Russrep Obi clamp spacer proto pictures.

[Howard]

Here's the clamp spacer I designed for the Obi parts run. I received this today in the mail from Russ, so here are a few pictures with an explanation as to how it works.

The spacer simply sits in the clamp with two extensions either end of the middle clamp section.


By howardsw

To the right, the thicker extension slides into the grenade as a pressure fit. On the run version, there will be a lathed channel, similar to the channel on the cone reflector to allow the user to source either a rubber O ring, or apply epoxy for a permanent fit.

Below, you can see the extension fitting into the grenade body.
Also note the milled channel. This is to allow the transistor bolts with nuts to pass through the spacer.


By howardsw

Below you can see there's ample room for the nuts, even if a little epoxy is applied.


By howardsw

Below is the booster end, seen here with my real booster. Again, a simple pressure fit, and once again this area will feature a lathed channel for an O ring or epoxy. On the production version this area will be 10mm longer.


By howardsw

I know a few of you thought we'd go with a thread to match the threading of the inside of the booster here. The reason we didn't were firstly to cut costs, as this is an extra set-up and would take longer.
Secondly (and most important for me) a thread would have to be absolutely exact, so the booster screws tight to match the pics of the prop. It's far easier to just O ring or glue mount this section, allowing the user to match the reference material exactly as they see fit, as the threading on the booster is quite wide.

The clamp section also has a milled channel to allow the clamp tabs to pass through, machined so as that all important slot is visible.



A price for these is yet to be determined, and a sign-up thread will appear in the next couple of weeks.
This is practically (apart from a few measurement tweaks and lathed channels, as mentioned) what Russ will be offering.
I hope you like it!

Thanks for looking, and thanks Russ!

Howard.

 

[Robiwon]

Wow, that looks great. Also a good idea on not making thisa a threaded part to be honest. Can't wait for these to be available! Any idea of cost? I can't imagine they would cost a lot.

 

[defstartrooper]

Sweet

 

[Ripcode]

Interesting.

 

[Howard]

Any idea of cost? I can't imagine they would cost a lot.

I have no idea at the moment to be honest, it's up to Russ - but I can't see them being that expensive.
Russ will no doubt run tier pricing as usual, so the more required, the cheaper they become.

Thanks guys!

 

[Westies14]

Looks good! I like the milled channel for the resistors.

Is there any possibility of a threaded option/version? I'd really like it to screw into the grenade at least... I'd like to thread it into the booster as well though. I like being able to assemble/disassemble the components, and that was a big draw for me in getting in on this run - I should have asked, but I assumed based on who was making the parts that the finished product would be mostly mechanical connections... A lot of epoxy is coming into play now though.

My purchases for the rest of the parts aren't contingent on that option being available or anything, but I would very much prefer that direction!

- Douglas

 

[Howard]

Hi Douglas,

We did discuss the threading option, as both the grenade and booster have threads already that could have been used.
The only problem here is one of alignment. The thread would have to be so exact so as when all the parts are screwed together, the saber matches the positional ratios between each component as seen in the reference pictures.
Also (and something I overlooked to point out in my first post) the spacer's centre clamp section is foreshortened, allowing the user to position the grenade with the first lathed grove edge starting at the very edge of the clamp (for a neat AFBB look) or, with most of that groove hidden inside the clamp as per the reference pictures.
As there's so little threading on the inside of the frag body (which is accurate to real grenades) the possibility of offering both of these positional options (and matching alignment as mentioned above) would be a problem.
There's not really a great deal of epoxy involved - four main joins (emitter to cone, frag body to spacer, spacer to booster, booster to handwheel) with a permanent display of the finished prop in mind, as the majority of the replica props and models produced these days by companies use glue for their replicas also.

Looks good! I like the milled channel for the resistors.

Is there any possibility of a threaded option/version? I'd really like it to screw into the grenade at least... I'd like to thread it into the booster as well though. I like being able to assemble/disassemble the components, and that was a big draw for me in getting in on this run - I should have asked, but I assumed based on who was making the parts that the finished product would be mostly mechanical connections... A lot of epoxy is coming into play now though.

My purchases for the rest of the parts aren't contingent on that option being available or anything, but I would very much prefer that direction!

- Douglas

 

[Westies14]

What if we care more about the threading than the precise turning/alignment? Would it be possible then? :lol

 

[defstartrooper]

Looks good! I like the milled channel for the resistors.

Is there any possibility of a threaded option/version? I'd really like it to screw into the grenade at least... I'd like to thread it into the booster as well though. I like being able to assemble/disassemble the components, and that was a big draw for me in getting in on this run - I should have asked, but I assumed based on who was making the parts that the finished product would be mostly mechanical connections... A lot of epoxy is coming into play now though.

My purchases for the rest of the parts aren't contingent on that option being available or anything, but I would very much prefer that direction!

- Douglas

Go with the O-ring option that's what i'm using then you can take it apart easily.

 

[Westies14]

Go with the O-ring option that's what i'm using then you can take it apart easily.

I may end up doing that, but that doesn't give it as solid a feel when it's together... I might just go to Russ to discuss a custom spacer if no one else is interested in a threaded run!

 

[Howard]

What if we care more about the threading than the precise turning/alignment? Would it be possible then? :lol

Well anything's possible - I'm sure Russ will be able to accomodate your needs, but threading will be more costly. For the purpose of accuracy and cost effectiveness, I thought this was the best way forward. Accuracy regards alignment of these pieces has always been my foremost concern when I drew up this spacer.

 

[Peacefrog35]

I like the design and am actually pleased that there are no threads. I thought about it a while ago and knew that threads would make alignment near impossible. If anyone's saber was aligned correctly, it would have been a fluke . I do like the o ring idea. I would imagine these would give a fairly tight fit. Where does one buy O rings?

 

[defstartrooper]

I may end up doing that, but that doesn't give it as solid a feel when it's together... I might just go to Russ to discuss a custom spacer if no one else is interested in a threaded run!

Yeah true but this isn't like it's going to do anything other than sit on a shelf it will stay together well enough for me.

I like the design and am actually pleased that there are no threads. I thought about it a while ago and knew that threads would make alignment near impossible. If anyone's saber was aligned correctly, it would have been a fluke . I do like the o ring idea. I would imagine these would give a fairly tight fit. Where does one buy O rings?

Hardware supply stores electrical supply stores engineering supply stores.

 

[TridCloudwalker]

Where does one buy O rings?

If you have a Harbor Freight near you, you can get two different sized boxes of assorted O-Ring varieties.

You can get them just about anywhere, but you absolutely can't find any, shoot me a PM and I'll send you a few from my bigass box.

 

[darth_myeek]

O-Rings, at least in the US are located in the plumbing section of Ace hardware. Even teflon tape would work.

Howard, thanks for the update! I am good with it. I was originally thinking the transistors would screw into the clamp spacer like a similar spacer out there.

I like the friction fit idea.

-DM

 

[Darth Lars]

I am a little bit disappointed that you did not make it more like the ANM2 Flash Hider cone with discs on it, and engineered the piece to make the screws go between the discs. Only the bottom-most disc is 1 1/2" diameter, with the others being 1 1/4" diameter, so they wouldn't interfere with any nuts.

By using discs, having the lower end piece threaded for the booster and having it threaded straight through for a threaded rod (that screws into the "emitter cone"), then no glue would be necessary and you wouldn't have to care about alignment.

Then those of us who want a proper ANM2 flash hider replica inside could opt for having the hex nut milled and ring of holes drilled, at extra cost, while those who do not care about those things could have it without.

 

[Straycatt]

I look forward to these, and the handwheels, being done so I can start assembly. Nice simple design, that does the trick. Thanks go to you Howard, and to Russ, for tackling this.

-Adam

 

[TV8]

Very tidy and cost effective design. Agree that threading anything is problematic as not everyone is using only Russrep parts on their sabers.

 

[Ripcode]

I don't care what's under the clamp as long as all the parts can be assembled.

 

[TridCloudwalker]

I don't care what's under the clamp as long as all the parts can be assembled.

Here, here!!