Sewing Basics - Tools

Jayne - I hadn't thought of using a rotary cutter for distressing. I just use a box cutter. A rotary cutter certainly would be a more "civilized weapon." Glad I haven't thrown/given mine away!


an elegant weapon for a more civilized "age" :lol
(yeaahh, we're geeky ;) )
 
Brilliant thread.
EveningArwen
would you mind sharing make and model of your hand press and what your thoughts are on it??

I've been looking for one for a while but there is so much variety out there its hard to choose.
Don't know wether to go with something off of ebay or somewhere else
 
I wish I had a nice sewing machine that can do zigzag and buttonholes, however the machine that was donated to me was built in the 50's, only goes forward and backwards. On the plus side, it does sew through the Sommers material required for the BSG flight suits.

I have a Singer Overlock that I bought on ebay for a mere $200. I took it in to my local Singer store and had it overhauled. The proprietor said I lucked in to an amazing deal; the machine is worth around $1000 and I only had to pay $100 for him to polish/sharpen the cutting blades and tune up the machinery.

One thing I have learned is it is important to keep your sewing machines well oiled and stored in the correct manner.
 
Brilliant thread.
EveningArwen
would you mind sharing make and model of your hand press and what your thoughts are on it??

I've been looking for one for a while but there is so much variety out there its hard to choose.
Don't know wether to go with something off of ebay or somewhere else


I bought from this site here.

Machines and Dies

I called her up so I could ask questions about the press and she was awesome to talk to. So nice and super super helpful. My press is the osbourne and while she doesn't have the cutter and setter for grommets on her site she will order them for you when she orders everything else. Since I got the press, grommet setter and 5/8" button setter she gave me a bit of a discount on the button setter. She also told me how to save on shipping. I got priority shipping and everything fit in a large flat rate box at $15 because she took the press out of the box and took off the handle. So when I received it I just put it back on. It was really simple to do. So much better then having to pay like $35 or $40 because of how heavy the box is.

Also I ended up realizing that my button setter had a defective part and it didn't really dawn on me until I had it for at least....6 months??....something like that. But it started to get worse and wouldn't set my buttons correctly anymore and I brought it to her attention and she replaced it straight away. I seriously could not recommend this place enough, they've been great.

I believe the cost for the cutter and setter for the grommets was around $60? And the button die set was around $50-$60? I can't remember exactly, I just knew that the press and the grommet set were cheaper then anywhere else I had looked. Most places charged over $200 for the press and $40 for shipping.

Oh also note that the sizing I got, the 00 grommet and the 5/8" button sets were both special order. But it only took 2 days or so for her to receive them before they got shipped to me. Super fast.
 
What are some good starter projects for guys? I have a Brother sewing machine, and a serger, but haven't used them yet.
 
What are some good starter projects for guys? I have a Brother sewing machine, and a serger, but haven't used them yet.

If you're looking for just sample projects that you may never actually use then simple things like a circle skirt or tunic. It will only have a few seams and a very basic pattern to cut out but you will be able to practice sewing straight seams, attaching a waist band or elastic band on the skirt, possibly some kind of drawstring channel on the tunic, basic sleeves and both of them you can use your serger to finish the seams and you can hem both of them at the bottom if you want to practice some hand stich hems for an invisible hem.

Those would be fast simple projects that you could see right away what you're putting together. And I know guys always want to laugh at the idea of creating a skirt but a circle skirt really is super super easy and tends to be a generic starter project in lots of beginning sewing classes. Each of these things you can also add things onto to practice. Such as:

on the waistband of the skirt you could do a button hole and button instead of a channel for an elastic to go through.

on the tunic you could attach a ruffle or cut a V down the front and do grommets and lacing.

I would suggest looking at pattern companies such as Sewing Patterns | McCalls Corp

They have all 3 basic pattern companies, mccall, vogue and butterick and mccall and butterick have "easy" sections in them and they also have the "costume" section which half the time any of those patterns are super easy and have pretty decent detailed instructions. I would say that for anyone just starting out with not much of an idea of where to begin that would be the way to go.
 
What are some good starter projects for guys? I have a Brother sewing machine, and a serger, but haven't used them yet.

My b/f has a pair of flannel boxers he made about 10-12 years ago in high school home economics class. He is beyond proud of them. He can't sew now but I think it would be a great starter project because you have straight stitches, curve stitches, and elastic.

PS I prefer Simplicity patterns, more verity and they have some really easy ones as well but i do use butterick sometime.
 
Re: Pins

Either you have a lot of tins or not that many buttons. I finally had to break down and buy button storage boxes. I got tired of dumping out jar after jar of buttons to find the right ones. Part of the problem is no garment gets thrown out before I remove any reusable parts - buttons, zippers, hooks and eyes, etc.

I hardly sew or wear much that requires buttons, so, I don't have that many - just replacement types.

Velcro - now, that's another matter. I've accumulated SO much of that stuff.
 
Re: Basic Project

I checked the Big 3 "easy" patterns. Only McCalls has something that a guy might wear - hospital scrubs or pajamas. Same design, just more room in the pajamas. It is McCalls M5504. I would start with the pants.

There were a number of dog costumes in the easy patterns. Maybe you could rival Art's and Star War Chick's Wampug? :)
 
Re: Basic Project

I checked the Big 3 "easy" patterns. Only McCalls has something that a guy might wear - hospital scrubs or pajamas. Same design, just more room in the pajamas. It is McCalls M5504. I would start with the pants.

There were a number of dog costumes in the easy patterns. Maybe you could rival Art's and Star War Chick's Wampug? :)


That's why I mentioned if he doesn't care about making something for him to use/wear. Unfortunately there aren't a lot of simple guy stuff to make. Most patterns out there are for women. But something like a scrub or pajama would definitely fit in the easy section. Simplicity.com: Patterns, tools and supplies for all things sewing, knitting, quilting, and crafting. as well does have some pretty good patterns that are quite easy. And again, don't look only in the "easy" sections but look in the "costume" section as well. There are some really simple patterns there that could be modified and turned into something you can use without becoming to overwhelming. Especially when you get used to the basics.

Always be careful with patterns because half the time the sizing they say on the outside is not the finished size of the garment. Always check the actual paper pattern (if you end up using a bought paper pattern) for the final sizing. They tend to have a 6" "ease" difference where it is 6" larger then the measurements on the outside. Super annoying when you want a fitted pattern lol. When checking it will usually be on the pattern piece for the front and the back and the finished measurements when sewn will be at the chest area, waist area and hip area if you have a full piece garment.
 
Re: Scissors/Dress Making Shears

["Gingher" scissors are fine...but? I have found another pair of "Dress Shears" that are equally useful, and I feel are even better.They hail from Germany and are called "HORN" shears. They have a Surgically Sharp edge to them, so be careful...as they will cut Flesh, as well as Fabric.

I was looking for a pair of Scissors that held their edge "Sharper" a bit longer, then "Gingher's", as I do a great deal of sewing, and I cannot always go out and have my scissors re-sharpened every month.

Just something to consider. If you have a "Jo-Ann Fabric" store in your area? Most of them have a separate "Sewing Machine" area on the floor.

You should find the "HORN" shears in that area, as they are a specialty item and are not likely to be found in the "Notions" area. :)


QUOTE=MaulWalker;2009408]Scissors, or more correctly dressmaker shears, feature offset handles that allow you to run the bottom blade along the cutting surface. This keeps more of your hand above the fabric and disturbs the fabric less.

View attachment 75224


Scissors are sold in right and left hand models and by blade length. Long blades great for long straight cuts while shorter blades are good for curved lines and small cuts. A good overall size is 8".

If money is no object, the best scissors you can buy are Gingher. These are heavy, solid metal scissors, beautifully shined with the Gingher name etched on outside of the blade. The blades hold their edge, however they must be professionally sharpened. I know of one instance where a pair of Ginghers were packed in checked luggage and “disappeared” between home and the final destination. A pair will cost you about the same as a Dremel.

The most common sewing scissors now are the steel blade with plastic handle ones. Some brands include Fiskars and Dritz. These are much lighter than the solid metal ones; you will appreciate that if you are cutting out a large amount of fabric. These scissors don’t hold their edge as well, however you can sharpen them yourself. You can buy a sharpener or some scissors are sold as a set with a sharpener.

Caring for Your Scissors
In the old days, if you picked up someone’s sewing scissors and tried to use them for something other than fabric, the scissors’ owner probably emitted a shriek that rattled the glassware. Somewhere in the following tirade would be the line “Those are my GOOD scissors!” That was because all scissors had to be professionally sharpened. Finding someone who could sharpen scissors was a challenge; to some extent it still is. Some professional sharpeners will schedule visits at local sewing stores once every six months or so.

Those of you who use other bladed tools know that the sharper the blade, the easier, faster, and safer it is to do the work. Same thing with scissors. Dull blades tend to gnaw on the fabric and will raise blisters on your hands.

Save your sewing scissors for sewing only. The sharpeners will help keep the blades sharp but won’t work as well to bring a blade back from extreme dullness. Some people take this to the extreme and will cut paper patterns out with cheap scissors so their sewing scissors are truly only cutting fabric.

You can do just about everything with your big scissors; however you may want a small pair for small jobs like trimming loose threads. These in the attached thumbnail are my favorites. They are actually medical scissors and you can find them at flea markets, swap meets, etc.


One set of specialized scissors are pinking shears. These cut and leave a zigzag, or pinked edge. These must be professionally sharpened. Some people like to use pinking shears on fabrics that fray. Pinking shears are not an absolute necessity, unless you are doing a historical costume where pinked edges were a common seam finish.

You may also see electric scissors in the stores. They sound like a good idea, but I don’t know anyone who uses them regularly. I used a pair back in the 60s – they had one speed – fast – and lost their edge extremely quickly and gnawed, rather than cut, fabric.[/QUOTE]
 
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This is a really useful thread! I've already found a couple items to add to my wish list :)

I do have to say that I love my rotary cutters. I used to despise the cutting out process of making a garment but with the rotary cutter it's much more tolerable. I also find that I get a more accurate cut since I'm not having to lift the fabric up with the scissors. Maybe I was just doing it wrong but that always seemed to distort the fabric and cause wonky cuts. I use Olfa rotary cutters in a variety of sizes. In my experience, as long as the blade is sharp it doesn't take an extraordinary amount of pressure to cut through the fabric. However, when the blade starts to dull it will cease to cut cleanly through the fabric in the dull spots. Sharpeners are available for the blades but I've never had much success with them. New blades can usually be found for a decent price on Amazon or eBay.
 
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