Silicone Caulking Tubes Mold

Mortal Immortal

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Silicone Caulking Tubes Mold

How to Mold a Bio Helmet Sculpture.
1. Gather Materials.

1. 7-10 tubes of SILVER brand GE 100% silicone Caulking. (avail Home Depot)
2. One roll of Plasterers seam tape. (mesh tape for drywall seam reinforcement)
3. Can of Clear Coat - Kyrlon
4. Water Spray Bottle
5. Latex gloves


2. Prepare the Sculpt.

Ok Take the can of krylon and seal the clay. Most clays have sulphur in them and sulphur as far as i can remember reacts badly with silicone and will cause it NOT to dry. SO seal it up good with a couple coats.


OK! Now that the sculpt is dry and sealed u will begin to cover it with silicone.


3. Molding the sculpture.

With your sculpture mounted on a stand such as this it allows it to stay upright and you can spin it around as you work. I recommend making urself one.

Step 1. Take a tube of silicone and insert it into the caulking gun. Cut off the tip very close to the body of the tube so u have a wide opening. Puncture the seal inside the tubes stem. And start squeezing the silicone out onto the sculpture.


There is no real trick to this. Just squeeze out a large amount onto the sculpt and with your latex gloves on begin the spread it around. making sure u dont capture any air bubbles. this is the detail coat of the sculpture so dont worry about making it thick. just make sure u cover the surface evenly and dont miss any spots.




This is a picture of the sculpt after a couple layers.

Once the detail coat is done you will now want to wait for it to dry. I took a water bottle and sprayed down the silicone to speed up the drying process. Silicone drys because of a reaction with water in the air. So by leeping it sprayed down with a water bottle it made it dry SOO Much quicker.


OK NOW! Repeat the steps you did with applying the silicone except this time GO TO TOWN! Just squirt out all kinds of silicone and build it up but dont do more than a quarter inch thickness otherwise it won't dry!!
Do a quarter inch all around and then spray it down and leave it for a day. When i did this sculpt i would periodically come in throughout the day and spray it down when it dried out.


NOW! Take your plasterers seaming tape and cut some strips of it like 1 foot long. And take ur silicone gun and squirt on a thin layer of silicone. Now press the tape into the silicone and cover the entire surface of the mold with it. THis will reinforce the silicone and keep it from tearing. this silicone that comes in the tubes is not very strong so u need to reinforce it.
Pay close attention to the eyes and the outter areas of the mold.
Once its all covered take the gun and put on a quarter inch thickness all over it.
And once again spray it with the water bottle periodically.

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Final thoughts:

However thick u want it is up to you. I only did a few castings out of this mold. So i didnt make it too thick.

Also the type of silicone u wish to use is up to you. I prefered the Silver TUbes of caulking as pictured. U can experiment with whatever u like its up to you.

The molding process took about a week. I know its a long time and very repitituos. BUT when u compare the price differences there is no comparison. THis is the cheap poor mans way to go.

7-10 tubes of caulking costs about....28-40 bucks. While a gallon of rtv is like almost 100.00.

So if u want a cheap way to make a mold that u wont be mass-producing castings from. This is the way to go.

Enjoy!
MEanGene the Dancing Machine 06/27/06
 
I disagree. I used this tutorial for my viking, and it worked perfectly on the clean clay sculpt. I actually was thinking that it would stick too, so I applied Vaseline before the silicone (didn't have latex handy), and it almost killed the project. The caulking silicone is pretty thick and sticky, so it will rather stick to your fingers than to the Vaseline-oily surface. I DO NOT recommend that.
I wiped he Vaseline off and tried again on the clean clay, then it worked quite well.
 
If you add some acrylic paint to the caulking it'll make it kick faster than normal, not a great deal just enough to tint it should be good enough.
 
I work with Dow 795 Structural Sealant. It has like a 200% expansion and 85% compression rate. Great stuff. Kind of expensive tho.
 
Just a note:

Peter Mander uses the METHOD of mixing water based paints into the silicone. Maverick posted that quicktip and i just wanted to reinforce what he says as being true.
IT WORKS QUITE NICELY!!

Whats cool about it is if you get a black tube of paint you can mix it in and see how consistently you are mixing it becuase its colored.

Mander uses this method on alot of his stuff i presume. I remember hearing or him telling me that he used it for all his clay bio helmet molds.

Its alot more usefule than ya would think. Very useful for even just small molds ( ie dred rings etc)


Thanks for reposting this. I thought it was lost.
 
Reviving an old thread here, but where are the pics? I'd like to see this.
And once you have a decent mold, can you then use it as you would an RTV? What mold release and casting materials work best in Silicone molds?
 
Hey guys, I just wanted to add my two-cents worth. I went to Wal-Mart and got the cheapest clear silicone they had at $1.34 per tube and followed the procedure and it works great. I am doing small parts and I bought some cheap craft brushes for $1.74 for 10. I also got some acrylic sealer in the craft department for $3.25. I got all this stuff at Wal-Mart. I started by claying the part and sealing it with a couple of coats of the acrylic sealer. Next, after I let it dry overnight, I did the detail coat using a dabbing method to get the silicone into all the details with the cheap brush. Then however many successive coats you want. It really works great. The tube of silicone really lasts when you're doing small parts too. Just don't forget to seal the model. Thanks.
 
I also wanted to ask if there's any way to make the cheap silicone pourable. Anything to add to it without ruining it. Thanks.
 
I also wanted to ask if there's any way to make the cheap silicone pourable. Anything to add to it without ruining it. Thanks.

you can dilute silicone chauk with lighter fluid and certian white spirits. use sparingly as this will reduce the tear strengh of the mould
 
you can dilute silicone chauk with lighter fluid and certian white spirits. use sparingly as this will reduce the tear strengh of the mould


I dont recomend thinning the silicone as one the tinner evaporates, your silicone will want to shrink back to its normal state, causing distortion in the finished casting. I use 2-3 coats with a brush as stated in the first post. I then mix a huge batch in a yougurt container with some acrylic paint. You can then apply it with a trowel or popsicle stick. I use the GE silicone 1. I find it has an amazing tear strength and I do not have to reinforce it. You shouldnt use anything but 100% silicone, some "sealers" have latex and acrylics in them which will lower your tear strength and may react with a final casting.
Dan.
 
I'm currently trying this process for making molds. I'm wanting to make molds of small objects though.

I would really like to make a 2 part mold, but i know that silicone will stick to itself. So, anyone got a suggestion about pouring the top part of the silicone onto the bottom part?

Also, what kind of release agent do you use anyway? My master I'm doing the mold of is plastic. I'm thinking maybe cooking oil spray, but didnt know if there was something better.

Thanks! (sorry for resurrecting semi-old thread)
 
Yeah, very useful. I too wouldn't mind some pics. I've been debating about sculpting and casting some stuff myself. What's the best clay to use from someplace like Hobby Lobby?
 
Too bad there weren't pics to go along with this. I'd like to know how effective this is and if many people have tried it.
 
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