SLIDERS: Egyptian Timer [REV. 5]

Myself and my good friend at LIGHTBENDERS have been developing over the past 6 months a new version of his Timer.


The EGYPTIAN Timer [REV. 1] YouTube video:


The EGYPTIAN Timer [REV .5] YouTube video:


[REV. 5] CHANGE LOG:
  • Preamble changed from "GEnSEr" to SEASON 5 "52 52 52"
  • Speaker is now MOUNTED to the underside of the TOP board
  • 7-Segment displays ALL changed from BLACK to GREY
  • Solder-Mask changed from GREEN to PURPLE
  • *** GRAYHILL SERIES 87 MATRIX Keypad NOW WORKS ***
  • Emitter LED's BOTH on unique parallel paths
  • SCARAB LED on unique path
  • SCARAB redesigned by 'Curious Goods Inc.'
  • Processor UPGRADED to a 32-bit,64-pin 512kB Micro-controller
I have also begun to track down materials for the construction of the prop itself.


MATERIALS:
  1. RED #2423 ACRYLIC (2 1/16" W x 4 3/8" L x 1/16" H) [EXACT COLOR# used by PROP MASTER]
  2. RCA RCU4GLW Remote (RCU4GLWC/RCU700)
  3. Acid etched MAGNESIUM plate (WINGED SCARAB designed by Curious Goods)
  4. GRAYHILL Series 87 (MATRIX/7-PIN version) [EXACT KEYPAD used by PROP MASTER]
  5. RED LED FLAT-TOP (Winged SCARAB LED (Blinking/NON Blinking)
  6. WHITE LEDs (EMITTER LEDs)

NEED:
  1. BRASS TUBE (3/8" or 1/2" diameter) [RIBBED]
  2. GLASS/PLASTIC/ACRYLIC Lens for EMITTERS
  3. SILK-SCREEN Printed 'HRS MINS SECS'
  4. CNC cut ACRYLIC face-plate

PICTURE [MY CURRENT BOARD]:
20181219_071925 (1).jpg



NOTE: Before I mount it into the RCU4GLW Remote, I have it hooked up with the 4 slotted AAA Battery unit to supply the 6 Volts required for the Circuit. The OTHER black device attached is the PROGRAMMING INTERFACE. The surface mounted speaker is on the underside. The WHITE dots on the bottom half are the push button domes for the RCU4GLW PIE keypad. NOT pictured here is before we completed the programming for the GRAYHILL Series 87 Keypad. The Keypad functions as a modifying device the resets behaviors, turns LED's on/off are replaces the need for the 3 toggle switches on the ORIGINAL prop used on the show. The REAL prop from the show used 3 toggle switches to turn off the LED lights while still counted down. It also changed the state of the blinking red LED above the WINGED SCARAB from blinking, to solid, to off. The RED #2423 ACRYLIC FACE-PLATE is the EXACT material/color# used on the actual prop with the information I was given from the PROP MASTER who designed the EGYPTIAN TIMER. The WINGED SCARAB is also made the EXACT same way as the actual prop. They ACID ETCHED the design. With the advancements in modern CAD, we can now easily create VECTOR art for the average user, and not restricted to expensive business software. The resulting WINGED SCARAB is PIXEL PERFECT 1:1. The WINGED SCARAB from CURIOUS GOODS is quite literally the PIXEL PERFECT BEST you can get for the EGYPTIAN TIMER prop enthusiast...

WHAT I AM LOOKING FOR IS HELP ON OBTAINING WHAT I HAVE LISTED IN THE NEED SECTION, HELP ON CONSTRUCTION, MAJORLY NEED HELP WITH FINDING THE PROPER BRASS EMITTERS AND HELP WITH THE FACE-PLATE...THE SCREEN PRINTING ON THE FACE-PLATE WITH HRS MINS SECS, AND FINALLY RECOMMENDATIONS ON WHAT TO USE AND HOW OT CUT ROUND HOLES FOR THE EMITTERS AN CUTTING SECTIONS OUT FOR THE 7-SEGMENT DISPLAYS, THE LED BAR GRAPHS


PICTURES OF WHAT I NEED:
aegypten_display004.JPG

aegypten_display001.JPG



SCARAB [NO PATINA]:
il_fullxfull.392897458_kf7f.jpg



ACRYLIC FACE-PLATE [RED #2423 1/16"]
s-l1600.jpg
 
Last edited:

Nicksdad

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Very cool board man, are you going to be making these available?
If I can find some time I could probably machine those brass tips and
probably the acrylic inserts for them.
 
I have sorted out and COMPLETED the layout and funtions of the KEYPAD buttons. On this EGYPTIAN timer, the KEYPAD actually works and is not just for show on the REAL PROP.


KEYPAD LAYOUT [REV. 5]

[1] Set the beeper to normal
[2] Set the emitter LEDS to normal
[3] Set the red LED to normal
[4] ---
[5] Turn off the beeper
[6] Turn off the emitter LEDS
[7] Turn off the red LED
[8] ---
[9] Turn on the beeper
[10] Turn on the emitter LEDS
[11] Turn on the red LED
[12] ---


I have left [4],[8] and [12] available for future use. This will be for the TIMER to simulate the function shown of being able to have it appear off, but it is still counting down internally. this will save on battery life substantially.
 
Last edited:

Al p

New Member
Im sure the led bar graph at the top are 12 not 10 althought dont think ive ever seen a replica with 12 watch some early timer screen grabs
 
Im sure the led bar graph at the top are 12 not 10 althought dont think ive ever seen a replica with 12 watch some early timer screen grabs
My version of the Egyptian Timer is the Season 5 one. When it debuted in Season 3, it did have 15 each bargraph, and each side followed a separate pattern per digit, rather than the current 10 with both bargraphs matching the 2nd digit of the Seconds box.

My prop, also the grayhill matrix keypad works, on the real prop, they did nothing. My version is meant to most accurately emulate the way it would if it were real
 

sparticus86

New Member
Hey,

Don't know if this info is still of any use to you Joshua but I made my Egyptian Timer emitters with 10mm brass pipe. I then used a pipe cutter to lightly score in the rings. For the emitter domes I bought some cheap 10mm clear LEDS and just cut the top third off - with the pipe and LEDS being 10mm it turned out to be a nice clean fit.

One thing that I would definitely recommend you do before gluing the cut LEDS on top of the brass emitters is to apply a coat of clear lacquer as the brass does oxidize quite fast - leaving you with unsightly patches.

Hope this helps!
Mark

a510.jpg download.jpeg download (1).jpeg
 

PeterLC

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
I still have one of Lightbenders original boards for this from years ago. I've never had the chance to finish the prop so it's all in a box somewhere. I never had bought the acrylic so I should get a sheet of it. I still have to work on Original timers too but have no electronics for them. I also have the basic parts to make static (probably a few lights) Rickman's timer and Logan's timer.
 
Top