Rubies TOS Phaser budget build

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Vincent V

Active Member
For some reason I felt compelled to order one of the super cheap Rubie's TOS phasers with my last Amazon order.

Now that I have this hideously colored toy sitting on my desk I've decided to use it for a budget phaser build. The plan is to make it as accurate as possible while keeping the total cost well south of the $30 for the more accurate DST phaser (otherwise why not just buy the DST, right?).

Note: I will not be cutting the type 1 phaser out of the type 2. It would be cool to make it removeable but I am doubtful that it could be done without pushing the cost to close to that of the DST.

So, here is what I'm starting with:
01.jpg

The first step is to take the thing apart:
02.jpg

The fins and emitter proved a bit difficult as they were glued VERY firmly into place. However, with a hair dryer and little effort I was able to remove them. I also broke off the orange power indicator on the type 1 because it should be clear. For now I'm patching the hole where that piece was while I try to figure out what small, clear, cylindrical item I can replace it with (recommendations?). I should have a little more progress tomorrow.
 

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Vincent V

Active Member
Patched the hole were the type-I's power indicator used to be with masking tape and jb weld.
03_zpsqsbxtq2u.jpg

I did some work on the fins. Cut the slant into the front of the fins piece and took the excess plastic + some jb weld to make the phaser body match. Still need a little touching up but I think this will make the fins much more accurate.
04_zps9nin1g73.jpg

Need to find/make a phaser release button, and I've got to find clear parts for the beam emitter and power indicator.
 

Trebor

Active Member
How well does it match the original in terms of size and dimensions? I mean, is it essentially 1:1 scale or scaled down to 75% or what?

Just curious because I've thought of buying a bunch of these and building a "Six phaser pack" that would essentially by a "hand held armory case" based on the wall mount phaser storage in the shuttle in Galleio 7. I mean, that's an extrapolated prop, but I can't really dig into my wall to replicate the shuttle setup and I thought a square case with that same kind of swing out door and six phasers inside would be kinda cool.

Another reason is I absolutey SUCK at crafty type projects, have very little skill or tools, and this would be something cheap to practice with and work on learning stuff. Making the case will be the hardest part.

But, if the Rubies are 3/4 scale or something I'll have to go another route as I want full size
 

Vincent V

Active Member
How well does it match the original in terms of size and dimensions? I mean, is it essentially 1:1 scale or scaled down to 75% or what?

Yea, they are 1:1 scale. The main drawback to this phaser is that the type-I is not removeable, but I think it's a great option for the sort of project you describe.
 

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Vincent V

Active Member
They really aren't bad at all. Accurate size and shape + pretty good sound for $12.

I started painting, but today proved extremely windy and my paint job got kinda screwed up. So now I've got to wait for it to finish drying, sand a few areas back down, and give it another coat.

Decided to order some blue LEDs so I can have light when I pull the trigger. Got 100 LEDs + resisters for $5, so I guess I'll have a few extras :D
 

Blackbirdcd

Well-Known Member
To me it resembles the older Playmates Star Trek phaser from the 90's. My guess is that they used the same molds perhaps? It was a really good phaser for its time.
 

Vincent V

Active Member
Definitely not the same molds, there are quite a few difference if you compare them side by side.

I think the rubies is much better sized/proportioned than the old playmates.
 

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ranallace

Well-Known Member
Don't keep track of money - wasn't very much - if I had to guess 40 bucks ? Maybe ?

the type 1 I ended up using is a flawed casting I made from " the ILM phaser " - which is in my possession
- I made the castings so that local folks , convention folks, and ship mates could get a chance to hold a second generation casting of an original piece and not risk damaging the original first gen casting ( which we guard quite closely ) - and since its been an issue in the past , please take note of the following statement - Ahem ......

NONE will be given , traded , or generally sold - only 10 type ones ( first 4 very flawed due to inexperienced casting methods ) and 5 complete type 1 and 2 castings were made , and we destroyed ( cut up to re-use ) the mold rubber - The first is our one we let folks handle and play with , then I have one , brother has one , I gave one to a close friend and prop collector , and the final one is on this rubies ......


- the other type ones pictured as test fit items thru- out my thread are a DST , a recast I bought off eBay , and one of my own carving- design - which I finished some time ago ....... I have also designed my own type 2 to go with it and have 2 more prototypes currently being carved / sculpted by myself ....


** have you looked over on the trekpropzone ? You migh find that interesting as well
 
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Vincent V

Active Member
Don't worry, I wasn't asking about it because I want to buy one of them. I was simply curious about your project and where that part came from. I have no intention of cutting the type-I out of the rubie's phaser anyway.
 

ranallace

Well-Known Member
Cutting out and replacing the type 1 is the biggest improvement I think that can be made to these - I took mine kinda far ....LOL .......and have since done more work to it - I have a few recast p-1's that I got in a lot of stuff from xXXXXx ( sellers name deleted - known reseller ) on eBay - didn't know was recast stuff at that time - they are just taking up space In a box of stuff I will never use - if ya want To keep the costs down , and don't mind that they are recasts , and want to try cutting yours out then I can dig one out and send you one to test fit in there - just trying to help - if you need any help with it don't hesitate to contact me
 
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ranallace

Well-Known Member
Don't worry, I wasn't asking about it because I want to buy one of them. I was simply curious about your project and where that part came from.


this phaser has caused me some issues in the past - I didn't mean to imply you did , my good man , was just a general statement - around here and the prop world in general , recasting is a mortal sin , LOL - even though we are all sinners in this hobby And most ALL shops and sellers do it to have cool stuff for thier collections , while most NEVER re-sell the items , just keep for thier own collections - they can't be honest with the world and admit that it goes on, for fear of damaging thier professional reputations - so most will never admit to that publicly for fear of being shunned by the community
I have no professional reputation. Or shop to worry about , I'm not a prop dealer , or even that good at casting. Thus all the bad parts. Kicking around. My hobby room -what I AM is an artist , who loves trek and occasionally works in that genre

And yes - I've been a victim of it - had 2 of my replica props , that I worked on for weeks to get right , they have been recast and replicas sold as well - so I've felt that Sting
- my agonizer and my hypo - both victims
and that's the reason I never released my Star Trek TOS medical kit - just made them for friends and moved on -

* for the phaser release button you can use wood dowell or brass rod - available at hobby shops
* for the clear emitter tip - I found a clear click pen and used that
 
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Vincent V

Active Member
Cutting out and replacing the type 1 is the biggest improvement I think that can be made to these

True, but I really feel like it would be hard to replace the type-1 without increasing to cost to the point where I should have just bought the DST phaser. I kinda want to see how cheaply a reasonably accurate toy phaser can be made. On this build I'm just gonna fix a few inaccuracies and mess with the electronics. These Rubie's phasers are cheap enough that I'll pick up another one and go much further just for the heck of it after this build.

* for the phaser release button you can use wood dowell or brass rod - available at hobby shops
* for the clear emitter tip - I found a clear click pen and used that

I've been really stumped trying to figure out a good emitter, I like the idea of trying to find a pen clicker that will work. Thanks for the advice.

For the clear power indicator I made a tiny mold out of a Mike and Ike box and some electric tape and poured some epoxy into it. Absolutely terrible materials for a mold, but they happened to be sitting there in front of me when I had the idea....

05.jpg

It's not really clear enough to put numbers under it. But it's still better than the orange one that was on the toy to begin with. Unless I figure out a better solution I'll probably use this.
 

robn1

Master Member
...For the clear power indicator I made a tiny mold out of a Mike and Ike box and some electric tape and poured some epoxy into it. Absolutely terrible materials for a mold, but they happened to be sitting there in front of me when I had the idea....

View attachment 601228

It's not really clear enough to put numbers under it. But it's still better than the orange one that was on the toy to begin with. Unless I figure out a better solution I'll probably use this.

What epoxy did you use? Most are too thick to release bubbles and aren't very clear. Try EasyCast Epoxy http://www.michaels.com/easy-cast-clear-casting-epoxy/10408248.html
 

Vincent V

Active Member
What epoxy did you use? Most are too thick to release bubbles and aren't very clear. Try EasyCast Epoxy

The stuff I used wasn't meant for casting, it's just something I picked up from Harbor Freight for $0.99 a while back.

Side Note: I just looked through some of your "Phaser scratch build thread" and that has got to be some of the coolest work I've ever seen. Did you finish that project?
 

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