Sci-Fi modeling on Elegoo Mars -- Community support/tips

Well the idea is that the resin cures and stick to the build plate... I mean there was nothing on the FEP when I started. For some reason it wants to stick to the FEP more than the build plate, then subsequent layers just continue to harden the fist over and over for the rest of the build time. this creates a blob on the FEP that is tough to get off. When the build plate was leveled there was nothing there except for a piece of paper to prevent it touching the actual imaging screen. I'm thinking there might be something with the resin... I saw a video last night about a man having similar issues to mine that changed his resin and magically started getting good prints. I'm still going to replace the FEP when it arrives and give it a whirl.

Jedi Dade

When you level your build plate, do you check it afterwards by trying to slide a piece of paper under? Flip around your FEP tray to see if you get any better results. Is your setting for the cure of the first few layers set to 30 seconds? I've had similar issues, then I switched to Elegoo white resin and I'm getting no failed prints. Unfortunately when it cures it turns a but orange. No problem if you're planning on painting it afterwards. With ethe Elegoo grey, it was hit and miss.

TazMan2000
 
I'm not sure of the exact settings (I'm at work so I can't check) but I've double checked the settings a few times so I think they're good. I even reloaded the rooks that came with the printer to see if they are the same... to see what the "default" was... prints bombed... I really think its got to be the FEP and I'll eliminate that variable as soon as the new stuff gets to me. What bothers me though is I really haven't printed all that much with it for it to be worn out... maybe I was too rough with it cleaning the vat or something. We'll see shortly.

Jedi Dade
 
My Mars is still sitting in my man cave waiting for me to have time to try it out. In the meantime, quick really stupid question so I can keep up with the conversation: the "FEP" is what so I can be aware of it's limitations and/or problems when I finally actually start using my machine.

Seriously, June has sucked in so many ways that I haven't been able to even think about 3d printing or modeling. I'm just now trying to get caught up.
 
FEP is the clear film that sits at the bottom of the resin vat, separating the resin from the LCD screen. FEP stands for some kind of chemical name, fluroethyl-blah blah I think. I would buy a pack of spare FEP films in advance, if I were you, as it is really annoying when it gets messed up and you have to wait several days for new ones to arrive.
 
You can also try purchasing other resin tanks with the FEP already installed, so you can get right back into printing after an "accident". Then sit down afterwards and replace all of the FEPs all at once, during a lull in printing.

TazMan2000
 
I would do both of those things. You're going to need the extra FEP sheets regardless. And it's always nice to have more than one resin tank.

SB

Edit: my next project.

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I printed pretty much all of a 1/48 Y wing a couple of weeks ago. Most of the prints looked pretty good when they came out of the printer/were cured. I've just opened the box of parts back up again to start priming them and I've found that some of the parts have developed small circular holes.

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Does anyone know why this happens? And what I can do to stop it happening again? I'm using elegoo ceramic gray water washable with pretty much standard print settings.

I wonder if it is to do with the curing process - I used to just cure prints in sunlight outside but have now switched to a UV lamp and a turntable.
 
I printed pretty much all of a 1/48 Y wing a couple of weeks ago. Most of the prints looked pretty good when they came out of the printer/were cured. I've just opened the box of parts back up again to start priming them and I've found that some of the parts have developed small circular holes.

View attachment 1328551View attachment 1328552View attachment 1328553

Does anyone know why this happens? And what I can do to stop it happening again? I'm using elegoo ceramic gray water washable with pretty much standard print settings.

I wonder if it is to do with the curing process - I used to just cure prints in sunlight outside but have now switched to a UV lamp and a turntable.

Aren't those holes for the piping to slot into?
 
After I posted above I was playing with the 3D file before I reprint it and I noticed exactly that - there are a bunch of holes that I just never noticed before which are actually there in the model. Now I feel like a bit of a dunce :lol:
 
Playing with the Elegoo Mars for some months now.

The rook printed: no-brainer. The minute I started to teach myself Blender and took a hard-surface model of my own design to the Mars: fail.

I tried to create a storage bin (I suck at Blender, kids) and print it on the Mars. Ideal vs. Real:

From Insta.jpeg


From Insta.jpeg
 
So, it is in fact an art. I learned, as others have posted here, to add supports in Prusa, slice in Chitu. I manually add supports to corners, beef up the count, sometimes angle the print on relative to the print bed....

You have to really play with it, experiment. Hard-surface models are probably the most unforgiving.

And then there's Blender! That has been a slow learning curve. I expect it to be a year before I feel conformable with it. That being said, I was flailing for the first month — that being several months back now, I confess I have more of an intuitive grasp now on how to approach a model.

But, like the Mars, there were all matter of blind alleys I went down. Often a model that looked fine in Blender failed in Chitu to slice properly: the resulting print that came out of the Mars had seemingly arbitrary layers filled in....

It turns out that making a model "manifold" is pretty important!

As I started feeling my way through Blender I began to be able to imagine a shape, sketch it on a napkin if you like, and then approximate it in Blender. The resulting prints too became better.

Here is a sort of "space radiator" for the top of a scratch-build I am prototyping;

From Insta.jpeg


From Insta.jpeg


From Insta.jpeg
 
And now some "docking bays" for my model — these were made in multiple parts glued together (again, Blender newbie here). I am enjoying knocking together the macro-structure in foam core, then going to resin prints to "greeble" it up.

From Insta.jpeg


From Insta.jpeg
 
And now some "docking bays" for my model — these were made in multiple parts glued together (again, Blender newbie here). I am enjoying knocking together the macro-structure in foam core, then going to resin prints to "greeble" it up.

Great job, looking great so far

J
 
Playing with the Elegoo Mars for some months now.

The rook printed: no-brainer. The minute I started to teach myself Blender and took a hard-surface model of my own design to the Mars: fail.

I tried to create a storage bin (I suck at Blender, kids) and print it on the Mars. Ideal vs. Real:

View attachment 1329244

View attachment 1329245

I’m sure blender has many advantages over tinkercad when it comes to really complex projects, and probably especially creating more “organic” models like people, animals etc. But I have found tinkercad to be incredibly simple and effective for nearly everything I have tried so far (which is mainly Star Wars spacecraft parts, greeblies etc). I tried blender, meshmixer, Fusion360 and a few others and I just couldn’t make any progress.
Obviously this is a result of me having a lack of ability, time or both - I’m not saying these programmes are in any way defective. But if there’s anyone out there who is struggling with them I highly recommend giving tinkercad a try. I watched one 5 minute tutorial and then I was ready to go. You could create that storage bin model within an hour of first using tinkercad, and once it’s done you just open it in chitubox, add automatic supports and slice it.
 
I’m sure blender has many advantages over tinkercad when it comes to really complex projects, and probably especially creating more “organic” models like people, animals etc. But I have found tinkercad to be incredibly simple and effective for nearly everything I have tried so far...

I think you're right. From what I gather, Tinkercad is easier for beginners. I went with Blender in part to learn Blender. I might take Tinkercad for a spin though and see if it better suited for greebling.

With a steep learning curve of many 3D apps I am more than a little cautious about "backing the wrong horse" so to speak. I remember many 3D apps from the 90's that I started to familiarize myself with that are no more. Blender is open-source, free, and cross-platform (I am on a Mac).

Tinkercad appears to be in-browser and not an off-line, stand-alone app. I am a little uncomfortable with that. But if there is minimal investment in learning it then I suppose I need not worry.

It is true though, and I want to emphasize, that none of this one-click-and-print. There are pitfalls along the entire pipeline: from learning the 3D software package you choose (and the do's and don't's with that) and getting a good print from the printer.

But don't look at any of these as barriers, just the usual hurdles you have to overcome to learn something new and evolving.Go into it expecting to be still learning it this time next year.
 
When you model for 3D printing you should try to model with a specific scale and therefore size in mind. It is true of both resin and FDM/FFF printing. It's not quite as important for "large" parts, but super important for details and accuracy. The slicer aproximates sizes to the nearest multiple of layer width or xy-dot resolution of your screen on a resin printer. That is the reason you might get holes in a mesh if it's scaled down to such a degree that the thickness of parts don't register as printable for instance.

Design thicknesses of walls/the smallest details as a multiple of your line width/xy-dot resolution. That's the first variable I define in my CAD builds: "line thickness". Then I can specify a wall measurement as 3 x line thickness and the cad software knows what I am talking about. I can then, whenever I need to, adjust that variable and the model updates accordingly wherever I have used that variable as a measurement. You can use it in many more ways than just wall thickness. That also goes for the Z layer height.

I usually know what resolution I am printing in and design stuff based on that. I do some models that are not more than 2 or 4 layers thick. Like this mesh with my logo for my computer case (budget mini CAD rig).
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You have to learn to orientate your parts while thinking of how you are going to print them to best apply the knowledge of your physical print limitations to everything. It seems like a bother, but is something that becomes intuitive as you go though. There is little that beats the feeling of getting something exactly as you imagined it, with the caveat that you work around the limitations of the medium.
 
Just curious what you guys make of the Anycubic wash and cure machine. I've seen a couple ads for it now and it looks like an interesting devices for resin printers.
 
Not sure whether I’m thinking of the same one but I did take a look at one of the wash/cure machines and it seemed heinously expensive for what it does. I use water washable resin and a simple LED uv lamp and turntable in a cardboard box. I really don’t see the process as being arduous enough to justify any greater expense.
Plus the impression I got was that you put the whole build platform in the washer, which means you don’t have the option of removing the supports before curing, which I usually do
 
Not sure whether I’m thinking of the same one but I did take a look at one of the wash/cure machines and it seemed heinously expensive for what it does. I use water washable resin and a simple LED uv lamp and turntable in a cardboard box. I really don’t see the process as being arduous enough to justify any greater expense.
Plus the impression I got was that you put the whole build platform in the washer, which means you don’t have the option of removing the supports before curing, which I usually do

Interesting. I was under the impression that the washing was done before the curing and was a separate process. I suppose it could have a couple different modes depending on the project. This does seem like something that will come down in price because it's not that complicated.
 
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