Ryan Gosling 'K' - Blade Runner 2049!
- Thread starter robertsonick
- Start date
looks really sharp, man. Bravo. If you could only convince Zlurpo to source the same material that Soul Revolver has, and get better shearling, this would be the coat to rule them all. I'd buy one in a hearteat.
achilles
New Member
Hey everybody,
thanks for the welcome. I wrote a lengthy first post, and I knew that it could be interpreted as running against the grain of the forum and easily be dismissed. Some responses point to that. I will try to respond in detail the following days. I have to first find out how to quote etc. and time is always limited.
As quick as possible: in my post I express different viewpoints simultaneously, hence the misunderstandings, I think.
Of course, your view is sort of: „Oh my, it is even worse than I thought!“ I‘d rather put a positive spin on things: „All right, the lapels are more or less the right size on the current version. Let‘s make sure it stays that way when advising the designer for the possible update.“ Different viewpoints. All good. If future buyers can benefit from that…
Will be back. Bye!
EDIT: typo.
thanks for the welcome. I wrote a lengthy first post, and I knew that it could be interpreted as running against the grain of the forum and easily be dismissed. Some responses point to that. I will try to respond in detail the following days. I have to first find out how to quote etc. and time is always limited.
As quick as possible: in my post I express different viewpoints simultaneously, hence the misunderstandings, I think.
- The viewpoint of having an excellent garment with 80% accuracy, being chill about that and enjoying it now, despite knowing pretty exactly what is wrong about it in the first place (the last 20% this forum is all about).
- The fascination with that 20%, which I share (no, that is no contradiction to the first point).
- The realities of running a business that has to make profit now, so it can later hopefully deliver a better product, and examples that in the long run it is usually so.
- Access to the actual screen-used costumes is a crucial step.
- Until then it is detective work and patience.
- Practicality vs accuracy.
Of course, your view is sort of: „Oh my, it is even worse than I thought!“ I‘d rather put a positive spin on things: „All right, the lapels are more or less the right size on the current version. Let‘s make sure it stays that way when advising the designer for the possible update.“ Different viewpoints. All good. If future buyers can benefit from that…
Will be back. Bye!
EDIT: typo.
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Lol. This is not a matter of convincing.
Mechanismo
Well-Known Member
Hi achilles,
There’s no doubt about it, Soul Revolver is a damn good-looking coat. The superb material, color, laminated cotton, robust construction, tailored fit is something all of us here are massively impressed by. Vibe-wise, it really screams "BR 2049."
However, to suggest their current coat is “80% accurate” is a stretch IMO. There’s still quite a laundry list of remaining issues:
- incorrect collar pattern/design
- incorrect collar placement
- incorrect cuff pattern
- incorrect shoulder panel construction (i.e. absence of structuring)
- absence of piping or piping effect in key areas
- absence of magnets
- incorrect lapel placement/positioning (as you’ve now pointed out) [they should perhaps be placed slightly further up the chest in accordance to the shorter collar]
- incorrect shearling
It’s one thing for customers to try and correct certain things post-sale (like shearling and collar positioning) which, as we’ve seen, is achievable. But, practically, there’s little a private tailor can do to tinker with other more structural aspects of the coat (like amending the cuff pattern or lapel size/positioning). Amending these issues is something that can really only be done by a coat retailer’s design team. In other words, trial and error until you get it right. [And I hear you about the Raiders jacket…I ordered one from Peter Botwright/Wested way back in 1998].
In any event, as I expressed to Lyrion , hopefully Soul Revolver’s 2.0 coat will successfully address all of these issues, and like I say, we’re all on the sidelines rooting for them.
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well then, I guess it is a matter of not being able to (or wanting to) change the fabric. Either way, it's a shame because Jameel has done fantastic work here. But the shearling and the material are still way off.
THIS! Exactly right. We're rooting for any coatmaker who wants to get it right and is spending the time and effort to do so, be it Zlurpo/Jameel, SR or Magnoli. I'd say that the latter has fallen off this race as they seem to have checked out. We appreciate the efforts from Zlurpo and SR but there is still more ground to cover and we're all rooting for and are ready to support financially any coatmaker who goes the extra mile to get this to the most SA position possible. Fingers crossed.
No, that would be convincing. This is a lack of ability to magically just know who the supplier is, and get them to ship to Pakistan in the quantities I would need.
right. You know, we can be sarcastic all day and accomplish nothing. It doesn't have to their material - we are merely saying that SR's material is a lot more accurate and SA. And just better looking than yours. Not to mention its quality. If you can't find anything like it, then that's that.
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achilles
New Member
Regarding the four stitches: it reeks of something the costume department did, so that alterations on set can be done and undone quickly between scenes. The scene at the start of movie where we see the collar in the up position as he walks out of the mist has the collar separated from the lapel (there is a really good picture in the Art of BR2049 book showing that detail). If I saw that on a high quality Belstaff coat, for example, it would possibly be a factor contributing to not buying it.
Of course, the stitches are there to fix the collar to the lapel, making the configuration seen the most in the movie possible. But would you want this rather cheap connection? Or wouldn’t something sturdier or more practical not be a plus?
The stitches are possibly also there to make the the collar flush with the lapel, as seen in the rooftop scene. But there would be a lot of bunched up collar material, which we don’t see. Or they specifically made a coat to be worn in that rooftop configuration.
I do believe that there a different coats made for the collar up position. For the collar down? I don‘t know. But on screen evidence (the best kind of evidence?) shows that Renée April wanted the collar flush with the lapel. It would be very good to see that honored in a replica. That’s why I showed that detail on the current SR coat.
Can on screen accuracy be achieved on both ends of the collar? I sure hope so. And lapel position and size should not be overlooked and adjusted accordingly.
Conversely, IMHO collar alterations on the CURRENT version are problematic and are not something I am planning to do. Practical alterations are.
achilles
New Member
That really is a misreading of my various points. Please see my other posts above, where I try to clarify. I am not „for a all or nothing approach“ and from a total-screen-accuracy perspective there is a lot wrong with the current SR coat.
I just won’t alter my coat to fix one (albeit crucial) detail, while others are thrown out of alignment. The left side of the collar you can hide, and I would accept that in a production coat that only has sizes S, M, L, etc., if it isn’t possible to make the collar/lapel flush for various body types and forms. You can‘t hide the enlarged lapel.
If you value the corrected right collar over all other details, then all the power to you! I truly mean it: enjoy your coat!
As for the shearling, I didn’t write anything about it in my first post. I will replace it only if I can find a material that is of high quality and will last a long time. And since on the current version of my coat I am not that beholden to screen accuracy, I have a bit more leeway in my search for it. Yet, search unsuccessful so far.
achilles
New Member
Different coats for when the collar is worn turned up? That is my working theory.
Definitive proof? I don’t have any. Just pointers.
When we see the collar worn in the up position, the buckle is installed in the middle of where the right and left collar edges meet. It looks good. But does this buckle position not hinder the correct folding of the right collar when worn in the down position?
That is I why Magnoli changed the position of the buckle. They moved it up a bit. You can see that on page 35 of this thread, where an owner was kind enough to provide pictures of his coat.
SR, on the other hand, did move it down.
Both changes make it easier to fold the collar around the buckle an the material securing it in place. Based on the assumption that the movie coat material behaves similar to the SR coat material (very stiff when double layered), I think it is at least difficult to make it fold nicely.
The buckle would also likely be positioned crosswise, like you can see on the updated coat by Jameel Ur right on this page. It does peek out. We never see this in the movie.
Maybe they did remove the buckle for the collar-down-coats or they didn’t even install it in the first place. Without the buckle, folding is facilitated.
This picture shows the upturned collar and a longer left collar. Do the coats NEED a longer left collar to make it work in the up position? Don’t know. All that can be concluded from this is, that the costume department wanted at least one coat with a longer left collar. Yet, I find the damage on the right collar just below the buckle most peculiar. Did they fold the collar like we see in the movie and the buckle was made to „behave“ and stay in place (glue?). It is not uncommon to use such measures on film sets - costumes are downright abused. Or it is just a prototype coat. Not enough data.
Thoughts? How does WSL solve this? And what would you like to see on a replica? The buckle position has practical implications, at least.
Definitive proof? I don’t have any. Just pointers.
When we see the collar worn in the up position, the buckle is installed in the middle of where the right and left collar edges meet. It looks good. But does this buckle position not hinder the correct folding of the right collar when worn in the down position?
That is I why Magnoli changed the position of the buckle. They moved it up a bit. You can see that on page 35 of this thread, where an owner was kind enough to provide pictures of his coat.
SR, on the other hand, did move it down.
Both changes make it easier to fold the collar around the buckle an the material securing it in place. Based on the assumption that the movie coat material behaves similar to the SR coat material (very stiff when double layered), I think it is at least difficult to make it fold nicely.
The buckle would also likely be positioned crosswise, like you can see on the updated coat by Jameel Ur right on this page. It does peek out. We never see this in the movie.
Maybe they did remove the buckle for the collar-down-coats or they didn’t even install it in the first place. Without the buckle, folding is facilitated.
This picture shows the upturned collar and a longer left collar. Do the coats NEED a longer left collar to make it work in the up position? Don’t know. All that can be concluded from this is, that the costume department wanted at least one coat with a longer left collar. Yet, I find the damage on the right collar just below the buckle most peculiar. Did they fold the collar like we see in the movie and the buckle was made to „behave“ and stay in place (glue?). It is not uncommon to use such measures on film sets - costumes are downright abused. Or it is just a prototype coat. Not enough data.
Thoughts? How does WSL solve this? And what would you like to see on a replica? The buckle position has practical implications, at least.
agreed.
fair enough. we can agree to disagree on some of these issues.
drizztd0urden
New Member
I've been lurking on this thread for years now, somewhat hesitant to make the purchase - mainly because I dont have the time and the willpower to do the final changes that would make the coat "just right".
So I'm writing now because I wanted to jump on the bandwagon and say that if these changes were implemented I'll surely count among the many satisfied SR buyers!
So I'm writing now because I wanted to jump on the bandwagon and say that if these changes were implemented I'll surely count among the many satisfied SR buyers!
With all due respect, I don't blame Zlurpo for being defensive--your post implied he was refusing to change the fabric out of sheer stubbornness! He's explained more than once in this thread that he was unable to source any coated fabric similar to SR's (and he went into detail about the reasons it couldn't be custom-made) so I don't think it's productive to keep reiterating that complaint. He already knows that we'd all love to see them switch to a fabric like this, and I imagine that if the situation changes and they're able to source a similar material, he'll let us know.
Zlurpo and Jameel have, to date, been the most receptive of all of the requests and feedback in this thread. No need to give them grief over this one element that they've already explained is out of their control.
Is this still the black waxed cotton that you showed a few months back? Or is the base fabric a dark gray or dark green? Maybe it's just a different lighting than your earlier photos, but this looks closer to the prop coat's color to me!
