Spirit Ghostbusters Proton Pack electronics question

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Funky

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
This is a long shot but I may get lucky...

My nine year old wants to be a Ghostbuster for Halloween. I know I’m getting an early start but I want to work on it as time permits. I want to make the best pack possible for as little money as possible. This stated out as GameStop had the Afterlife Nutrino wand on clearance for 40.00. (BTW, this thing is off the hook!) and I also picked up a Spirit pack for 30.00. Now, keep in mind, he’s nine. He doesn’t care about accuracy, just close enough.
So here’s my question.
The wand that comes with the pack was replaced with the new one. What’s great about it is the new wand is completely self contained with lights and sound. As a result, I had to clip the wires from the old wand to the pack. The are 4 wires total (black, green, red, green) these wires attach to the lights and sound in the pack which tandems to the battery pack. I’m a decent prop builder but when it comes to electronics I screw it up. What do I need to do with the exposed four wires so that when I turn the battery pack on the original lights fire up?
I’ve scoured the web and all I could find is for upgraded light kits, but I’d just like to use what’s already there.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!!!
 

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13doctorwho

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Separate the wire so they don't touch (cover with some tape) and turn it on and see what happens. The odds are the wire going to the wand won't effect the pack lights. If it doesn't work with the wan disconnected you may have to simulate the wand load with some resistors.
 

Funky

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Resistors. Yup that’s what I need as it won’t work without the original wand as that’s what activated the electronics.
Again, clueless on how to proceed.
 

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teslabe

Active Member
If I understand the question, you want to hookup the new wand to the Spirit backpack, is that right? First thing I'd do is use a volt/ohm meter to be sure the voltage and polarity of the wires are compatible otherwise you may blowout ether or both props, electronics are not forgive when it comes to reverse polarity or over voltage. Can you post better pictures of the circuits in both items?
 

13doctorwho

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
If the pack lights are triggered from the old wand that makes it more complicated. Obviously there is some switch in the old wand. Are you wanting the new wand to activate the pack, or are you wanting to turn on the pack lights and leave them on independent of the new wand? It makes a huge difference. Personally I would keep the pack on it's own circuit and not connect it to the new wand because of compatibility problems that may take a little finesse to overcome. Post close up pictures of the old wand innards and a close up of the electronics in the pack please.
 

Funky

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
If the pack lights are triggered from the old wand that makes it more complicated. Obviously there is some switch in the old wand. Are you wanting the new wand to activate the pack, or are you wanting to turn on the pack lights and leave them on independent of the new wand? It makes a huge difference. Personally I would keep the pack on it's own circuit and not connect it to the new wand because of compatibility problems that may take a little finesse to overcome. Post close up pictures of the old wand innards and a close up of the electronics in the pack please.
You absolutely understand my issue!!!

the new wand will be completely independent of the pack. I just want to flip the button on the battery pack and it lights up. Nothing fancy.
 

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13doctorwho

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Look at the old wand electronics. The ghetto way I would do it is wire everything back to the electronics in the old wand. Remove the electronics from the old wand and move it into the pack. Hot glue is your friend. Then all you have to do is jumper a more pack friendly switch across the old switch and mount it accessible with the pack sealed up. The only potential problem is the pack electronics may not run continous when the switch is on... it may run a preprogrammed time and stop. In which case you'll need to press the switch every time you want the lights to run. It really would help to see a picture of the old wand innards...
 

Funky

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Here is the inside of the original wand. The wires would have come through the bottom of the handle into the pack before I cut them, but if need be I can retire them if in fact, that’s the solution.
 

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v137a

Well-Known Member
After a quick skim of a couple of GBfans threads, I didn't see a good "combine the two" thread. It sounds like the wand turns itself off after a minute, so if you want the pack lights to stay on, maybe a separate pack switch?
 

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