sewing spandex, advice?

[Kommissar]

Hey everyone,
i want to modify a spandex body suit i have for a costume.
basically i want to add (preferably sew) a white diamond onto the chest,
i know that sewing with spandex is a difficult process, so are there any specific steps i should take to making sure i get it right the first time?

i have sewing experience, but none with spandex,
thanks.

 

[precious]

Get a walking foot, it helps with stretchy things. You'll probably have to adjust you thread tensions as well. Usually with spandex, it's best to use a zig zag stitch, but that's obviously not going to be too pretty if you're just sewing the diamond on top. The most important thing is to always make sure that both fabrics have equal tension on them or it'll come out pretty ugly. Sorry for not being too coherent, I'm tired.

 

[ht403685]

I very heartily agree. Something I've found useful is obviously the zigzag stitch but also stretching the fabric a little bit as you sew. This sinks the stitches down into the material and makes it look better I find. Plus that way it doesn't seem to run away on me as much. Good luck!

 

[Vermithrax 4]

Use plenty of pins to hold your diamond in place. Your sewing machine should have a stretch stitch function which is specifically meant for stretch fabrics. Basically the needle doubles back every other stitch to reinforce the stitching allowing the fabric pieces to stretch without busting the seams.

 

[TK171]

Another option.. depending on how large or what the diamond is. Is the diamond just going to be created from the stictch line?- or is it more of a patch/application of a diamond being added to the spandex suit?

You could get some backing for the inside side of the spandex if it's an application like a patch (similar to when having a logo or something embroidered onto a garment). This may even work for just the stitch line, but would keep a more solid material underneath the foot to keep constant or equal movement.

 

[MrFoxxZero]

I used fabric glue to keep the spots of my Deadpool mask in place, then I sewed in a couple spots just to add a bit more security. I had to glue the spots while wearing the mask, so I was basically glueing them onto my face, lol, but they stayed in place really well once I found a good fabric glue, I used this stuff called Mighty Mendit, which worked like magic. Here's a pic of how it turned out, before and after the adjustment!

 

[tk882]

Just wanted to say thanks for these tips. I'm about to do some spandex sewing and hopefully these tips will help me ruin a little less fabric

 

[Kommissar]

Another option.. depending on how large or what the diamond is. Is the diamond just going to be created from the stictch line?- or is it more of a patch/application of a diamond being added to the spandex suit?

You could get some backing for the inside side of the spandex if it's an application like a patch (similar to when having a logo or something embroidered onto a garment). This may even work for just the stitch line, but would keep a more solid material underneath the foot to keep constant or equal movement.

its a reasonably large diamond shape i want to attach onto the chest, probably in white spandex so it has just as much stretch as the rest of the garment.

what i would really like to do is essentially replace the spandex in the chest area of the diamond to white spandex.
would the best way for that, just be to sew on the white spandex over the black and cut out the black spandex from the inside of the diamond afterwards?

 

[crazy4BobaFett]

Be sure to use the right type of needle as well. You can get away with a ball point needle if you machine will house a flat shank. But try to use a stretch needle it is specifically designed for sewing knits that contain spandex.
Stretch sewing machine needles have a deeper scarf that eliminates skipped stitches too.

Sometimes a teflon foot can be helpful too.
Good luck, spandex will test you patience.

 

[mdb]

Stretch needles are ball point

I hate and despise zig zag for spandex rich fabrics- it just is not stretchy enough. Zig zag was recommended for knit fabrics before stretch stitches were designed especially for the new spandex rich fabrics. It's only really useful for 2 way stretch fabrics. And hems in stretch fabric (you'll note it is also used for the tops of stretchy boots as it doesn't puncture the fabric too much).

That said zig zag is fantastic for securing stretch fabric pieces before you go at them with stretch stitches. Stretch stitching goes forward and backward and so the fabric really gets terribly battered between the feed dogs and foot which makes it liable to bunch. It is also more prone to different feed rates between layers so that the bottom goes through slower than the top (it's what that differencial feed knob is for on overlockers- to make the fabrics work more as one layer).

For this applique I do recommend pinning and zig zagging first as it is easy to unpick in case the applique needs to be moved. You can then do a few layers of zig zag (shorter and wder stitches) so it looks like a regular applique or use one of the stretch sttch functions.
Stretch stitch functions start with a tripple stitch (looks like ||| on the machine) and goes up to overlocking mimicing stitches.

I'd also reccommend tryng to have the edges of the applique turned under, but that is a little overkill!

 

[gattirenata]

Hey everyone,
i want to modify a spandex body suit i have for a costume.
basically i want to add (preferably sew) a white diamond onto the chest,
i know that sewing with spandex is a difficult process, so are there any specific steps i should take to making sure i get it right the first time?

i have sewing experience, but none with spandex,
thanks.

hi there kommissar!!!
first... i have to agree with mdb about the stitches!!!! but.... if your machine doesn't have the stretch stitches you gonna have to work it out with the zig zag.
My old machine didn't have them and i made all my spandex costumes with the regular zig zag and they came out fine!!!!!
some people also recommend using a stronger thread... cause cotton will break more easily!
i actually only followed this rule when i worked with vynil!!!
and as always... before you start you project, test the tension and all on a scrap piece of fabric.

i have a relationship of love and hate with spandex!!!! =P
it is a bit more work and everything, but i just looooove the fact that it doesnt fray! =P

depending on what kind of spandex u gonna use, you may need a special foot... cause the fabric get stuck on it. it's a teflon presser foot!!! no sticky fabric with this puppy!!!

although... there are other ways... some people sandwiches the fabric to be sewn with that really thin, almost see through paper (i forgot the name) this technique may help you out if the feed dog scratches your fabric. (that happened to me when using metallic spandex for my Arisia rrab . =S)

but... to avoid the sticky fabric... i actually just used baby powder!!! seriously!!! that's what i had in hand... and i didn't want to wait to order the presser foot, or find that paper! baby powder worked fine for me! =P

uhm i don't think it is really a good idea to stretch the fabric as you sew... not even a little bit... it may cause that gathering effect... you know what i mean....
and... if you are sewing vynil or some really stretchy material like that... DONT PIN!!!! or you will have tiny little holes everywhere. =S

about the diamond you have to sew....
i was researching about this a few weeks ago... cause i need to sew stars in a costume and just couldn't figure out how to do it!!
and i found this tutorial
crash culture: Costuming: Stretch Applique Tutorial

i did not try it yet! but it really looks like it's gonna work!!!!!

i'm not really an expert and i have been costuming for a year and a half... but... it seems like... every single costume i've made was with spandex LOL oh... and vynil of course! f

good luck!
=)

 

[Kommissar]

this is all so helpful! thank you so much everyone!