silicone and using a scale?

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Troubleis1983

New Member
Maybe someone could chime in, Im an avid user of smooth on products, and my sil of choice is dragon skin, However I noticed that you can buy mold max in 1 single gallon for about half the price, Has anyone molded with the mold max tin cure silicone? and if so does it matter if you measure by weight or volume? If you went by weight what kind of scale are you using, thanks all !
 

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hez1

New Member
Yes, I've used the mold max stroke, and mold max 27T. You need to measure it by weight, as it is a 10:1 mix ratio. So for every 100g of part A, you would add 10g of the part B.

Also, it's worth noting that it costs half as much as the dragon skin because you get just over half as much silicone. With the dragonskin you get a 1 gallon bucket of Part A, and a 1 gallon bucket of part B. With the mold max, you get a 1 gallon bucket of part A, and a 1 pint bottle of part B.

If you're making a mold by pouring silicone, mold max will NEED to be degassed. It gets a lot of airbubbles in it when mixing, way more than I've experienced when using dragonskin or rebound 25. The brushable stuff was pretty good though.

I used a regular kitchen scale that measures in grams or ounces.
 

Troubleis1983

New Member
yea good point, I figured id need a gallon to mold my current sculpture and saw mmax came in a 1 gallon size ( which the 90.00 bucks instead of 174.00 caught my eye lol ), Id be using it to make a 2 piece mask mold
 

Eaglewood

Sr Member
A gram scale is a necessity-- Harbor freight has them for $19.00 and they measure grams, oz and lbs. Wouldnt be without it.

Yes you need to measure the mold max and degassing is advised and preferred, but not required if you do a long (high)pour or if you dont have a vacuum chamber.
 

hez1

New Member
I still experienced a lot of bubbles even when doing a high pour with the mold max. Small bubbles, yes, but still there. I got around it by brushing a couple of coats of silicone on and letting those cure, then pouring.

I've also experienced less problems with tin cure silicones curing on Chavant clay sculpts, for what that's worth.
 

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Elkman

New Member
I've been using two Smooth-On silicone rubber products for my molding: Rebound 25, a brush-on platinum-cure silicone, and OOMOO 30, a pourable tin-cure silicone. The nice thing about both of those formulas is that they can be mixed 1:1 by volume, and no scale is required. Both of these products seem to be forgiving if you don't get the measurements exactly right.

Of course, I don't know if this means that they aren't as high in performance since they're made for a consumer market. But, the advantage for me is that they're readily available at my local art store.

Are you using a pourable silicone or a brush-on product? I've noticed that the pourable silicone, OOMOO 30, requires a lot more material if you're molding something that isn't really flat. Of the two wrist gauntlets I made, I made the mold for the lower portion of the right gauntlet with OOMOO 30 pourable silicone and filled a mold box with it. I made the lower portion of the left gauntlet with Rebound 25 and brushed it onto the sculpture in four layers. It's more work to brush on several layers of silicone, but it's turned out to be an easier mold to work with. In fact, I just made a new mold of the lower portion of the right gauntlet with Rebound 25 pourable silicone, so I could fix some problems such as bubbles that I got when I poured the silicone into the mold. Technically, that means I'm recasting, but it's OK since it's my own work. I've also noticed that the OOMOO 30 doesn't have a high tear strength, so after I've made several casts from the same mold, I've noticed little bits of silicone breaking off at the edges.

I've probably told you more than you were asking about, actually. Just remember that there are tradeoffs with any application.
 

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