Rust-oleum 2X Primer - Yay or Nay

[Jimmer]

I live in a very small town, Walmart and Big Lots are about the extent of our retail outlets excluding "mom and pop" stores.
I try to plan ahead and stay stocked on materials but inevitably run low now and then and my nearest source of true hobby products (Testors, Vallejo, etc) is a 45 minute drive one way.
I am starting a new R2/R5 Bandai kit and am out of Primer, so grabbed a can of Rust-oleum 2x ultra coverage flat black primer for R2's dome.
Of course I will do a test run on sprue and the plastic spoon test (both tests with the metallic paint and sealer). I also just did some online research with conflicting reports.
Anyone here used this that could share any negative (or positive) results they've had? Really wanted to get this started, but maybe I should just be patient til the weekend when I can grab proper material.
Still gonna do the tests, but if anyone has feedback that'd be great.
Thanks

 

[Laspector]

It's great for painting stuff like boards and furniture because it goes on thick and usually requires only one coat. Be careful with it for models and such, because, like I said, it goes on thick!

I have the same problem living in a small town. Walmart and a couple of Mom and Pop hardware stores are all I have, too. My Walmart seems to have gone to pretty much nothing but that 2X stuff.

 

[g0rb]

I have the same problem living in a small town. Walmart and a couple of Mom and Pop hardware stores are all I have, too. My Walmart seems to have gone to pretty much nothing but that 2X stuff.

I think it is not specifically a small town problem. We are in LA, and the Walmart close to me has almost nothing but the 2X stuff either. I am thinking of splurging on some "proper" vallejo (or similar) airbrush primer via Ama$on.

 

[Richard Baker]

I have had a problem with the new nozzle design- sometimes it works great, other times it is spotty and uneven. One can dripped more than it sprayed.
I called the company and they did issue a refund, but that does not help a ruined project much- I am just glad I was doing things around the house instead of finishing a model build...

 

[adphill]

Warming up rattle cans can also help with getting a thinner coat. I will sometimes put a can in a ziplock bag and set it in some hot water from the tap until the can warms up.

I initially warmed cans with near-boiling water from a tea kettle, until the concave bit at the bottom of a spray can reversed itself with a loud bang.

 

[Analyzer]

There was actually a Krylon paint I was using as a primer that was pretty impressive. It was an extremely smooth finish. took a little longer to fully dry (or at least no longer feel slightly tacky) vs something like the Army Painter primer that was fully dry in 15 minutes or so, but it was good to go once it did dry.

I can't remeber the exact name, but it was listed as being a satin type of finish

 

[Jkirkon]

I gave up on rattle can primers long ago. I shoot Stynylrez straight through a $25 airbrush. Awesome stuff, doesn’t hide fine details, and sprays straight out of the bottle. Smoothest primer finish I have ever seen.

Amazon carries it, so I order it through them when I run low. Relatively inexpensive too.

Stynylrez

 

[edge10]

There was actually a Krylon paint I was using as a primer that was pretty impressive. It was an extremely smooth finish. took a little longer to fully dry (or at least no longer feel slightly tacky) vs something like the Army Painter primer that was fully dry in 15 minutes or so, but it was good to go once it did dry.

I can't remeber the exact name, but it was listed as being a satin type of finish

I have to agree. I love the Krylon gray spray primer. Big can, cheap, goes on smooth and doesn't run. It looks like it goes on pretty much dry, if that makes sense.

 

[TazMan2000]

I use that stuff for painting 3D prints to cover up the layering. Yes, it does go on thick, as this stuff was designed to do. It will obscure fine details so watch out.

TazMan2000

 

[Captain Dunsel]

I don’t always use rattle cans...

...but when I do, I always grab Krylon over Rustoleum. I believe Rustoleum is oil-based. It goes on thicker and takes longer to dry. I have found, depending upon the overall climate, that one can place fingerprints in Rustoleum even 24 hours after the initial spraying.

Stay thirsty my friends.

 

[Jimmer]

Thanks for all the info, everyone.
Started this discussion, then had to leave town following morning, just got back.
From feedback, I think I could get away with the Rust-oleum 2X since I was gonna hit R2's dome (not a ton of detail to obscure) but still enough detail, and tight fit areas, that I'm gonna steer clear of 2x. Luckily my unexpected trip did away with my temptation to use 2x rather than wait til I could get to a better primer.
Anyway, thanks for all the replies, sorry I'm just responding to the feedback.