Roman's Obi ANH pommel vs the rest: thoughts?
- Thread starter Filandrius
- Start date
Filandrius
Sr Member
You don't see it because he doesn't ship outside of the US. Search for it on ebay.com. "Obi-Wan Kenobi Lightsaber Pommel"
The best replica is the one I made.
I took care about all details diameters and curvatures,however I spent about 20 hours with machining and polishing.
Internal part of my pommel is really different,because of special use.
However,when screwn on the booster,it' as close as possible to original.
I don't leave room when I screw it,because I have made special drawing mentionnig why it's less or more screwn on booster,for cooling internal energy cell controller,same thing about the cap,that's why on "tunisia" cap is missing,to bring more air for cooling....haha.
Then I think about the Russrep:
measurments are quite same,except the first rim near booster,too long,4,5mm instead of 4 mm,some curvatures are wrong,and some details are missing.
negative radius instead of positive radius;a 0,3mm rim to;internal rim too;cubes radius but these details are really ennoying to reproduce,and would be really explensive to sell...
Internal is very different to original,cap is really different too.
Polish is not very good,but I think it's the best replica available for the moment,for a reasonnable price.
Imagine if Russ was obliged to spend 20 hours for a pommel,what would be the price....
Original part is cast,and cast items are really difficult to reproduce by machining...
good,it's possible to choose version,by reversing the cube section.
About Roman's I don't know,sems it's not so accurate,even it's reversible.
I don't really want to spend 80 $ for it,but if someone has good colose up pics,I 'm interested in!
Modern AS is not really nice,I think it's far better to use a russrep,even a romans than a modern AS handwhell.
I took care about all details diameters and curvatures,however I spent about 20 hours with machining and polishing.
Internal part of my pommel is really different,because of special use.
However,when screwn on the booster,it' as close as possible to original.
I don't leave room when I screw it,because I have made special drawing mentionnig why it's less or more screwn on booster,for cooling internal energy cell controller,same thing about the cap,that's why on "tunisia" cap is missing,to bring more air for cooling....haha.
Then I think about the Russrep:
measurments are quite same,except the first rim near booster,too long,4,5mm instead of 4 mm,some curvatures are wrong,and some details are missing.
negative radius instead of positive radius;a 0,3mm rim to;internal rim too;cubes radius but these details are really ennoying to reproduce,and would be really explensive to sell...
Internal is very different to original,cap is really different too.
Polish is not very good,but I think it's the best replica available for the moment,for a reasonnable price.
Imagine if Russ was obliged to spend 20 hours for a pommel,what would be the price....
Original part is cast,and cast items are really difficult to reproduce by machining...
good,it's possible to choose version,by reversing the cube section.
About Roman's I don't know,sems it's not so accurate,even it's reversible.
I don't really want to spend 80 $ for it,but if someone has good colose up pics,I 'm interested in!
Modern AS is not really nice,I think it's far better to use a russrep,even a romans than a modern AS handwhell.
mine and original:
profile comparition:
On saber:
Here are 4 pommels:
Top 2 AS,new and old
Bottom,my first made from nickel plated brass,and Russ.
The cap has bee modified on my brass version to match the correct diameter and curvature.
It's actually swimming in ammonia to give it antique patina....
And here is Russ profile:
With incorrect profil of first brass pommel test,has been modified,even not 100% accurate.
Other view of Russ's profile:
profile comparition:
On saber:
Here are 4 pommels:
Top 2 AS,new and old
Bottom,my first made from nickel plated brass,and Russ.
The cap has bee modified on my brass version to match the correct diameter and curvature.
It's actually swimming in ammonia to give it antique patina....
And here is Russ profile:
With incorrect profil of first brass pommel test,has been modified,even not 100% accurate.
Other view of Russ's profile:
about slope of "cube section"
The original AS handwheel cube section was cast in a 2 parts mold.
So the diameter is not same on top and bottom,on round and flat section.
Round is 49,5 on botton and 49,2 on top.
Flat is bout 41,5 on bottom and something like 41 on top
It's for removing after casting.
cubes are rounded,with 1mm radius,all faces.
The modern AS has a very big slope,and some faces are not rounded,so it's really not accurate.
Replicas have no slope,because it's easier to have same diameter by machining.
Most of replicas have no rounded faces,and really small machining details are not reproduced.
I would know more about booster,what are differences,and why seraphino is best replica.
In fact I would find a real one,then replicate it,and then sell it when I achieve my replica.
I can make a swap,I have the old AS handwheel,if someone has a real booster....
The original AS handwheel cube section was cast in a 2 parts mold.
So the diameter is not same on top and bottom,on round and flat section.
Round is 49,5 on botton and 49,2 on top.
Flat is bout 41,5 on bottom and something like 41 on top
It's for removing after casting.
cubes are rounded,with 1mm radius,all faces.
The modern AS has a very big slope,and some faces are not rounded,so it's really not accurate.
Replicas have no slope,because it's easier to have same diameter by machining.
Most of replicas have no rounded faces,and really small machining details are not reproduced.
I would know more about booster,what are differences,and why seraphino is best replica.
In fact I would find a real one,then replicate it,and then sell it when I achieve my replica.
I can make a swap,I have the old AS handwheel,if someone has a real booster....
Filandrius
Sr Member
I've saw that handwheel in your thread, and it's a work of art. I totally agree that it's the best replica ever made. The only flaw I can see is that you don't sell them! 
price would be quite same as original....
And only interest is the inside,that is NOT accurate,but made for a complete working saber project...
So ,if same price than original,and for a static,it's better to buy an original....if you find it!
And only interest is the inside,that is NOT accurate,but made for a complete working saber project...
So ,if same price than original,and for a static,it's better to buy an original....if you find it!
Filandrius
Sr Member
Yeah I kinda got that. With the work you've put on it, I would be ashamed to offer you any less than the value of an original.
What an interesting bit of history. Never knew so much could go into a sink knob from the seventies
So the modern AS handwheel is slightly larger, with a slightly domed end cap and round-er features. The real one is a bit smaller with sharper features.
ooh so thats why romans and russ' are so much better, they're even more accurate than a later model
So the modern AS handwheel is slightly larger, with a slightly domed end cap and round-er features. The real one is a bit smaller with sharper features.
ooh so thats why romans and russ' are so much better, they're even more accurate than a later model
NO,old one has rounded cubes too,same curvature as new one.
I took a look at roman's ones...
I think the best choice is the romans,but only if you can polish and put chrome again on it,because aluminum is far easier to polish than steel!
The best would be to obtain some rough aluminum pommels,modify radus and polish it,then a chrome layer,and then it will be very good.
If you can't,choose a Russ...
I took a look at roman's ones...
I think the best choice is the romans,but only if you can polish and put chrome again on it,because aluminum is far easier to polish than steel!
The best would be to obtain some rough aluminum pommels,modify radus and polish it,then a chrome layer,and then it will be very good.
If you can't,choose a Russ...
cayman shen
Master Member
Parfaitelumiere, that handwheel is a work of art. Amazing.
Filandrius
Sr Member
Golden info. That's exactly what I was looking for. Thanks a lot.
Ain't that the truth.
Sym-Cha
Master Member
You mean,the rim of endcap?
Not wrong,inside has bee sanded,so it looks not shiny on photo.
I would make one with "H" and Armitage shanks" written on it,but I don't know how to do...
And finally,I like it without engravings,looks more like a "real" lightsaber part,with "technical" reasons about shape,haha.
I don't know how,but I would add black parts inside,to make illusions that the hearts of the cubes are black,and antimagnetic,then make a link from thin copper wire between the black sections.
Will be visible only when totally dissasembled,so I'm not sure it would be really necessary to do it...
Not wrong,inside has bee sanded,so it looks not shiny on photo.
I would make one with "H" and Armitage shanks" written on it,but I don't know how to do...
And finally,I like it without engravings,looks more like a "real" lightsaber part,with "technical" reasons about shape,haha.
I don't know how,but I would add black parts inside,to make illusions that the hearts of the cubes are black,and antimagnetic,then make a link from thin copper wire between the black sections.
Will be visible only when totally dissasembled,so I'm not sure it would be really necessary to do it...
franz bolo
Sr Member
FYI, the Chen replicates the inside just like the real thing so it's the most accurate. The tabs on the inside of the sink knob are what grabs the booster threads just like on a real one.
parfaitelumiere, from the pics, yours looks great!
FB
parfaitelumiere, from the pics, yours looks great!
FB
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