Star Trek III Federation Phaser - Restoration

Discussion in 'Replica Props' started by Skyler101, May 22, 2012.

  1. Skyler101

    Skyler101 Sr Member

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    Hey Guys...

    Been cleaning up things back home due to a move internationally, and came across my Star Trek III phaser someone passed onto me in a trade.

    I have no idea where it came from, nor who made it, and when it came into my possession, it was in a very sorry state. After years, it still is in this state. :unsure

    As much as I would love a Coyle version of this phaser (after all, he did build them), unless I win the lottery, its not going to happen. My best bet is to restore this one the best way I can, and add it to my small collection of things I never want to part with!

    So, here is why I started this thread.

    I get really nervous when I start trying to restore things. There are many ways to get to the result you want, but I seem to go the long way around, and then am nicer really happy with the results.

    So, I want to throw out a shootout to everyone here to help me with each state, and work threw the restoration. Im asking for advice, all work will be done by me.

    When the next step comes up, I'll ask for advice. Simple. For me, I would love to work out a good workflow when it comes to finishing kits and props.

    So, here are the pictures of the pieces as it is. I have noticed that one of the switches has foil on it, making it look metallic, and the phaser one has some colours on the switches.

    Check out the pics, see what kind of shape she's in...

    Thanks in advance for all the advice...

    -Skyler101
     
  2. Skyler101

    Skyler101 Sr Member

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    Step One : Stripping the paint

    Alright, so you have seen the pics. It looks like there was no primer used on the casting, and the paint is rather thin, although in some areas are built up with paint.

    So, whats the best way to get the paint off? I don't want to melt the casting. Whats the best method? Sandpaper? Mineral turps? Break fluid?

    First question is up, pics will be posted!

    -Skyler101
     
  3. robn1

    robn1 Master Member

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    You can try brake fluid, Simple Green or Easy Off to remove the paint. These won't affect the plastic. If the paint is too tough for these, maybe lacquer thinner or acetone can be used. It depends on the material, assuming it's urethane resin it should be OK. These will also remove any filler or putty used, so you'll have to redo that.
     
  4. Skyler101

    Skyler101 Sr Member

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    Cool robn1....

    Do you soak the piece, or wipe it on with a rag?

    -Skyler101
     
  5. robn1

    robn1 Master Member

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    Lacquer thinner and acetone is wiped with a rag, it should remove the paint upon contact. The others need to soak. Of those I've only used Easy Off, it needs to soak an hour or two, then scrub with an old toothbrush. It may take two or three applications to get it all. It worked fine on hobby paints like Testors, but other paints may be too tough for it. I always use thinner or acetone as long as it won't harm the piece, resin is fine but styrene plastic will melt.

    There was a thread from a year or so ago where someone mentioned some kind of environmentally friendly cleaner. I don't remember the name, purple something or another. They said it works great for removing paint without harming plastics, and didn't stink as bad as the other stuff.
     
  6. Michael Bergeron

    Michael Bergeron Legendary Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    If it were me I'd go at it with some 400grit sandpaper, hit it with some primer and then borrow my friend Mike's automotive paints to paint her up. ;)
     
  7. Skyler101

    Skyler101 Sr Member

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    Oh, we think in the same way...

    But I have some repair work to do first. I hope to have her ready to paint very soon!

    -Skyler101
     
  8. -E-

    -E- Active Member

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    You can also soak it overnight in Pine Sol. Most of the paint will wipe off. You can use a tooth brush to get into the nooks and crannies if needed.
     
  9. Zombie_61

    Zombie_61 Master Member

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    You're probably thinking of "Purple Power", available in the automotive section of any Walmart. I've used it to remove paint and chrome plating from styrene model kit parts; it works rather quickly (overnight) and hasn't harmed any of the plastic parts so far.

    Regardless of what product you use Skyler, even if it says it's biodegradable or environmentally friendly, once you've contaminated it with whatever it removes from that phaser it no longer is, and must be disposed of accordingly. And don't forget any necessary safety precautions--rubber gloves at least, and safety glasses or goggles if scrubbing is involved.
     
  10. neilo1

    neilo1 Well-Known Member

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    Hey Gil,

    I just stripped an Alien Ressurection pistol with Easy-off, stuff worked great. Roughed the surface up first with some sandpaper, sprayed the Easy-off on and let sit for an hour. Then I ran it under warm water and scrubbed with a plastic brush. Did this twice and all paint came off. There was no detail loss or damage to the resin.

    Cheers,
    Neil.
     
  11. Skyler101

    Skyler101 Sr Member

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    Hey Guys....

    Wrote a whole right up for you all, and the internet ate it :(

    Found some mineral turps, and started wiping it over the Phaser One. There was only a small layer of paint, and it came off very easily Using an old toothbrush, I got 98% of the paint off, except for the stuff that stained the resin.

    The Phaser 2 was a lot harder, as it was a different paint, an put on a lot thicker. I ended up having to soak the piece in the turps, and then attack it with a toothbrush. After an hour of work, I got the pain off both pieces.

    With the paint off, I noticed a number of things that needed to be addressed. The casting were raw, so they need some clean up. The button on the left side was plastic, and needs to be replaced. The trigger is actually a separate cast piece, and it came off really easily. I would love to replace the trigger with the correct button so it can be pushed. :)

    Anyone know what button was used?

    The three "fins" on rather side are broken, so I need to work out how to either repair or replace those.

    Below are the pics....

    -Skyler101
     
  12. robn1

    robn1 Master Member

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  13. Skyler101

    Skyler101 Sr Member

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    And that my friends, is why Im a member of the RPF! (y)thumbsup:love:thumbsup:thumbsup

    Thanks Robn1, just one small question, do styrene half rounds come in the correct size? Im not familiar with the product. May have to wait till I'm back in the US to get some...

    Thanks again...

    -Skyler101
     
  14. robn1

    robn1 Master Member

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    I don't know the size you need, but they come in a wide variety. I would guess 1/16 or 3/64.
     
  15. Caveneau

    Caveneau Sr Member

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  16. Michael Bergeron

    Michael Bergeron Legendary Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    I have this one as well, the push button is correct but make sure to paint it. :)

    For styrene half rounds you can find them in any hobby shop out here Gil! (as well as styrene anything)
     
  17. Skyler101

    Skyler101 Sr Member

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    Can I pick up the button locally at "The Source"?

    As for styrene, well, I come from the land down under... I'm lucky to find styrene sheets! :p

    -Skyler101
     
  18. Michael Bergeron

    Michael Bergeron Legendary Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Should be able to. Since you have a few months I'll check the next time I'm there. ;)
     
  19. Skyler101

    Skyler101 Sr Member

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    Thanks... I think that moves me forward to the next stage...

    Step 2 : Prep

    Alright. This kit was not stander or anything before painted. I have to say the paint did hide a lot of defects. At this point, I cleaned up the inner ring around the P1 with a scalpel and a piece of styrene, but now its time to prep the full body....

    I'm still trying to wok out if I should sand off the fins, and put them back on, or use putty to fill in the areas that have broken off. Any suggestions?

    Then its sanding time. What grits would you suggest before priming?

    Cant wait to get this phaser finished, I need to have a quickdraw with Orange Blend! :)

    -Skyler101
     
  20. Michael Bergeron

    Michael Bergeron Legendary Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    I start with 200grit for heavy removal and then move to 400grit. That usually is good enough but on the odd occasion I'll do an extra pass with 600.

    For the fins it depends how bad they are. I'd probably try putty first but if that's not working go with removing them and putting them back with styrene.
     
  21. Skyler101

    Skyler101 Sr Member

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    Yeah, Im thinking about seeing if I can get some plumbers epoxy and give it a whirl...If not I can always sand them off and reapply them...

    -Skyler101
     

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