ROTARY TOOL/DREMEL HELP!!!!!!RUBIES VADER HELMET

darth_manu

Well-Known Member
after seeing everyone using a dremel/rotary tool to modify their rubies vader helmet to cut out the linings near the eyes. I bought myself one.
I want to cut out the 2 parts in red, they are pretty thin. around 2-3mm thick
pic borrowed from Darth Domain's

But when I use the tool with the cutting disc(i circled it on the manual and picture below) the whole disc breaks. :angry
The manual doesn't say how to use this, it just illustrate how to turn it on and change accessories

am i doing something wrong here? am i using the wrong accessory?
please someone help

 
uhm... well, kinda obvious but you are using those cutting discs.

they suck.

they have fiberglass ones that cut a bajillion times better, and less shrapnel to pick out of your forehead (how i gave up those discs).

:)
chris
 
what material are you trying to cut. about the only thing I use those for is cutting metal pins and nails and whatnot. if you apply any kind of pressure across the disc, it will break. I have a metal cutting tool like that for cutting plastic/resin/etc...
 
I'm just trying to cut abs plastic, pretty thin too
and the damn disc broke .lol
do i need to buy a metal disc for this rotary tool?
or is the tool useless now. :(
 
Originally posted by darth_manu@Feb 14 2006, 05:04 PM
I'm just trying to cut abs plastic, pretty thin too
and the damn disc broke .lol
do i need to buy a metal disc for this rotary tool?
or is the tool useless now.  :(
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id just cut it with tin snips if possible, and then smooth the edges. or just get better cutting discs. if its a wireless rotary tool it might just be the tool isnt strong enough, ive seen wireless rotary tools that you can stop with your fingers, arent very strong. good luck.
 
Use the Heavy cut-off disk. The "regular" ones are garbage (as you've already noticed).

I usually use the fiberglass cut off wheel.
 
Originally posted by TK9120@Feb 15 2006, 02:01 AM
I would use one of the grinding stones. Just grind the main stuff away then thake light passes to clean it up.
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I agree with the grinding stones. Those cutting discs have minds of their own and have almost impaled myself with them on several occasions when they decided to "cut loose".

Safety goggles, friend...
 
Originally posted by TK9120@Feb 14 2006, 10:01 PM
I would use one of the grinding stones. Just grind the main stuff away then thake light passes to clean it up.
[snapback]1184568[/snapback]​

Yes, I used the grinding tool to do mine. I suggest that.

I also agree that you need to use a fiberglass cutting wheel if you are going use a cutting wheel. And remember to wear those safety glasses. :D
 
I usually yse the tungsten cutting bit myself. Use the heavy duty fiber-reinforced wheels if you need to cut a stright line. Those sheepy ones are a hazard. and PLEASE make sure to use eye protection. Especially with the cheap ones.
 
I usually just double up the thin ones and that stops the breakage.

It's already been said, but I'll say it again -- eye protection is your friend. I got a good gash on my nose from a flying cutting wheel.
 
I've used the tube with the sandpaper that you show in your picture with much success. I feel I have better control with them and it's better to remove unwanted pieces slowly than to risk messing up your helmet.
 
the grinding stones are useless, use the drum sanders they are far better

the disks are breaking cause you are bending them, i've used hundreds of them,trust me.
 
i use a variety of things... sanding drums, cut off discs, carbide cutting bits. eventually you just get a feel for how they all handle.

i always recommend that people NOT learn to use the tool on the thing they want to tweak... practice on some junk first.

for example, i have a bunch of hard hats scattered around the basement (leftovers from needing the liners for helmets). take something like that and practice cutting with different tools.

the thin discs have their uses, but any time you go in for a less than perfectly straight cut they snap. for a bit area, i'll usually use plung cuts with the disc for the rough shape (rather than trying to follow the curve, just push the disk through, then take it out, move it, and push through again), then use the sanding drum to clean up.

also note that the speed of the tool can melt the plastic, so you may have some extra cleanup to do there.
 
Originally posted by TK9120@Feb 15 2006, 02:01 AM
I would use one of the grinding stones. Just grind the main stuff away then thake light passes to clean it up.
[snapback]1184568[/snapback]​
I go with this. I scratched around a line around to give me a definitive point where the plastic had to be grinded down to (similar to where you have drawn the red lines). I did use the metal wheel to remove some stuff, but i did it very lightl;y and let the tool do the work and did not force it. Then i moved to a grinding stone and very gently got as close to the edges as i can (it cuts through it like butter so be careful). Then when all round the socket was near to the edge i had scratched in, i filed then.
Just some advice when using the cutting wheel, wear googles, if it should shatter there would be alot of shrapnel flying. :thumbsup
I've also got a tip for ya. I don't know how others have filled in the eye slots so the new lenses fit but i used this method:
I covered the lenses that i am using in one layer of masking tape nice and tight so you can see the full shape of the lenses. i then put the lenses in from behind the mask, taped them in so they would not move then you can see all of the gaps where the socket needs to be filled. With the lenses still in place i then filled all of the gaps, let the filler dry hard, then gently removed the lenses from behind. The masking tape stops filler getting on the lenses and you are left with sockets that are filled and will be perfectly flush agaisnt the new lenses. Its just a case of gently filing then. I'll post a couple of pics tonight if you like. It just saved lots of fillin, sandind, filling again etc
 
For myself, if I am cutting/trimming the eyes in a vader helmet.........the best tool to use is the small diameter sanding drum on the dremel. It gets in pretty tight corners and still works well across the curved areas. The bigger drum works better in the less curved areas if you don't mind changing it out. The sanding drums will always leave a less gouged surface when trimming plastic, or so I've found. Then I go back with a skinny metal side cutting drill tip to get the really tight corners. Then finish it off with a mini needle file by hand.

Dave :)
 
For really fine detailing I find diamond points very useful they cut most things well and if used properly dont break often. They tend to break if you bend them too much.

Here is a good example of them from the company I buy from on Ebay

http://cgi.ebay.com/Set-of-20-Diamond-Moun...1QQcmdZViewItem

Just a note an individual one of these made by dremel can cost £6 (in Homebase, B&Q etc) on its own these fit a dremel and you get 20 pieces for about a tenner (depending on if you want to bid or buy it now).

Cheers Chris.
 
Originally posted by Darth Domain@Feb 15 2006, 04:57 AM
I did use the metal wheel to remove some stuff, but i did it very lightl;y and let the tool do the work and did not force it. Then i moved to a grinding stone and very gently got as close to the edges as i can (it cuts through it like butter so be careful). Then when all round the socket was near to the edge i had scratched in, i filed then.

Good point Mark. It is important that you let the tool do the work, dont force it. Just guide the tool where you need it to go.
 
Its not an exact science, what works for one person might not work for you. Just try different discs, grinding stones, sanding bits, etc. until you find what you like best. i personally just use the discs, tho they are a pain when your cutting and all the sudden a peice of the disc flys off and you have to duck for cover :)
 
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