Retro comic version Iron Man build launch with Q's!

Marthony

Well-Known Member
Hello,

I seek to make classic comic red & gold Iron Man of '68-'85 (the longest-running version) for Halloween. While I've been whittling away on details for this project for a couple months, this Monday I'll have a torso mold made (head cast coming as well) and physical work will begin. I'm working from comic book references only, and scaling everything to fit my body. I've a plan but also questions to check parts of it please.

My biggest design challenge at this point is the approach to the torso & its abs section, and how I plan to transition into the codpiece 'wrap':
- 1. I am tempted to create an airspace between my body and the torso of 3/8" (same as the EVA foam I'll be using) for ventilation. The method will be to create a foam layer on my torso dummy to represent this space, and then pattern the actual costume torso on top of that. Once created, I'd add lengths of open-cell foam (or other? Please suggest) on the inside of the torso to keep it roughly 3/8" from my bodysuit (layer on dummy not used beyond this use). I am aware different types of open-cell foam will compress and testing is needed; foam will likely need to be 1/2" or greater to effect a 3/8" spacing.
- Q - Has anyone tried this? Does it sound like a practical method for better ventilation or more trouble than its worth? I won't have enough space for a computer fan.

- 2. Regardless of above airspace vs. trimmed under-layer of EVA under the actual torso, I plan to have the actual torso built out from my body slightly for sake of the abs. The abs are slightly behind the ribcage (while mine are slightly in front to be honest), so I want the torso to taper in for the abs section. Abs section foam is to use 1/4" EVA vs. 3/8" EVA to assist spacing and for more flexibility while worn. My thought here is that a torso piece that goes all the way to the codpiece will be fairly inflexible and restrict movement. My avatar's Iron Giant torso has a gap between the torso & codpiece and was agile.
- Q - Should I accept the torso's limits on flexibility, or arrange the abs section to be a separate section that floats and can glide under the torso? This would mean angle-cutting on the back and might still be visibly separate.

- 3. I plan to do Iron Man's codpiece the same way I did Iron Giant's: The front, rear, and side pods would effectively be on a horizontal belt secured together with Velcro (possibly tethered to parts of abs to keep in position), with elastic between the bottoms of the front & rear codpiece. This approach is to make it simple to use a urinal, and I also wouldn't want the mobility loss if front & rear were attached to the abs section. Bottom of abs section would be angle-cut at bottom, and codpiece belt may overlap by 1" to cover golden-metallic bodysuit.
- Q - Can you think of a better way to connect/transition the codpiece to the abs, as I want them separate?

- 4. Transition from torso to helmet: I do have some metallic red bodysuit material that I could make a dickie with, and then figure out how to add the black lines. Alternative would be to use thin EVA to make a wrap around my neck, but some skin would likely show. Bodypainting my neck could work too, and not restrict movement or ventilation.
Q - How would you approach this section?

- 5. Helmet. Range of view looks rough! I can angle-cut the mouth to have a chance of looking down through it, but it looks like I'd need the eye openings as close as possible for better field of view. Bottom below chin would remain open. FYI eye slits would be uncovered - no need to cover for this version. (almost unrelated - outer circle of ear covers will be cut away and replaced with mesh (painted) for ventilation & hearing.)
Q - How might I get the best field of vision for this version?

- 6. Gauntlets. Plan is to paint-test leather, with the idea to wear painted leather gloves that connect to the EVA forearms. Black lines would be hand-painted on the gloves, and on the EVA I'd score & heat to create the notches and hand-paint those black as well.
Q - Should I be looking at other glove materials other than leather to best get a reasonable paint match and cover the transition from glove to forearm?

- 7. Top of torso ring. As I doubt I'd be able to fit my head through there as-is, considering a length that would be added to the torso after putting it on, connecting to the torso at its edges and to itself at the back. Velcro or magnets (haven't used magnets before) would be method to connect.
Q - How have you approached tight neck hole characters? Am I on the right track?

- 8. I'm aware that the shoulder rings/pauldrons will have to be open at the bottom for fair range of movement.

- 9. I've bought a metallic gold spray paint that matches my body suit fairly well, for the front of the helmet & chest uni-beam. I'm still sourcing out metallic red spray paint. Depending on how I approach the neck, I might seek a color close to the metallic red fabric I already have.

Sorry for so many questions, but with 3 months to get this right, now is the time! =)

Thanks for any suggestions!
 

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None yet to share, though yesterday I had this handsome duct tape 'dress form' made on/for me that will be a critical tool moving forward.
 

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#4 If you use the stretch metallic fabric, you could sew bungee cord elastic into the fabric to make ridges. (Make sure it not to tight.) Make it like rows of piping. You can always put a zipper in the back for ease of putting it on. It will give you the ridge effect you are looking for.
 
Montysaurus I'm not clear on what section of the costume you are referring to, that I would seek to use piping? The stretchy metallic body suit is only visible on my arms & legs; all other parts will be EVA foam.
 
Montysaurus I'm not clear on what section of the costume you are referring to, that I would seek to use piping? The stretchy metallic body suit is only visible on my arms & legs; all other parts will be EVA foam.
I talking was talking about the neck. Between the helmet and the suit.
 
Progress photos!

I finally yielded to suggestions to use JFCustoms/EyeOfSauron's Classic Iron Man's pepakura file for the helmet vs. the manual approach I'd in mind. Glad I did - likely saved me two weeks of time! This is my first try at pep and will be used for final product! I reduced texture, joined smaller seams & reworked the top before increasing size by 10% to fit my noggin. Took me 4 hours to glue this 1/4" EVA together methodically..! Won't be using any other pep. file parts however, as that design doesn't match the version I'm working towards.

2nd version of stomach wrap & upper torso just passed my approval as well. I've yet to do the 4-pack abs on the V2 wrap as did on V1 (shown with masking tape on form pic); V1 torso needed more space in front & below of the arms, the angle cut to reverse when below the arms, and for the bottom to be patterned onto a flare-out to move easily over the stomach wrap. The wrap needed the top to curl in over my abs, and for the 'spine' to be angle cut same as the upper torso.

Of course there's some tedious work to install the shoulder rings/pauldrons & neck ring, chest unibeam & charging nodes, but I'll come back to these later. I'm using a problem solving triage approach, so onto the next major design hurdle - codpiece! It will overlap the stomach wrap by as much as 1/2" and be held in place by Velcro or elastic tethers.

And of course, 7 more weeks of extra bicep exercises to make it all look natural. =)
 

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Thanks x197. I only spent a few hours watching tutorials & getting to know Pepakura Designer 4.16 before editing the paper/cardstock file to use with 1/4" foam. I didn't use the relief cut in the forehead though it does mean minor sanding to correct. Very happy with the result for a 1st try, thought I'd need 2-3 to get it right! Will return to it in October for finishing work.
 

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Never messed with any Pep' stuff before myself.. so I can respect it.. (always seemed like a very involved process!) LOL

Still captured that 80's look IMHO!
 
XeroxTheCreator, your waiting shall cease just before Halloween. =)

I've side-stepped to the shoulder rings/pauldrons; tonight I shall continue.

Curious how others pattern/template tough areas during a make-it-fit process? I taped together 2 pieces of clear transparency plastic, taped it onto the torso, and traced very accurately. Also makes for a very simple 2-sided template! I tried simply placing the torso opening-down onto cardstock, but that simply didn’t work with the shape blocking my marker & the foam being flexible.

I need to detail where/to what degree the angle cuts are for the 3-piece pauldrons to sit properly – likely varying angle cuts on the outside pieces, and the middle piece being ‘short’ and only contacting the torso at the ends. Will use my template to make 3 u-shapes of each side, using 3/8" thick EVA. Iron Man’s pauldrons come in two versions; equal height from the body all the way around, and highest at the top tapering down front & back; I’m using the latter as in Iron Man 150 (I.M. & Dr. Doom time travel to Camelot). First try will have height at 1” at top, ¾” in center-front & back, and ½” at ‘bottom’ – they will cease at the forward foam seam and similar spot behind so I’ve full range of arm movement.

Will see how these go, and if 1" is a good max height or if 1.5" would be better.
 

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Made progress with how I'll do the black lines on the forearms, lower legs & shoe covers!


I prepared two pieces of ¼ EVA, each with half-thickness scores/cut lines spaced ¼”, ½” & ¾” apart. One was heat-sealed & shaped, and the other was heat-sealed plus attention to the scored lines including flexing out the lines to apply heat directly for greater opening effect, then shaped. Both parts were twice primed with white primer. Last night I gave both pieces 3 light coats of paint.

Things learned:

- Due to the foam being almost black, black permanent marker is not required! Instead I need to apply the primer more lightly to avoid getting it into the grooves.

- I need to tint my primer for the layout marks of permanent marker to be fully covered by this type of paint, Dupli-Color Metallic Red.

- As-is this paint cracks a bit when flexed.

Next step: apply 3 coats of Pledge floor wax. For my Iron Giant I sprayed it on until dripping so that all surfaces were covered, and blew off the excess with an air hose. This left a few streaks however, so this time I’ll wipe off excess with a sponge damp with the wax. This will be followed by another bending test to see if the paint still cracks when flexed. (I thought I’d read that this paint was better, may have erred)

While these parallel lines cut on flat foam look nice, in practice I won’t be able to score the pieces flat; they will be fully adhered & shaped before scoring. I plan to use my foam ruler plus a spring-clamp on it to approximate parallel lines.

On the gloves, I plan to use a leather paint/dye on the palms & between the fingers as those areas will get battered. Hoping the tops don't do too badly with primer & spray paint, but for Halloween I'll accept my fate. =) I'll run with permanent marker there. I'd rather see how the matching paint job on the gloves holds up vs. a color difference between sleeve & glove.

Now if I can just prototype the lower legs and codpiece before October, I should be in good shape for Halloween!
 

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As to the shoulder rings on the torso, I realized it is impossible for me to make 90 cuts for the outer ring surfaces to look good upon adhering; I'm always off 5-10 degrees and change a bit along the cut line - a lot of clean-up! I've ordered & received a cutting blade grip with a 90 designed base on it, so will return to this.
 
Well if you folks are going to be all flattering I guess I have to post more updates...!

This past weekend was spent working on the plain white $20 Home Hardware leather gloves. I tried to order some Angelus dye online but had a computer problem. Thankfully I mentioned my intentions to someone in my company's theatre department and was loaned some acetone, crimson red Angelus dye and glossy finisher, and a variety of brushes.

The acetone was wiped on lightly & briefly to ensure there was no coating on the leather. From online research I understand acetone can be quite hard on leather, so nice that they were plain and only a simple wipe was needed. I then dabbed on & smeared/painted 3 light coats of the red and left on a baking screen in front of a 6" USB fan to dry overnight. Understanding that the finisher may prevent the black permanent marker from working well I decided to add my lines the next day. I then brushed on the finisher in 2 light coats so no dye/marker would escape.

The lines aren't perfect but they are quite good for such a manual method. I used a rubber mallot as a stand that would fill a finger well for the two sizes of tracing rings I have, and increased the handle's effective size by draping a cotton shirt over it before putting the glove over it. This & my actual hand worked for the fingers. For the palm/back I used .5" measurements, a ruler, and my foam ruler where a natural curve was needed.

Still have to trim the cuffs, stitch in Velcro spots on either side of the wrist to connect to the sleeves, and install the repulsors. The Repulsors will be either 3 8000mcd LED's 2.2V ea. running in parallel on a 3V button battery, or 3 14000mcd 3.8V white LED's with yellow covers running in parallel on a pair of button batteries. Will include a button switch in the circuits, but won't be ideal for dramatic blasts. =)
 

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Realized I skipped a progress shot of the V1 torso that shows the abs muscling technique that I've copied from Evil Ted's *new* torso template video. Will repeat on V2 almost exactly. The back muscles are done with the same lessons.
 

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