Revell Star Destroyer 1/2700

Haui

Well-Known Member
Here my Build of the Revell Star Destroyer.
The Main-Body
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Then i Buildt up the Brigde.
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The Engine-Section with lights and some extra Parts.

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The Hangar with lights

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Fantabulous!

I Like the side hangar bays in the trench notches. I opted to mimic the ILM 8 footer which has it closed up.

I have yet to detail the starboard side trenches.
 
Totally agree . You’ve added all those extra details yourself - no 3D printed components so far right ? Fantastic work .

Thanks for sharing , and hope you’ll keep updating .

:cheersGed

No 3D Print :)
First i thought about buying some parts but then i decided to do everything by myself from scatch.
At the Moment i'm working at the gun turrets because i want them a litte bigger :)
 
The Nest Steps

first i thought i will buy nuw gunturrets but then i decided to make everything by myselfe

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The stand is not fixed to the ship so i can change it later.


I made tie-fighters for the Hangars


Hight:3.3mm
Length: 2.6mm
width 2.3mm




Now i stadted wil the fiberoptics, i use 0,25mm FO
 
Yes. That will indeed be in my near future. I already have about 500 holes drilled on just the port side trenches. I have not yet finished greebling up the rear Starboard trench section yet. I have 500 Yards of .25mm FO and 100 Yds of .5MM FO. Hope I have enough.
 
Nice work.

After wanting a good star destroyer model for most of my life, i am so tempted to buy one of these kits. The problem is i don't want to spend anywhere near as much time building it as i used to with other models.
The question is, would it be a crime to build this kit straight out of the box and paint it without any upgrading or lights? But if the answer is yes, then i just won't build one at all.
 
The question is, would it be a crime to build this kit straight out of the box and paint it without any upgrading or lights?

You can absolutely build it without upgrades or lights. If you like Star Destroyers, this one is the best styrene kit commercially released. If you just want to build and paint it right out of the box, it shouldn't take you more than a weekend to build and paint. Dry-Fitting this kit showcases a good tight fit. Not as spectacularly engineered as a Bandai kit - but for a traditional glue plastic kit - this one and the details are very impressive. It puts the old MPC kit to absolute shame.

Get yourself one. You will not regret it.
 
I only use 0,25 FO i think the 0.5 is to big for this model


I agree. That's why I won't even bloom the ends of mine, although I've had a fair amount slip out even after securing with Tulip. I guess I may have to switch to Elmer's as it seems like that is what many of you guys are using.

Gotta say I'm envious of how you guys keep you FO strands so neatly collected. I going off small (6") spools and the fibers have a very tight curl once I cut off a strand. Trying to corral 30 strands into a neat bunch is frustrating as hell. That's where I get most of the slip thru too.

Right now I'm going with 30 cm length for just about every section. I know I'll be wasting a fair amount, but since I don't know what exactly I'll need for any given section, I want as much flexibility as possible in being able to join various bunches together to utilize less LEDs. Right now I'm figuring six LEDs for all the FO, with the engines and bay lights on a separate circuit.
 
I use Ponal wood-Glue. it takes a while until it is hard but is works very well and did not damage the FO.
To collect the FO i use a drinking straw. You can have it in different diameters. i glued a short piece of it in the ship and collect the fo in this piece after putting the fo through the hole
 
"As Seen on TV" Lasebond is what I use. instant dry, holds well and you can peel it back with your xacto if you need to re-do
I agree. That's why I won't even bloom the ends of mine, although I've had a fair amount slip out even after securing with Tulip. I guess I may have to switch to Elmer's as it seems like that is what many of you guys are using.

Gotta say I'm envious of how you guys keep you FO strands so neatly collected. I going off small (6") spools and the fibers have a very tight curl once I cut off a strand. Trying to corral 30 strands into a neat bunch is frustrating as hell. That's where I get most of the slip thru too.

Right now I'm going with 30 cm length for just about every section. I know I'll be wasting a fair amount, but since I don't know what exactly I'll need for any given section, I want as much flexibility as possible in being able to join various bunches together to utilize less LEDs. Right now I'm figuring six LEDs for all the FO, with the engines and bay lights on a separate circuit.
 

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