Analyzer
Master Member
I agree with swmodelfan1977 From what I remember, a studio scale stop motion AT-AT is fairly close to 1/48 scale. Of course, I believe they did use some 1/35 scale kits for greeblies and parts like the side guns etc..
Revell At-At WIP... finishing up!
- Thread starter starks
- Start date
I agree with swmodelfan1977 From what I remember, a studio scale stop motion AT-AT is fairly close to 1/48 scale. Of course, I believe they did use some 1/35 scale kits for greeblies and parts like the side guns etc..
starks
Sr Member
And they atleast built a larger foot and leg for the crushing the speeder scene. Makes sense why the speeders size is not consistant.
Cheers,
Josh
swmodelfan1977
New Member
Hagoth,
As mentioned in our PM conversation to you, Scale of filmed stop-mo model (say Studio Scale model) is depending on what you are going to refer.
If assuming 1:144 Bandai model as reference scale, filmed model would be around 1:49 to 1:50 when we comparing greebles. As you might know Bandai did research (with big efforts and assist by geeks) of original donor kits for every their product and reproduced digitally for their product design. The ratio (1:49 to 1:50) was led and average from comparison between Bandai AT-AT and original part size of Harrier Engine (1/24 scale), SdKfz 223(1/35 scale) as well as Flak38(1/35 scale) but not every kit bashed greebles.
On the other hand, it would be around1:32 if referring to elevation plan which I assume it was used to build leg/foot model to crash snowspeeder. However scene in final movie(ESB) wasn't such in scale (Foot was small, otherwise Luke would be 8 feet height).
As starks mentioned, there is no consistency.
Another way is referring to setting (databank) from starwars.com. It is said as 22.5m height. However I don't know actual height of filmed model.
Therefore again scale is depending on what you refer to. Or just say, Studio-Scale as vague scale.
The scale is not related scale of kitbashed donor kits as they are variety of scale from 1/12, 1/20, 1/24, 1/35, 1/700, HO and so on.
Noboru
I have lived in Sydney for 5 years from 2001 to 2006, by the way.
As mentioned in our PM conversation to you, Scale of filmed stop-mo model (say Studio Scale model) is depending on what you are going to refer.
If assuming 1:144 Bandai model as reference scale, filmed model would be around 1:49 to 1:50 when we comparing greebles. As you might know Bandai did research (with big efforts and assist by geeks) of original donor kits for every their product and reproduced digitally for their product design. The ratio (1:49 to 1:50) was led and average from comparison between Bandai AT-AT and original part size of Harrier Engine (1/24 scale), SdKfz 223(1/35 scale) as well as Flak38(1/35 scale) but not every kit bashed greebles.
On the other hand, it would be around1:32 if referring to elevation plan which I assume it was used to build leg/foot model to crash snowspeeder. However scene in final movie(ESB) wasn't such in scale (Foot was small, otherwise Luke would be 8 feet height).
As starks mentioned, there is no consistency.
Another way is referring to setting (databank) from starwars.com. It is said as 22.5m height. However I don't know actual height of filmed model.
Therefore again scale is depending on what you refer to. Or just say, Studio-Scale as vague scale.
The scale is not related scale of kitbashed donor kits as they are variety of scale from 1/12, 1/20, 1/24, 1/35, 1/700, HO and so on.
Noboru
I have lived in Sydney for 5 years from 2001 to 2006, by the way.
Hagoth
Sr Member
Well, posting a picture of my Spitfire MKII might cause a heart attack. I built it when I was 11-12, painted it by hand with a brush, and it has seen many hard days over the 40+ years since then. Needs a lot of TLC restoration. Working flaps, spinning prop retractable landing gear with rubber wheels, removable panels around the engine and on the wings for the guns and amo boxes. Sliding canopy and two position pilot door with a pilot. I think it was a Revell kit but I'm not completely sure. I do like the scale (I guess it is really 1:32 not 1:35) for the detail but man, it takes up a lot of room. But I keep it. There is a bit of nostalgia here. Have a Stuka in the same scale and my brother had a BF-109E which has long since became scrap. Very cool airplanes.
You are lucky to be around and see flying ones. P51's are another favorite of mine.
swmodelfan1977
New Member
Another aspect IMHO.
If you leave Revell scale or Studio Scale, you need to reproduce greebles by yourself but depending on how much accurate you want.
In case of Studio Scale, more than 30-40 kits are used as far as I know (forgot to mention 1/25 and 1/144 scale in my previous post).
And some of them are not available in retail market then need to dig ebay. It is cost too much. (i_i)
Regards,
Noboru
If you leave Revell scale or Studio Scale, you need to reproduce greebles by yourself but depending on how much accurate you want.
In case of Studio Scale, more than 30-40 kits are used as far as I know (forgot to mention 1/25 and 1/144 scale in my previous post).
And some of them are not available in retail market then need to dig ebay. It is cost too much. (i_i)
Regards,
Noboru
division 6
Master Member
You could use this to scale it out.
Mark is 5' 8".
Add another 3" or so for the helmet.
Mark is 5' 8".
Add another 3" or so for the helmet.
Hagoth
Sr Member
Yeah, that's what I was trying to make sense of. Completely agree, there is no consistency. So, in the end a 25" tall AT-AT it will be. Scale?
Meh. Close enough!
swmodelfan1977
New Member
It is up to you.
Hagoth
Sr Member
In that picture above it comes out to about 90 feet tall. Assuming Luke is scaled properly to the shot. If you correct the height for some perspective shortening it will get a little taller than that so maybe 100 feet tall is not too far off.
I'm not mentioning the term "Studio Scale" in my AT-AT project since it seems that will cause a lot of confusion.
I'm not mentioning the term "Studio Scale" in my AT-AT project since it seems that will cause a lot of confusion.
Hagoth
Sr Member
I've been searching the forums and finding precious little. Lots of missing pictures and broken links though. Might be some sources off site. Still looking. I'm not on FB so I'm limited in what I can find there. Also, most examples I do find are not fully articulated in all the detail areas. "I think that AT-AT has a bad motivator"
A list of all the parts and kits used would be cool to have. Not that I plan to get all the kits for detailing my own but it would be nice to know for 3D modeling and detail references.
starks
Sr Member
Hi guys,
These legs have turned into a much bigger mission than I expected! But first, the chin guns arrived and they are awesome.
So I got the legs ground out in the centers, and cut notches for the leg limiter on the rear side. Also cut the body end out of the Revell hips.
Laser up some pieces
Joined the new hips to the Revell body end clip
I fitted the cams to the legs, drilled and fitted pins in the back side for the leg limiters, Im not too happy with this area as the recess for the limiter is a bit too big but it will be fine for this banger of a build. Interestingly the slotted trims on the front and rear of the leg surfaces are there, but did not have the slots. So I scribed in some slots. still needs some cleaning up but starting to take shape now. I also sanded off the Revell squared armoured plate on the inside and added new ones in a more correct shape.
Also on the topic of studio size, and 24 inches is cool with me, the measurements of the resin model... hard to see the numbers but I count 20 increments so looks to be around 19- 20 inches tall.
There seems to be some discrepancies with this model so I am not sure if it is a cast off the hero models or a separate build that was cast. Just to help throw another spanner in there....
cheers,
Josh
These legs have turned into a much bigger mission than I expected! But first, the chin guns arrived and they are awesome.
So I got the legs ground out in the centers, and cut notches for the leg limiter on the rear side. Also cut the body end out of the Revell hips.
Laser up some pieces
Joined the new hips to the Revell body end clip
I fitted the cams to the legs, drilled and fitted pins in the back side for the leg limiters, Im not too happy with this area as the recess for the limiter is a bit too big but it will be fine for this banger of a build. Interestingly the slotted trims on the front and rear of the leg surfaces are there, but did not have the slots. So I scribed in some slots. still needs some cleaning up but starting to take shape now. I also sanded off the Revell squared armoured plate on the inside and added new ones in a more correct shape.
Also on the topic of studio size, and 24 inches is cool with me, the measurements of the resin model... hard to see the numbers but I count 20 increments so looks to be around 19- 20 inches tall.
There seems to be some discrepancies with this model so I am not sure if it is a cast off the hero models or a separate build that was cast. Just to help throw another spanner in there....
cheers,
Josh
Hagoth
Sr Member
Wow Josh, those upgrades came out nice! Really liking what you can do with your laser cutter.
Love how those cannons look. I've been thinking about an idea to make them movable with a spring recoil return from a ball point pen. Motorized animation thoughts have been rattling around in my brain again.
Love how those cannons look. I've been thinking about an idea to make them movable with a spring recoil return from a ball point pen. Motorized animation thoughts have been rattling around in my brain again.
starks
Sr Member
Ahh I didn't do anything with that part. They were my plan B.
That arch and the rectangular piece next to it I was going to cut a section out of the leg and put those pieces in the leg for the pivot mount for the leg limiter. But succeeded well enough in notching the back of the leg. Be aware its hollow in the legs and I had to use some filler inside the inner part of the outer leg... under the notch in the inner leg ( if you can follow that) to allow a base for the limiter and drill to put the pin in.
The leg limiter I dont believe is held by a pin. Im sure its a screw. The outer legs on the studio model have a cover screwed over the top hiding the mechanisms and I sure theres a screw through the leg frame into the limiter lower pivot. It's the only way you would properly secure it.
Nice idea on the cannons. I notice the 'slide' provision on the underside of the head behind the cannons. It constantly amazes me the thought and detail in these walkers.
Cheers,
Josh
starks
Sr Member
Thanks Chaim for keeping the inspiration going!
It's been a big couple of days here, my younger sons birthday, fixing my broken down car and taking time off to run the bride around to Dr's visits but still managed some work.
I really did not expect to do too much to the legs at first. That surely was not the case. I finally got the upper legs assembled and operating, using screws and bits and pieces on hand. The pin to drive the tab on the hip to leg cams are cut down rivets for example. Be aware the leg extension pivot point is crucial to full articulation. My cam and pin operates perfectly but once the limiter was attached it fowled on the leg when moved into the knee up position... it was only just short of full extension and not concerning for this build but I would like others to be aware of it.
I got onto the lower legs and these were a bit plane Jane also. There's a hole in the backside of the knee and all the inney details were outey details. Also no screws.
I love this screenshot and it shows the legs both sides:
First the knees. the locking tabs don't penetrate the entire way through the knee, and theres plenty of clearance between the end of the knee locking tab and the back of the leg so I roughly cut some 0.5mm plasticard circles and glued them just flush with the rear of the leg. This was then filled over. this completes the plate up the inside of the lower leg.
I scribed the panel lines on the front and rear edges. There are recessed holes for screws that were just raised details. there is enough meat on the plastic to shave off the raised details and GENTLY counter sink some inney holes. Next was the raised screws. I had nothing on hand that looked the part screw wise. I got some styrene tube, rounded up the tops with sandpaper and glued them into place. It gives the effect of the screws and makes the legs look so much better, they're really lacking detail without those raised screws on the inside... and one placed on the outer knee locking tab.
Please forgive my poor photo's.
Outside
Inside
I'm thinking the legs have come along reasonably well.
Cheers,
Josh
It's been a big couple of days here, my younger sons birthday, fixing my broken down car and taking time off to run the bride around to Dr's visits but still managed some work.
I really did not expect to do too much to the legs at first. That surely was not the case. I finally got the upper legs assembled and operating, using screws and bits and pieces on hand. The pin to drive the tab on the hip to leg cams are cut down rivets for example. Be aware the leg extension pivot point is crucial to full articulation. My cam and pin operates perfectly but once the limiter was attached it fowled on the leg when moved into the knee up position... it was only just short of full extension and not concerning for this build but I would like others to be aware of it.
I got onto the lower legs and these were a bit plane Jane also. There's a hole in the backside of the knee and all the inney details were outey details. Also no screws.
I love this screenshot and it shows the legs both sides:
First the knees. the locking tabs don't penetrate the entire way through the knee, and theres plenty of clearance between the end of the knee locking tab and the back of the leg so I roughly cut some 0.5mm plasticard circles and glued them just flush with the rear of the leg. This was then filled over. this completes the plate up the inside of the lower leg.
I scribed the panel lines on the front and rear edges. There are recessed holes for screws that were just raised details. there is enough meat on the plastic to shave off the raised details and GENTLY counter sink some inney holes. Next was the raised screws. I had nothing on hand that looked the part screw wise. I got some styrene tube, rounded up the tops with sandpaper and glued them into place. It gives the effect of the screws and makes the legs look so much better, they're really lacking detail without those raised screws on the inside... and one placed on the outer knee locking tab.
Please forgive my poor photo's.
Outside
Inside
I'm thinking the legs have come along reasonably well.
Cheers,
Josh
