Star Trek eFX repair/modifications

greycobalt

New Member
Earlier this year I acquired the eFX Mark IX tricorder and I've been pretty thrilled with it. However, the flip cover is very weighty and if the tricorder is held in any position to allow it, it will just fall open. It's a pet peeve of mine for some reason, and the only disappointment I had with the replica. Is there any reasonable way to make it stick better, or better yet to create an actual ratcheting effect? I'm 100% new to props, so sorry if this is a ridiculous question. I know if it was feasible I assume eFX would have done it, but it would still be cool to have. :)

Also, I have the Master Replica's First Contact phaser, but it's taken some wear over the past 8 years or so. What's the best type of paint to use to touch it up, and the best way to color match it? And for some reason, the very front emitter is a little loose. Nothing horrible, but if you grab it you can wiggle it side to side slightly. Is there a way to tighten that up?

Thanks for indulging a noob! :D
 
The Efx is great for what it is being made of metal.

I don't think there is much you can do with it though especially the ratcheting sound as that was added in post on the originals
 
The eFX has a great ratchet sound effect that is very correctly timed. Unfortunately, the Master Replicas First Contact Phaser only matches the Master Replicas tricorder. So, I think your best option is to paint your tricorder with Medium Gray Metallic such as Plastikote #1534 or Light Smoke Metallic. That will match your phaser and tricorder. If you want to, repaint the phaser with one of these colors.:cool
 
Earlier this year I acquired the eFX Mark IX tricorder and I've been pretty thrilled with it. However, the flip cover is very weighty and if the tricorder is held in any position to allow it, it will just fall open. It's a pet peeve of mine for some reason, and the only disappointment I had with the replica. Is there any reasonable way to make it stick better, or better yet to create an actual ratcheting effect? I'm 100% new to props, so sorry if this is a ridiculous question. I know if it was feasible I assume eFX would have done it, but it would still be cool to have. :)

Also, I have the Master Replica's First Contact phaser, but it's taken some wear over the past 8 years or so. What's the best type of paint to use to touch it up, and the best way to color match it? And for some reason, the very front emitter is a little loose. Nothing horrible, but if you grab it you can wiggle it side to side slightly. Is there a way to tighten that up?

Thanks for indulging a noob! :D

Oddly enough, I had the same problem with the emitter on my MR First Contact phaser. All I did was hold the emitter in one spot where I could dab a little apoxy under it with a needle. Then, hold in down in that position until the glue dried. By applying with a needle, you NEVER run the risk of it oozing out when you squeeze the emitter into place. You can't see ANY residue and now my emitter is firmly in place.

As for the eFX Tricorder, you can try what I did, which was the following:

1) Remove the back door.
2) Remove the inside panel that holds the battery and speaker carefully as to not pull on the wires.
3) Install a small earth magnet all the way to the far left and close to the main board by hot gluing it into place.
4) BEFORE you do hot glue it, hold it in place with your finger and open/close the door to make sure it doesn't interfere with the workings of the electronics. If placed properly, it WILL NOT.
5) After the glue dries, replace the inside panel and rear door.

Now, when you turn it upside down, you can literally shake it sideways and up/down and the door stays shut!! I've done it to all three of mine and it makes a huge difference.

As for the closing ratchet, it is completely timed WRONG due to the fact that it waits for the same door magnet to make contact with the main reed switch again before it can play the "closing" sound. Had they used a separate reed switch and separate magnet, it could be timed correctly. I've had it done to one of mine that was converted to a Medical version. Here's a video for proof that eFX could've done it right: Star Trek EFX Mark X Medical Tricorder modified custom prop - YouTube

If you have any other questions, you can PM me.
-Erik
 
The eFX has a great ratchet sound effect that is very correctly timed. Unfortunately, the Master Replicas First Contact Phaser only matches the Master Replicas tricorder. So, I think your best option is to paint your tricorder with Medium Gray Metallic such as Plastikote #1534 or Light Smoke Metallic. That will match your phaser and tricorder. If you want to, repaint the phaser with one of these colors.:cool

Actually, the closing ratchet is timed wrong. It plays much too late.
 
Sorry, you're right. Made a mistake there. The closing ratchet on mine plays when the tricorder is almost closed. Made a mistake there. It's supposed to play when you start closing the tricorder. By the way, erik814u2, I have a question. I recently bought a Mark IX Science Tricorder on eBAY. It is not EFX. The item is new and in great condition. But one thing is wrong. There is no magnet to keep the door closed. Any suggestions? Thanks. And please reply over the RPF only, my email is broken.

And also, I love your tricorders. Always well built.
 
Sorry, you're right. Made a mistake there. The closing ratchet on mine plays when the tricorder is almost closed. Made a mistake there. It's supposed to play when you start closing the tricorder. By the way, erik814u2, I have a question. I recently bought a Mark IX Science Tricorder on eBAY. It is not EFX. The item is new and in great condition. But one thing is wrong. There is no magnet to keep the door closed. Any suggestions? Thanks. And please reply over the RPF only, my email is broken.

And also, I love your tricorders. Always well built.

Hey! Thank you for the complimets. It is ALWAYS appreciated.

I can definitely help you with your new Tricorder. Can you send me a private message through the RPF? If you can, just send me one. If you can't, reply here and I will do my best to help you. I would need to see pictures of the Tricorder's insides with the rear panel off. This way, I can better determine if anything will interfere with the main electronics. Basically, I need to see where the main reed switch is placed inside.

Hope to hear from you soon.
-Erik
 
I will be busy late tonight. I will send you some pictures tomorrow in the morning. And again, thanks for the great help. And I have another question for you. I see that you have a lot of tricorders on youtube. Is there some place you get them from where they are cheap? Just curious. Thanks again.
 
I will be busy late tonight. I will send you some pictures tomorrow in the morning. And again, thanks for the great help. And I have another question for you. I see that you have a lot of tricorders on youtube. Is there some place you get them from where they are cheap? Just curious. Thanks again.

The Tricorders you see of mine on my YouTube channel I built myself. They do not come pre-built. There are a few here and there that I got from somebody else, but that was years ago. Pretty much the phasers and Tricorders you see on my channel from the past year were all built by myself.
 
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