Star Trek TOS Type 2 Phaser Free 3D Print Model -=Need Trekkie Assistance=-

Props3D

Member
Making a TOS Type 2 Phaser model for thingiverse. I couldn't find any good ones out there so just bit the bullet and made one up. Having the hardest time finding good reliable references though, most of what I could find was contradictory. That may be because it changed from ep to ep or prop to prop but the renders below are the best I could piece it together. The type 1 release works with a small pen spring and the model is divided up into 29 parts for quality printing/painting/assembly.

But before I release the model I want to get it as accurate as possible, so I could really use some more eyes on it. I've attached renders from all angles below. If you have the inclination to help with this I'd appreciate it, it is a free project so anyone's welcome to download/print their own after. If you want the files as they are now (for non-commercial use, I don't sell them so please don't) DM me for link. Just keep in mind they're 'as is' until release.

My instagram for build pics:

Will be released here after tweaking:

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Star_Trek_TOS_-_Type_2_Phaser_Crash_Fix_2022-Jan-24_10-41-52PM-000_CustomizedView6679480068.png

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Star_Trek_TOS_-_Type_2_Phaser_Crash_Fix_2022-Jan-24_10-42-22PM-000_CustomizedView20429338157.png

Star_Trek_TOS_-_Type_2_Phaser_Crash_Fix_2022-Jan-24_10-42-39PM-000_CustomizedView13536846512.png

Star_Trek_TOS_-_Type_2_Phaser_Crash_Fix_2022-Jan-24_10-43-17PM-000_CustomizedView12903980378.png
 

Props3D

Member
Looks fantastic!!! Eventually, I'd like to see a Midgrade version as well.
haha, I'm about to prove how green I am at prop talk but I don't really know what would have defined it as 'midgrade', I did google to no avail so I would really appreciate any insight.

I'm referencing from screen where I can but I can't find a definitive version since there were def multiple versions used. There's a few small details that are maybe 'off' in mine like to top silver cover being a too wide (which I'll fix) and the dial at the back prob being a bit too small (which I can find large and small versions used, it's maddening) but there's a lot of other small details I got that other replicas I sourced I think missed, like the design of the nozzle and the overall shape. Any pointers/references would be greatly appreciated :).

I think I'm just a couple of days from posting the project for free on thingiverse, it's to the point where I'm just back and forthing between different but legit references that had slightly different bits glued to them, at some point I just gotta stick a fork in it. Any advice before then would be really appreciated.
 

Jlewis

Sr Member
To answer your question above, the TOS Phasers as well as later props fall into 3 classes. First is "Hero" verson, well built for close film work with/without internal electronics/lights. Second is "MidGrade" versions, built good enough for not-so-distant film use and usually no internal electronics/lights. Third is "Background or Crapazoid" versions, roughly built to visually represent a given prop but not intended for close film use.
 

Dsimdude

Active Member
Props3D This looks pretty good, but there are a few tweaks I would make if you want to make it look a bit more "screen accurate." (which is a term that I will admit at the outset can mean a lot of different things to people).

I will attempt to download your photos and make some notations tomorrow. I've been studying this particular object for over 40 years, so forgive me if I get a bit "picky."

This is really sooooooo close. Nice job!
 

Props3D

Member
To answer your question above, the TOS Phasers as well as later props fall into 3 classes. First is "Hero" verson, well built for close film work with/without internal electronics/lights. Second is "MidGrade" versions, built good enough for not-so-distant film use and usually no internal electronics/lights. Third is "Background or Crapazoid" versions, roughly built to visually represent a given prop but not intended for close film use.
Thanks Jlewis! So I guess this is a "midgrade", I was going to make this electronic but I decided to do a more accessible version first and add the electronics later.

The type 1 detaches, but I removed all the external screws and hardware. The only thing needed that's not 3D printable now is a .22inx.5 (or equiv) spring. There's some pin holes in the body of the 1 and 2 for alignment, you can use 1.75 filament or toothpicks.

After this is done I'm going to add the hardware back and make it electronic with light/sound using the Mando blaster code and circuit from my github: Props3D - Overview The mando blaster code there can be used to make any prop a light/sound model, but it's still a wip so take it for what it's worth.

Here's a short video of what is library can do:

Here's the current 3D print models for anyone who wants to give it a go in it's current state: https://www.dropbox.com/s/1kgwe8xtevvu44v/Models.zip?dl=1
 
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Props3D

Member
Props3D This looks pretty good, but there are a few tweaks I would make if you want to make it look a bit more "screen accurate." (which is a term that I will admit at the outset can mean a lot of different things to people).

I will attempt to download your photos and make some notations tomorrow. I've been studying this particular object for over 40 years, so forgive me if I get a bit "picky."

This is really sooooooo close. Nice job!
Much appreciated! I was going to release it tomorrow but I'll hold off until I hear from you.

Here's a full STL of the model in it's current state if you want to see it from different angles: https://www.dropbox.com/s/dinzo8s13x4lng3/Star Trek TOS - Type 2 Phaser v55.stl?dl=1
 

chazzychaz

Well-Known Member
Did a few more tweaks and printed it up, only non-3d printed part needed is a spring:

View attachment 1538348

View attachment 1538347

The lip (rim) that stradles the P1 cradle is too pronounced, especially at the back. It is too thick, i.e it needs to be thinner width wise. Overall its good, but indicative of the toy phasers available in the past.
 

Props3D

Member
While I was on the subject of TOS I did this desktop viewer for a 3.5in PC resource monitor, if anyone is interested in that I can post it as well.
StarTrekDeskMonitorCPU_2022-Jan-30_04-23-02AM-000_CustomizedView10217846553.png

more renders and a pic of the resource monitor screen:
RENDER SET ON INSTAGRAM
 
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Dsimdude

Active Member
Much appreciated! I was going to release it tomorrow but I'll hold off until I hear from you.

Here's a full STL of the model in it's current state if you want to see it from different angles: https://www.dropbox.com/s/dinzo8s13x4lng3/Star Trek TOS - Type 2 Phaser v55.stl?dl=1
Here's my "two cents" on your phaser model. Hopefully, you can make sense of it all. Let me know if you have any questions.

Here is a website were you will find great photos:

www.startrekpropauthority.com

And here is a direct link to an actual screen used hero phaser:
Rare Photos of the Greg Jein TOS "Hero" Type II Pistol Phaser

Here are my notes (all "see photos" are in reference to the website listed above. And the below refers to the photos attached):

Phaser_Fix_001

1. This top piece was made from a thin piece of aluminum or tin. It actually wraps around the top from back to front. You show this as being inlaid... nope.

2. This "button" was actually the flat side of a piece of acrylic that rotated up to raise the "crispy" (deflector) aluminum grid. It looks inset, which is good, but it doesn't look like enough of the "button" is visible. In this image, it should look a bit "taller" as opposed to "wider." (width is good).

3. This jewel was set on a gold gear-looking like piece. Check out "watch jewel."

4. This piece is VERY specifically ribbed (two down the middle with a ribbed edge on each side) – and that motif continues all the way to the end of piece 7.

5. This knob was notched -- four separate hubs.

6. "The Ten Turn" - This dial was numbered in a circle 1 to 10 - each number separated by 10 tick marks, the fifth "tick" being a line between each number. Each "tick" of the dial would increase the value by 0.1 -- i.e. 4, 4.1, 4.2, 4.3.....etc. Therefore, the dial has 100 total “ticks.” (this may be hard to create, so many modelers leave this out).

7. Once again, this piece has the two ribs down the middle and ribbed edges like piece 4 (It is essentially the same piece, with a hole drilled in it for the Ten Turn. It also terminates at the end of the phaser, not here as in the image.)

8. These look BEAUTIFUL! But, unfortunately, no phaser ever had those fins look so good! They are rounded here, but bend to a right angle before they enter the "body" of the phaser.


Phaser_Fix_002

1. There is a definite rounded inset "void" area in front of the fins here (see photos). While it looks great, the fins never butt directly up against the phaser body wall as you have them do here.

2. This is NOT the correct shape for this piece! (See photos). Also, this piece fits into a ring that lined the hole. This allowed for it to be turned on the Hero model, so it looked like it did something.

3. YOU'RE MISSING THE BOTTOM CAP AND BRASS PLATE! There was a large brass screw head for the long screw that held the battery pack (handle), an end cap that covered it and a brass plate that covered all of that. Gotta have those if you want to look "authentic."


Phaser_Fix_003

1. "Watch Jewel" -- This jewel looks inset. Nope. It sat on top of a gold "gear."

2. The aluminum "crispy" looks great, but it lay on top of a copper plate (painted black) that raised it when you turned the brass dial. This opening in the top of the P1 was rectangular. So... The crispy shape is fine, but it should look like it is sitting on TOP of this plate and not inlaid like you show it. The corners (2 & 3) under this crispy should be squared, not round (so you have a squared off "shelf" underneath a "crispy" that has rounded corners. Make sense?)

3. See (2) above.

4. The thickness of this side wall of the phaser body looks a bit thin to me. They should be a little thicker.

5. LOOKS GREAT! But... nope. There is a clear plastic (acrylic) window here and it sits in a "ledge" that goes all around the inside. The P1 then just sits behind it... no receptacle looking notch like this.

5A. (Sorry, I miss numbered here) This pattern looks GREAT, but it's not correct. There are no convex parts of the outer rings. And the “ribs” aren't quite right, either. (See photos).

6. It looks like this "trough" between the Popsicle sticks (yes, that's what they're called, because that's what they were -- actually Popsicle sticks slit down the middle and glued onto each side of the battery pack!) is rounded -- convex. Nope. The space between the Popsicle sticks was flat.


Phaser_Fix_004

1. Once again, there is a rounded, inset void area in front of these fins.

2. The P1 was hollow with a top and bottom shell. The side "trim" looks like it's sitting a little too high on the side, and there is no shell seam. We should see a seam here that runs all the way around, front to back. It runs directly under the trim.

3. This seam looks a little too forward and it should be more pronounced. It's a seam, not an edge.

4. Nozzle rings -- These are VERY SPECIFIC -- but this is close (See Photos).

5. Again, no rounded trough, and you're missing the whole bottom cap and plate (Which should be incorporated into this handle's length, not added, because that looks good).


Phaser_Fix_005

1. Top Plate -- made of thin metal -- lays on top and folds over from back to front. NOT INLAYED.

2. This piece lays inside a ring and the "knob" shape is wrong.

3. There is a weird dip in your model's body shape here. Don't know what it is but it makes the side ribs here look like they curve downward -- the body shape doesn't "dip" (curve inward) and the ribs never appear as if they they curve down when they terminate.

4. Nice touch -- the reflection of the brass in the side rib of the P1. NOPE! The ribs were made of aluminum and would never have reflected things like a mirror would have!


Phaser_Fix_006

1. Seams -- one under the side rib from front to back -- the bottom seam looks a little too forward and needs to be more pronounced. It's a seam, not a line.

2. The rounded inset void in front of the fins here.

3. The edges here look fine, but they are a bit too perfect. It's a prop made of fiberglass -- slightly round those sharp edges!

4. (See 3 above).
 

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Dsimdude

Active Member
I stand corrected...

Phaser_Fix_001
Item 8 above

After checking a few images, I did find one with fins that seemed to have a shape like yours (where they terminate into the body). So ignore item 8.

You still need the "void" space in front of them, though.
 

Props3D

Member
I stand corrected...

Phaser_Fix_001
Item 8 above

After checking a few images, I did find one with fins that seemed to have a shape like yours (where they terminate into the body). So ignore item 8.

You still need the "void" space in front of them, though.
Awesome, thanks for all the time and suggestions, I'll work through them after work and post updated renders/stls. That's quite the breakdown, really happy I started posting some of my build threads here, I finally found where the experts reside!
 

Dsimdude

Active Member
Awesome, thanks for all the time and suggestions, I'll work through them after work and post updated renders/stls. That's quite the breakdown, really happy I started posting some of my build threads here, I finally found where the experts reside!
Like I said, you are SO close with this model. Did you do this from scratch? If so... nice! Hopefully the images on the Star Trek Prop Authority website will help you tremendously. Those are the "real deal." Best of luck and I can't wait to see your final .stl's! (FYI -- This is my favorite sci-fi hand prop of all time, so I'm kind of partial to it.)
 

Props3D

Member
Like I said, you are SO close with this model. Did you do this from scratch? If so... nice! Hopefully the images on the Star Trek Prop Authority website will help you tremendously. Those are the "real deal." Best of luck and I can't wait to see your final .stl's! (FYI -- This is my favorite sci-fi hand prop of all time, so I'm kind of partial to it.)
Thanks, yes it's a scratch build. I sorta wish I had done more research to begin with, I think a few of my reference images were off now I check the site and the great feedback you've provided. Got invested in my R2 build all week and circling back on this one tomorrow, gotta start picking one project at a time!
 

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