Star Trek TOS Phaser - Instructions to disassemble your Master Replicas P2

TOS Phaser

Member
The following instructions were posted on several phaser threads (ASAP, TPZ etc) back in the early 2010s. (I believe?)

I have included the method that I used to take my second MR P2 apart because the P2 emitter would not light. I suspected the LED square had fallen out of the back of the emitter. Which is why I bought it because I was certain I could repair it having taken my first one apart because of the emitter thread stripping problem.

NOTE: If you are not good with your hands - you should let a professional prop maker do this for you. There are few (if any) replacement parts available now? So be very careful if you decide to perform this procedure yourself.

IMPORTANT NOTE: I am posting the following list for historical purposes only and I DO NOT offer any warranty of any kind.
Having written this - the great thing about a forum is - its like "open source" software - there are many skilled members (prop makers / "crafts persons" /etc) on this forum. So if I have made a mistake - in typing up the list - it will be caught and corrected.

I will post (by quote and reply) the next steps to remove the aluminum nozzle from the P2 body as soon as I can. Obviously if someone else has their list for the next steps - please share. Thanks in advance.

(I wore a pair of white cotton gloves each time I performed the following procedure.)

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Instructions to disassemble your Master Replicas P2

Read through each instruction first and look at the included annotated photos. If you have questions – post them.

1. Remove the P1

2. Remove the power pack grip (handle)

3. Holding the P2 shells together - Gently pull the rear fin assembly straight off the back (this assembly is very delicate and can be easily bent). - - I DO NOT recommend using tools of any kind! The rear fin cut-out (on the P2 body) has a slight groove for each fin clip to engage in the front.

P2 rear fin clip assembly and P2 body groove.png


4. Holding the P2 shells together - unscrew the flat head screw on the bottom front. - - Pick the right size screw driver (blade width and thickness) to avoid damaging the paint on the screw head.

Disassemble MR P2-C.png


5. Still holding the P2 shells together - Carefully place the P2 shells on a padded surface - left side down so that the P1 release pin is not pushed.

6. GENTLY AND CAREFULLY - lift the right side shell STRAIGHT OFF. If you pull if off at an angle the forehead clip will bend!


MR P2 Disassembly step 5.png


NOTE: I held the left side of the P2 in my left hand and gently pulled the right side away from the left side with the forehead clip facing up so I could see the alignment of the clip and feel any change in resistance. And no parts fell out. Also since I had inserted a Rod.com P1 in my first MR P2 - the rubber P1 "grip" in the forehead sight window did not stick to the right P2 shell. So on my second MR P2 - I pulled on the rubber P1 "grip" fingers before I started the procedure. - - The rubber tends to stick to the paint over time.
 
Last edited:

Your message may be considered spam for the following reasons:

  1. Your new thread title is very short, and likely is unhelpful.
  2. Your reply is very short and likely does not add anything to the thread.
  3. Your reply is very long and likely does not add anything to the thread.
  4. It is very likely that it does not need any further discussion and thus bumping it serves no purpose.
  5. Your message is mostly quotes or spoilers.
  6. Your reply has occurred very quickly after a previous reply and likely does not add anything to the thread.
  7. This thread is locked.
Top