Limited Run SaberBay Machined Alu DARKSABER Live Action Run *The Reserve period Closed* More available at later time

Saberbay

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Isn’t guabe s vented pommel a more elegant solution without deleting detail. Static and vented could literally be the same but adding one more machine operation.
Not sure where the confusion is coming from.
Kit is going to come with 2 pommels.
One vented and one static.
The static one resembles the concept art render for season one, where it does have a d ring instead to rivet like greeblies which our kit includes.
And the season 2 style one with the d ring where the greeblies would have been
97774DB9-579C-4BC5-A355-F6508D9BD1EC.jpeg
AB62C36C-EE82-439A-B4CF-39CCFFE4A673.jpeg
 

Saberbay

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Thanks for the update! Very comprehensive. I (and I'm sure many others) really appreciate all the transparency in the process.

Will you give any advanced warning before ending reservations? Still weighing whether I want to jump in, but don't want it to suddenly be closed either. Thanks!
Yes we will give warning when reserve period is over.
Once reserves close you could jump In for the small amount of extras that we may have to offer but you will miss out on the reserve price and full payment will be due upfront.
So benefit of reserving is lower cost and not having to pay all your front.
 

The Sweatshop

Well-Known Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Not sure where the confusion is coming from.
Kit is going to come with 2 pommels.
One vented and one static.
The static one resembles the concept art render for season one, where it does have a d ring instead to rivet like greeblies which our kit includes.
And the season 2 style one with the d ring where the greeblies would have been
View attachment 1521345 View attachment 1521346
Sorry I misunderstood the other post. These are dope, appreciate the clarification.
 

Machinimax

Active Member
Man I've been neglecting this thread for the longest time!

Just to make sure I have myself properly caught up to speed - as of this moment you guys are still fine tuning parts with the manufacturer. As a result of that, no additional invoices have been sent out since the one for the initial deposit back in May? Just making sure I'm where I need to be right now as one who hopped on board the run from the beginning. Thanks! Everything is looking awesome!!!!
 

Saberbay

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
You got it, still fine tuning things, this is taking a lot longer than we expected.

But yes nothing more is due at this time.
 

Technocyte

New Member
Hey guys,

Hope everyone is having a good holiday season!

So I recently joined the run and I've been looking through the post, and I'm just wondering if it's me, or if the cross section of the raised portions on the grip has changed to be flatter or not as elevated or chamfered? It definitely looks like it has lost some of its definition. I've added a picture below for reference. Additionally I'd like to understand what the goal is in terms of colour. I read in previous comments that it would be discussed but I haven't seen much discussion as to where the colour is heading. In my POV it definitely seems a lot more glossy than the Project DSLA renders, and a lot less along the original colour scheme.

comparison.png
 

Saberbay

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
The first version had rubber grips for the raised areas that fell off very easily no matter what adhesive we used
It also had visible seams, so we went with the machined alu version.
It’s 4 axis machining so there is no chamfers.
Adding the coat of pc to color the raw Alu did round it out a bit much like a chamfer.
You are right that this last proto didn’t have as high of grips, we addressed that on the production files.
So raised areas will be higher.
Regarding color we are trying one more powder coating type.
After we try that we will show a comparison of the 2 and let the majority decide.
We likely will have the powder coating done here in town for the run but for these protos we are doing in house.
The powder coating is coating the whole main grip part after it’s been anodized gloss black and the top of the grips polished off to reveal the alu.
Then from there it’s gets coated black chrome or stain black chrome.
One will be chose in the end for the run
 

Technocyte

New Member
The first version had rubber grips for the raised areas that fell off very easily no matter what adhesive we used
It also had visible seams, so we went with the machined alu version.
It’s 4 axis machining so there is no chamfers.
Adding the coat of pc to color the raw Alu did round it out a bit much like a chamfer.
You are right that this last proto didn’t have as high of grips, we addressed that on the production files.
So raised areas will be higher.
Regarding color we are trying one more powder coating type.
After we try that we will show a comparison of the 2 and let the majority decide.
We likely will have the powder coating done here in town for the run but for these protos we are doing in house.
The powder coating is coating the whole main grip part after it’s been anodized gloss black and the top of the grips polished off to reveal the alu.
Then from there it’s gets coated black chrome or stain black chrome.
One will be chose in the end for the run

Thanks for the quick reply! That makes sense. So the final finish will be decided later.

How does the unchamfered grip feel in hand? Is it still comfortable to hold?
 

Saberbay

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Thanks for the quick reply! That makes sense. So the final finish will be decided later.

How does the unchamfered grip feel in hand? Is it still comfortable to hold?
The rubber gripped one felt good, but the molded rubber just fell off way too easy.... so was not a real solution.
I building an odd shaped saber like this you have to choose some function or fashion in small ways or those who plan to troop or play with them wont run into troubles so quickly.
Remember we are working with renders of what was 3d printed for the first season, we have no clue how its actually colored. For season 2 we could kind of see it better but it also a different machined version.
This has all been a process in finding a good middle ground. The disney parks saber and the hasbro version get a nice texture and color on the main grip but they also use a lot of plastic to do it... so it feels cheap
 

Technocyte

New Member
The rubber gripped one felt good, but the molded rubber just fell off way too easy.... so was not a real solution.
I building an odd shaped saber like this you have to choose some function or fashion in small ways or those who plan to troop or play with them wont run into troubles so quickly.
Remember we are working with renders of what was 3d printed for the first season, we have no clue how its actually colored. For season 2 we could kind of see it better but it also a different machined version.
This has all been a process in finding a good middle ground. The disney parks saber and the hasbro version get a nice texture and color on the main grip but they also use a lot of plastic to do it... so it feels cheap
I know you’ve likely already considered or tried it but figure it’s worth mentioning. Have you attempted to bead blast the parts before putting it through the anodization?
 

The Sweatshop

Well-Known Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Hey guys,

Hope everyone is having a good holiday season!

So I recently joined the run and I've been looking through the post, and I'm just wondering if it's me, or if the cross section of the raised portions on the grip has changed to be flatter or not as elevated or chamfered? It definitely looks like it has lost some of its definition. I've added a picture below for reference. Additionally I'd like to understand what the goal is in terms of colour. I read in previous comments that it would be discussed but I haven't seen much discussion as to where the colour is heading. In my POV it definitely seems a lot more glossy than the Project DSLA renders, and a lot less along the original colour scheme.

View attachment 1524692
It’s seems like an obvious path but might not be feasible, but if wanting to achieve the renders texture, Kennedy machinist toolboxes have a similar texture, I know there is touchup cans, but they also powder coat their tool boxes now. I’m not sure if it’s the category of paint they use but on other machinist forums they sometimes call it VHT wrinkle paint. I’m no expert.

Kennedy
2460AFB7-2051-45DD-9573-A18C2114DF77.jpeg


Random car part with VHT wrinkle plus
3718A6A6-A43A-45FB-9EAA-3171CC1B27DC.jpeg
2E42A53E-E49A-4C50-82D5-9D915A4168B4.jpeg
 

Technocyte

New Member
It’s seems like an obvious path but might not be feasible, but if wanting to achieve the renders texture, Kennedy machinist toolboxes have a similar texture, I know there is touchup cans, but they also powder coat their tool boxes now. I’m not sure if it’s the category of paint they use but on other machinist forums they sometimes call it VHT wrinkle paint. I’m no expert.
I feel if painting is the goal to get that texture, cerakote would make more sense due to it's durability. Commonly used on firearms.
 

Saberbay

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
It’s seems like an obvious path but might not be feasible, but if wanting to achieve the renders texture, Kennedy machinist toolboxes have a similar texture, I know there is touchup cans, but they also powder coat their tool boxes now. I’m not sure if it’s the category of paint they use but on other machinist forums they sometimes call it VHT wrinkle paint. I’m no expert.

Kennedy
View attachment 1524779

Random car part with VHT wrinkle plus
View attachment 1524784 View attachment 1524785
we are aware of such powder but the cost to mask all the recessed areas would be very high and the success rate would be low. reason we are doing the whole coat over the part after the fact of having black then bare alu on raised areas
 

Saberbay

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
I feel if painting is the goal to get that texture, cerakote would make more sense due to it's durability. Commonly used on firearms.
yes but not in two tone like this with the raised, non symmetrical areas being one color and the recesses being another
 

Saberbay

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
I know you’ve likely already considered or tried it but figure it’s worth mentioning. Have you attempted to bead blast the parts before putting it through the anodization?
first issue with that would be when you sand/media blast a metal small object get stuck in the surface causing anodize finishes to come out un even,
plus if it were to work removing the black via polishing/sanding would expose bare alu not beadblasted graint alu
 

The Sweatshop

Well-Known Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
we are aware of such powder but the cost to mask all the recessed areas would be very high and the success rate would be low. reason we are doing the whole coat over the part after the fact of having black then bare alu on raised areas
Still trying to throw fresh ideas out there.
If you plan on exposing the aluminum then painting then coating another color I think a masking is still possible. I’ll do my best to explain, i kinda wish I had a resin print to test and show with pictures.

>Powder coat raw aluminum gloss black
>dip handle pieces in masking medium(I’m personally thinking of something closer to a wax rather than something like latex masking because next step might pull up mask to easily, then again it might not, I wish I could test it myself.)
>take gloss black mask dipped pieces and polish raised edges revealing bare aluminum and leaving mask in recessed areas.
>coat bare parts with whichever preferred texture paint, let set and remove mask by pealing or with heat, if it’s more like a wax.
 

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