Roman Props MK1 Weathered Project

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Jukesie

New Member
Anyone know a trick on how to unscrew the blade plug? I deliberately didn't tighten it the other day to avoid it getting stuck, and now... it's stuck.
 

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Jukesie

New Member
No, it's the FX version, I unscrewed the blade plug a few days ago to have a closer look and it would seem I've screwed it on too tight, now it won't budge
 

Jukesie

New Member
I'm still learning the lingo :)

It's the heatsink in my third picture that screws into the neck, holding the balance pipe in place.
 

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Zombie Killer

Sr Member
OK i see what going on now. Can you just grip the balance pipe and unscrew/turn it to help the center part turn? Not sure what you've tried so far. Other options are stick it in the freezer and try and if not put in the oven at 150 degrees then try.....with gloves.
 

Jukesie

New Member
I've put it in the freezer, I'm really not having good luck. I used an Alan key to unscrew the plug retention screw, and now that's stuck in the screw too............. Hopefully freezing it will have the desired affect. Heated metal normally expands, so I'm not sure about that one, but cooling does strike me as a safer test to try.
 

Serenity

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
For clarity, are you trying to take the balance pipe off of the blade adapter (with the adapter still on the grenade), or are you trying to take the adapter off of the grenade?
 

Jukesie

New Member
Ok, to clear it up, the balance pipe comes off, see here;
20190118_215908.jpg

However, the heat sink (yes I'm learning the pieces slowly) here, is stuck in position;
20190118_215943.jpg
20190118_215936.jpg

Hope that illustrates it a little better
 

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Jukesie

New Member
I know it unscrews. If you read further up you'll see I unscrewed it then screwed it back, I didn't think I'd screwed it too tight but now it's stuck.
 

jddurst

Active Member
Jukesie, I seem to be in the exact same boat you're in at this point.

I acquired the same Mk1 FX weathered hilt from Roman this holiday season (Impeccable quality, as everyone has asserted, I couldn't be happier)

Since this is my first saber build, I'm taking it slow and have started by modeling cylinders in Tinker Cad and 3D printing them to confirm the interior dimensions of what I have to work with.

I have purchased online a Bladebuilders Obi Wan saber for $10, even though I think it is discontinued, so I can have something to play with. (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SD8GUK0/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

After cutting it open I have found a speaker, 6mm led, and a 1"x1" PCB. My intent is to first figure out how to get the PCB to accept a Tri-cre and a 18650 battery. Once that is done, I'll mock-up a chassis to hold what I have and install it. (leaving the crystal chamber open). Then I'll get serious with the final electronics, and allow the design of the chamber to define itself from the constraints I have to work with. (I did pick up both an aquamarine and amethyst crystals of what I think is the appropriate size to stand in for the kyber) My current thinking is to rig something that can allow the 'transistors' to work as the switches without enlarging the holes in the vintage clamp I intend on using. I have some ideas about how to do this, and am happy to share progress and/or my thoughts, but this is your thread and I don't want to hijack it.

What I have found is that FX-Sabers.com - Forum is the place to get many of the questions I have about electronics answered, this forum is best for weathering techniques and screen accuracy.

Congrats on your project, and I will be watching this thread. Perhaps also sharing some of my own experiences.
 

Jukesie

New Member
@jddhurst Congrats on your acquisition. Yes, it really is some work!

I am still undecided as to whether I will be building my own chassis, or crystal chamber, or going with Shtokworks & Rudy Pando's items. One of the biggest draws on this project for me was (my love of star wars aside) was the electronics. So, using premade, and adjusted, parts for the interior takes a lot of pressure off in regards to the build. Although, I'm not 100% on that choice yet.

I'm not planning on a tri-cre, I was edging towards the Neopixel version. However, if I can make interchangeable plugs, then maybe it'll be an idea. But as of now, I'm Neopixel all the way.

I won't be starting mine for a month or so yet though, I'm in the research stage, but I have a load of exams IRL to deal with first off. Works is never done ;)

Good luck with your build and I'll definitely update everyone as/when it develops.
 

Jukesie

New Member
So, just about to start purchasing a few pieces for my build, and I've come up with a couple of questions.

I understand, unless I'm incorrect, that I will require the heatsink from BespinCustomProps to enable me to build a NeoPixel blade.

Leading on from that, I will need the blade adapter, but I wanted to ask if anyone has bought/tried the below;

MK1 (KR Blade) Neopixel Adapter by wolf69 on Shapeways

JQ Sabers | Jedi Quartermaster » 1″ NeoPixel Hilt Side Adaptor V2

Of course, there is a substantial price difference, this is why I'm asking the question.

Additionally, I appreciate that I don't need a coloured (yes I'm British I spell with the 'u') blade, running the NeoPixel and all, but is there any difference in a clear or white blade?

1" Thin walled Trans White PolyC 40" long

1" Thin Walled Enhanced Blue™ PolyC 40" long

I presume the white blade with the foam diffuser aids to diffuse the colour even more?

One last question that's come to mind, would you need the 7-pin or 11-pin connector? I was going to get the 7-pin as I think that's the one I'd need.

If anyone has experience of any part of these it would be appreciated.
 

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Jukesie

New Member
Good Morning,

I posted this question in TRA but so far I've had 50 views and no responses or questions, so I thought, "What the Hell!" I'll ask you lovely people.

Please remember - this is my first build - I know little to nothing about electronics (at least, I'm not trying to arrogant believe I do), so I'm learning from the ground up (it's been a year or two since I went to class) so please bear with me.

I've been trawling through the forums, and across the web, in search of a wiring diagram for the following;

Neopixel strip blade (2 strips)
Nano Biscotte v4.0 sound board
ShtokCustomWorx chassis (activation switches, RICE port and charger)
NPXL Connector (also by ShtokCustomWorx)

I've done the best I can, for now, and I was hoping that someone could take a look at my current diagram and see if I'm heading in the right direction at all. (probably not)

Oh and I forgot to mark it, but that Grey box to the left is the charger port.

Lightsaber-Diagram.jpg


I appreciate that I will have missed things and it's probably hopelessly naive, but hopefully it's not a total loss.

Thanks

Read more: NB v4, NPXL Connector & SCW MK1 | The Rebel Armory
 

Jukesie

New Member
Does anyone know where I can ask wiring questions? I don't seem to be getting any response from any of the forums.
 

Joek3rr

Sr Member
Does anyone know where I can ask wiring questions? I don't seem to be getting any response from any of the forums.
I wish I could help you. But I've only done one lightsaber and it wasn't neo-pixel. Sorry.

Your best bet would be The Custom Saber Shop forums, or maybe FX-sabers. Also make sure you check out TCSS YouTube with their tutorials. And then if you do a Goth-3d chassis, his got some instructions that could help.
 

Jukesie

New Member
I've already posted on FX and still no luck. I'll check youtube in case I missed something. Thanks.
 

Ridire Firean

Sr Member
Hey Jukesie ! On Page 30 of the Nano Biscotte v4.0 Manual it shows the J3 Pad to Data Pin on the NeoPixel LED Strip having a 470ohm Resistor, I don't see such a resistor on your wiring diagram.

Who's wiring diagram/ build are you referencing while designing/building yours?

You'll have to know the Voltage and Amps of the NeoPixel Strips to calculate your resistors.

Is that "CC LED" your Power Indicator light? Page 15 shows it wired more towards the center of the NB4 on the positive end.

That being said, I can't provide much further help. The NB4 Manual is not helpful. I don't understand why it's not more complete. The schematic is on the frelling mat, but not in the manual. What The Force?!

nbv4mat.jpg


This guy's pic covers up the important parts...
maxresdefault.jpg


It's kinda naughty, but it made me laugh with the irony of it... while Googling around for alternate images of this mat I saw that there's an album cover by Jack McDuff called Sophisticated Funk (sorta NSFW if you Google it or aren't 18+), but it mirrors the thought that you can see the soundboard, but you're not given the code to make it work.

The good news I can provide you is that your Speaker is 100% wired correctly! ;)

Good Luck on your build!
 

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