the metal one was coming along

20201122_185650.jpg
 

ScoobiJohn

Active Member
Ok cowl out of solid aluminium started - tricky getting the shape right with a flap disk grinder but getting close - had planned to do it mostly on the mill and just final smoothing out the straight lines with the grinder but my mills isnt big enought to get the angles i needed
20201125_180620.jpg
 

ScoobiJohn

Active Member
does anyone in the uk know where i can get a blue laser of a power thats not dangerous but preferably with a visible beam and of course small enough to fit inside the phaser - not having much luck so far at this rate its going to be a romulan disruptor not a phaser
 

joberg

Master Member
Always loved that phaser design. It's looking good so far...yes, the cowl is the most difficult part of that build for sure. Lot's of curves;)
Careful with lasers and the possibility of injuring your eyes (or other people's). Eager to see your next update!
 

Don't want to see this ad? Sign up for anRPF Premium Membershiptoday. Support the community. Stop the ads.

ScoobiJohn

Active Member
Well I did some more work on the cowl but I'm not happy with it - the shape isn't quite right the bit of metal stock was fractionally to small - I thought I could make it work but it's to flat on the top

20201126_182122.jpg


So I'll start again but have learned a few things so next one should go more smoothly

As for the laser well you can see it sitting there - it does sadly fall into the dangerous category can pop balloons with it etc but in a night time test the beam is largely invisible dispite being significantly more powerful than an easily visable green laser - so my plan is to use it but have it disconnected by default and throw in some blue leds to make the heat sink glow
 

joberg

Master Member
Yep, cowl needs to be adjusted and rounded at the front. The main difficulty is that the top of it starts flat and suddenly rounds itself at the 3/4 mark toward the front. Careful with your vents at the side; they seem off in terms of alignment...
Keep up the good work and eager to see your next update.;)
 

Don't want to see this ad? Sign up for anRPF Premium Membershiptoday. Support the community. Stop the ads.

Top