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Message: <blockquote data-quote="Corellianexports" data-source="post: 5319741" data-attributes="member: 497">After letting the glue dry overnight, we're ready for final assembly.  <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite1" alt=":)" title="Smile    :)" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":)" />The screws used for this prop are basically the same size as the ones used on sunglasses and are so small that they had to be special ordered along with a special tap for threading the holes in the tube.  I use a small, plastic lid to keep them in place.  These are really easy to drop and lose so be sure to always keep them near the center of your work area so if they do fall, they fall onto the work area.I carefully install two of the bolts into the switch that is already in place:[ATTACH]1579631[/ATTACH]To tighten the screws, I use a 1/16", slotted screwdriver:[ATTACH]1579632[/ATTACH]With the screws tightened, I install the button battery and test the switch.  The LED is still lighting correctly, so we're good.I take the second switch and push it into the area next to the first switch:[ATTACH]1579645[/ATTACH]The two remaining bolts are installed:[ATTACH]1579635[/ATTACH]The battery holder with the battery gets pushed inside the other end of the tube.Two, rubber, black "o" rings are wrapped around the ends of the end caps and lightly pushed into place.  The rear cap is simply pushed into the end of the tube where the battery holder is housed.  The front cap with the hole is aligned with the LED:[ATTACH]1579637[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]1579638[/ATTACH]I tried using a diffuser cap, light panel and a piece of clear plastic in front of the LED, but all of these simply reduce the amount of light emitted, so I found that just leaving it as is works best.  It also helps to give the impression that something is being "scanned" which is what we want.Movie:[ATTACH=full]1579640[/ATTACH]</blockquote>

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