Shapeways metal durability

[Rogviler]

I have a mechanical component that I'd like to just have printed in the finished material, as it needs to be rather intricate and would take quite a bit of time to essentially carve out of steel, and I'll need a couple. I've searched around and have seen lots of complaints about the surface finishes of the Shapeways steel (stainless/bronze) prints, but nothing much about the durability. I found pics of someone who made a bottle opener that was quite thin, but no comments on whether or not it broke on the first use.

So has anyone tested the limits of the metal materials? Is there a plastic option that would actually be stronger? Looking at their own spec sheet sounds like it's pretty durable. I don't care what it looks like, just that it won't snap when levering/spring force is applied to it. The price is the only reason I don't want to just get one done and try it. I've already tried a molded pot metal version and it failed almost immediately, just for reference.

One other thing is how well it taps for a bolt or screw. I'm just having trouble visualizing if it's a solid material (other than the surface) or if it has voids inside.

Thanks.

-Rog

 

[Contec]

Why not print out from plastic and then make a mold and cast it in real metal?

 

[Rogviler]

I don't have a foundry, so the best I could do is pot metal (already tried, as I said). Otherwise I would. I feel like it's really going to have to be steel. I'm not sure if aluminum would even cut it.

-Rog

 

[Jintosh]

I use Shapeways quite a bit. Their steel is totally solid and durable. I printed a coin and keep it in my pocket all the time. It doesn't get bent or anything.

The finish is, in a word, gritty. But solid.

 

[Polygon]

I just used shape ways to print parts of my lightsaber chasis. It is so hard that I destroyed 2 cobalt bits trying to drill 1mm holes in it and there's still no hole. So yes it's extremely durable. They do the print then it goes through a tempering process.

Make sure to have any details you want in the 3D files before you get it printed. It's very tough to cut it afterwards. Possible but a pain in the ass.

As for the surface texture there was a bit of the layers texture that you get with 3D printing. It's not as smooth as some of their examples, those things were polished which they don't explain. The coloring like the gold is just a coating and I actually sanded through it on one of my early parts. Here's a picture of what my parts look like after I took a dremel to kill some of the texture. You can see where I sanded it to a smooth. The deeper bits that I couldn't get my dremel into have the texture.

 

[Futurescape3D]

We 3D print in a material called Tech-G which is very strong and durable. It in itself could be used as the product you need or it could be used to cast metal copies which would be more of a hassle. It has a shore hardness of 87A which is fairly strong, and it can be drilled into without affecting the structural integrity of the part.

 

[PoopaPapaPalps]

That's steel? That must be heavy as hell.

 

[Polygon]

Most of the parts are hollow, it's like holding a maglite with D batteries, like it's a real lightsaber

 

[Mike J.]

IIRC, it's solid, mostly. Some metal parts are actually printed in wax and then cast in metal, and some are laser-sintered powder. I have a coin, roughly the size of a US silver dollar, that I hade made out of 'polished steel' or something like that. Pretty sure it was sintered. It's quite heavy feeling, has no obvious voids on the surfaces, polished or recessed, and seems to be quite strong, likely strong enough to be used as a bottle opener.

Shapeways may have more detailed specs on their materials, but they're not really an engineering firm.

 

[Mach]

Very durable has been my experience. The bronze prints are stainless steel infused with bronze. The color will disappear if you overheat the parts. I had hold down nuts for a computers water block printed. I was able to drill them using a metal lathe. I was unable to drill them on my drill press and smoked several cobalt bits in the process. Consequently, I was worried that I would snap off a tap in them so I through drilled them and silver soldered in brass threaded rod.

 

[Rogviler]

Nice, that's the kind of info I was looking for. Sounds like I'll proceed then. I was mistaken in needing to be able to tap it on this particular project, so it sounds like that's a good thing. I'll be sure to make all the holes the correct size and all that so hopefully I won't even need to touch it. I'll be sure to post once I get it done and put it into service.

I'm intrigued by the Tech-G as well, I will definitely look into that.

Thanks everyone!

-Rog