Serenity mule scratch build

[samster27]

Hi, just starting on a 20 inch Serenity Mule.



Nearly bought the QMx model but the prices asked were a bit crazy so I thought I would build a bigger and hopefully more detailed one.

I recently bought the Serenity Blueprint set and had the side, front and top elevations enlarged to the correct size ( needed some photoshop work done first and despite being less than useless, the scans turned out well and the correct size for printing )

Body will be made from 1mm styrene sheet which is easy to cut and will have re-inforcement plates glued behing to strengthen it

The hardest part will be the engines but I have a cunning plan..

 

[samster27]

First job, the Mule pontoons. Using measurements from my now 1:1 scale drawings ( in approx 1/11 1/12th scale ) the pontoons are now completed. They are sturdy so good news.



I have taken snapshots throughout the chase scene, but some areas are a little vague such as the underside structure and the two thrusters, which actually appear on the Mule in the cargo hold before they head out, but are not on the Mule for the chase scenes. I guess they either got in the way of the crane tryp arm used to mount the Mule ( to a truck? ) for filming, or they were not strong enough and fell off when testing for the shots, so scrapped. I think probably the former.

I will be including the vertical thrusters though.

There are a few pics on the google images site, some of which are excellent, these being taken either at the studios famour vehicles plot, or even better ones from the Serenity fest taken by fans. Here the mule was displayed outside. Again not enough shots of vague areas. As there appears to be little accurate all round pics, I will have to take a best guess approach and constantly reference the snapshotd for any hidden clues.

I have also started the rear engines. Looks like I will be doing some mould making...not something I have done before but YouTube is helpful with this. Silicone and resin on the way so hopefully the engines can take shape soon.

How do you insert big pics rather than the thumbnails? Seems the functionality has changed or is it me being dim?

 

[samster27]

[URL=http://s1103.photobucket.com/user/forza271/media/Serenity%20Mule/2013-06-22183522_zps0c77997f.jpg.html][/URL]

 

[samster27]

Was just experimenting to get bigger pics in...sorted now.

Engines.....

1. Start with a polystyrene egg...
2. cut bits off as required
3 Seal outer with something so the mould silicone will not penetrate ( no idea if it would, just a precaution really )

[URL=http://s1103.photobucket.com/user/forza271/media/Serenity%20Mule/2013-06-29000300_zpscd8da61f.jpg.html][/URL]

4. Think first and do not use a car knife putty which has solvents that eat the polystyrene :facepalm
5. Go to the back of the class and stand in the corner
6. Start again but this time use a PVA type glue called Modge Podge.

Sometimes I can be a bear of little brain!

D Minus...must try harder :lol

Once the engine egg bits are fully sealed, I will cast a copy in resin, thread a bolt through the centre then put it into the mini lathe I have and whittle her into shape. I have almost no experience of the lathe so this will be a real learning process.

Once the shape is good, I will then cast 2 new and start working by addidng bits from there. Hope this works.

 

[samster27]

I never thought I would become a rivet counter....but I have just counted the screws on the Mule and I need about 450, maybe 500!

I found some 0.5mm screw heads with a phillips type screwdriver star head, but these would cost me more than $200 to buy the amount I need! So getting out the trusty punch and die set, I hammered out the smallest punch (0.6mm) through 0.3 and 0.5mm sheet. The results are so tiny that the screw purchase would be daft as you could not see the detail anyway. So going with a 1mm vinyl adhesive tape to make the strip and the punch with 0.5mm sheet to get the effect below.

[URL=http://s1103.photobucket.com/user/forza271/media/Serenity%20Mule/Serenity_Fan_Fest_03__by_GermanCityGirl_zps6c07dd70.jpg.html][/URL]

That still of course means I have 500 or so to punch out and stick into place. This should test the sanity!

 

[SofaKing01]

Looks good! I feel your pain about counting rivits... I counted ALL the LEDs in the Falcon's cockpit... 800+

 

[Strode]

HO HO HO testing sanity indeed. good luck. want to see more.

 

[samster27]

A Question for you guys:

I have my engine polystyrene masters ready to be covered in blue silicon to make the mold. The polystyrene is sealed. What are the odds that the silicon mixture will melt the polystyrene shapes? Does the making of the mold generate heat?

Any help much appreciated before I have a go and potentially ruin the shapes I have.

Thanks

 

[samster27]

I have spoken to Nick at TOMPS who is supplying the silicon and resin. He is very knowledgeable and said that I should coat the polystyrene shapes in a varnish ( wood type ) as the modge podge pva type glue might stick a bit. So pieces coated and drying. I will give them a second coat just to be sure in the morning.

With regard to the chamfering, I have bought some 2mm 90 degree triangle styrene plasticard strips and will build each panel individually allowing the best possible fit. Its a bit of a long winded pain but I did not fancy buying a laminate cutter in case it did not work.

Will get some pics online as soon as I have something to show.

ciao for now.

 

[samster27]

Whilst watching Andy Murray play Djokovic at Wimbledon, I did a bit of modelling to releive the unbearable tension...Well done Andy Murray...straight sets against world number 1...UNBELEIVABLE!

OK so working on a pontoon, I got all of the 2mm plates fitted and then added 2mm 90 degree triangle styrene each side of the plates, cut at the correct angles to reference pics. Then a liberal covering of green stuff putty to seal any imperfections.

Started sanding it yesterday, she is looking good I think.

[URL=http://s1103.photobucket.com/user/forza271/media/Serenity%20Mule/2013-07-08105524_zpsef24a6db.jpg.html][/URL]

Nice chamfered edges all around. Thought it was a better approach than buying a router which could rip the thin styrene. A lot more work but this approach allows fine tuning as you proceed with each plate.

Looks like the supplier of the 90 degree triangle strip has run out, I bought 3 metres of it and used well over two metres on one pontoon!

I have also ordered some rod and bends to make the scaffolding crab handles so thet should arrive within the next few days.

 

[samster27]

I have the pontoons finished, primed and sanded with 1200 grit...

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Using 1mm vinyl tape, I put the pinstriping one one of them yesterday

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Will do other one tonight.

- - - Updated - - -

Sites images playing up :wacko

 

[TheNylonGag]

I'm not familliar with this ship but i like the look of it

Very nice pontoons so far mate

Keep it going

About your silicon casting issue, you will need to make the outer surface as smooth as possible so i would suggest maybe a couple of light coats
of wood varnish with a good sand and buff at the end and dont forget some type of release agent.

Gag

 

[samster27]

Gag, cheers man, did not think of the release agent as not done this work before...will got look for one. Parts have been coated with varnish to seal, but had not sanded smooth so thanks again. Your ship is looking stellar mate..top notch.

As I was pinstriping, I realised I have screwed up. In taking the measurements from the blueprint, I did not cross ref with pics of the actual Mule and as a result, the hammerhead end of the pontoon is about 4mm out which is driving me mad, so its a reach for the saw and time to fettle I think. I would like to say that I am not anal and that I can live with it...but I cannot. Will post pics of the re-enginneered hammerhead shortly, work busy at moment ( not a bad thing considering the economical state of the world at the moment ).

Need to get thinking about the underside so I can join the pontoons with a fllo. This will allow me to start planning out the front bulkhead, driver dash panel and the rear underside panels and girders. Probably work with card to finalise the locations until happy. I have learned from the hammerhead incident...ALWAYS CHECK REFERENCE PICS OF THE REAL THING BEFORE GLUING!

Later Dudes and Dudesses

 

[samster27]

This is what I need to do BTW



Add 4mm plate to red area and remove 4mm from green area then pinstriping should be correct where it is.

 

[curlyhairedboy]

keep it up, this is a neat build!