Roman Props MK1 Weathered Project

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Jukesie

New Member
WOOT! My speaker is ok :) 1 down, 82 to go :D

Thank you Ridire, that's a great reply and gives me some food for thought.

My wiring was based off the information I've managed to gather from online, various wiring examples to be honest, as there doesn't seem to be the exact same setup that I'm trying to do, I amalgamated a few. I'll see about getting myself one of those mats and see if that helps me at all.

Thanks again.
 

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Ridire Firean

Sr Member
Hey Jukesie ! While you wait for your TCSS Nano Biscotte V4 Mat....


...to arrive, here's a little bit less obstructed, but still not totally legible preview or complete, to possibly help you figure out the basics while you wait...

LIGHTSABER - SOUND BOARD - NANO BISCOTTE V4 - WIRING DIAGRAM MAT - 001.png


... thanks to SulfurCityFoundry in New Zealand who's video I cut and pasted and skewed together to help you out a bit with the wiring diagram that should totally be in the User's Manual.

I expect you to get at least one more out of your last 82 with this little bit of help! ;)

Good Luck! And I'm looking forward to seeing what you come up with for a Crystal Chamber!
 

Jukesie

New Member
I've tidied up my previous version. I'm still a little confused as to where the Accent LED should be connected. If it should be as noted (which I believe is inline with the NB manual for an Accent LED. Or based on the Soldering Mat above and connected to the L3 at the north of the board, and the FoC channel. Not sure. Does this look better to anyone? Again, this is trying to splice together the diagrams from the ShtokCustomWorx NXPL connector and the NB v4

Lightsaber-Diagram-01.png
 

Jukesie

New Member
Thanks. I'm still a little unsure of the positioning of the Accent LED and the Resistors (as well as if I actually need the Dyna Ohm resistors)

I presume I should be able to connect all of this up with croc-clips or something to test before I solder it in place, but the last thing I want is to blow the blade strips / NB / NXPL Connector. That is, if I can even buy a NB, JQSabers aren't returning my email requests and the NB is out of stock at the moment.
 

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Jukesie

New Member
The Accent LED is a puzzler for me, should I use a Common Anode RGB to connect to the L3 pad with 3 Cathode's or is it easier/better to use a Common Cathode with separate Anode connectors? And is it correct that the L3 designates the RGB effect? i.e. it will change to match the colour of the blades?

I'm going to order the NB from TCSS because I won't be able to buy one in the UK for a few months otherwise, so hopefully I can get cracking on this soon.
 

Halliwax

Legendary Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
The Accent LED is a puzzler for me, should I use a Common Anode RGB to connect to the L3 pad with 3 Cathode's or is it easier/better to use a Common Cathode with separate Anode connectors? And is it correct that the L3 designates the RGB effect? i.e. it will change to match the colour of the blades?

I'm going to order the NB from TCSS because I won't be able to buy one in the UK for a few months otherwise, so hopefully I can get cracking on this soon.
Really interested and hearing what you go with
 

Ridire Firean

Sr Member
Hey Jukesie ! Is your "Accent LED" a single color "Power On" LED, or are you wanting it to be a 3mm/5mm RGB LED for a Crystal Chamber that mirrors the Blade?

The reason I ask, and there may or may not be a work-around for it, is that the Owner's Manual states in the features list "No Accent LED". But you can have a single color "Power On" LED.
 

canister

Well-Known Member
If you have not brought one? You could look into getting a spark board from Naigon, hes been pretty helpful in the past with his products. Also the new-ish teensysaber/Profieboards, they seem to be all the rage at the moment. I've not wired a sound board in 2 years and have not kept up with the latest so can't help with the v4 and the new led strips. I will be following to see how you get on and might even finish a hilt one day.
 

Jukesie

New Member
Hi canister thanks, I have looked at the profieboards but I settled on NB quite a while ago, and I actually bought one last night from TCSS (I couldn't wait months) the shipping was less than I expected. So, I'm just waiting for my NB to arrive now. But thank you for the suggestion, I plan on stopping on 1 saber, so I will definitely look at your suggestions for my future projects.

*edit* I'm sticking to NB anyway, because I had already bought the NB-MK chassis from ShtokCustomWorx too. :)

Ridire Firean forgive the terminology, I'm still learning the exact terms, but yes, it was supposed to be a changeable Crystal LED. My most recent schematic doesn't reflect my recent discovery. I hadn't spotted the section in the NB manual on "Adding a Pixel accent LED(s) to your saber" Which talks about using extra blade pixels as accents?? If I did understand it correctly, using a normal Common Cathode LED in their place would work the same??

My biggest concern is that I'm using ShtokCustomWorx NXPL connector, which has the ledstrip connectors and 5 LED's wired together for the blade, I was going to set it to run in Parallel so they all light together. I figured, as long as I wired the Accent (CC) LED with a separate resistor, and a separate one on the blade data line, then this would work correct??

I'll follow up my crazy ramblings above with a new schematic this weekend.
 
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Ridire Firean

Sr Member
Hey Jukesie ! O.K. I see it now, I was reading that section more as a "Trident Blade" setup rather than a Crystal Chamber Accent setup because of the two extra NeoPixels in the diagram.

As erv notes in the manual, if your Multicolor LED is setup as RGB, but your NeoPixel (Blade Strip) is setup as GRB, you'd only ever get the B(lue) to match. Any solid color R(ed) Blade would give you a G(reen) Crystal with a RGB 3mm/5mm Multicolor LED. Any solid color G(reen) Blade would give you a R(ed) Crystal with a RGB 3mm/5mm Multicolor LED. And Unless your R(ed) and G(reen) parameters were exactly even, you'd never get the color you were hoping to achieve through color mixing. Whatever color those exactly even parameters are, would be the only color you could ever achieve as a match between your Blade and your Crystal, except B(lue) of course.

So, if you can't find a GRB 3mm/5mm LED, you might want to try and adapt a single NeoPixel to your design in order to illuminate your Crystal.

I know what you mean about the terminology! I wish that everyone would agree to call blades made with indiviually soldered 3mm/5mm LEDs "LED Strings", and that the new type of blades with flat multicolor "LEDs" were only ever referred to as "NeoPixel Strips". Leave the LED part out of the latter altogether and go by the brand name to help prevent any confusion between the two. It's probably too late to have everyone adopt "NeoPixel Bands", but that would even further distinguish the two different types of blades. Strings and Strips can get confusing too.

How many people ever ask for a "facial tissue"? None, they always ask for a "Kleenex". The same standard should be set for NeoPixels.

As for the separate resistor, you wouldn't need it if you ran it in parallel as shown in the manual.

Good Luck! Maybe by the time your parts arrive someone will actually post up a complete wiring diagram!
 

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