Ressikan Flute
- Thread starter Veldmaat
- Start date
modelnut
Active Member
Thank you, Mike!
I appreciate what you said. And I will try to get as close as I can to the prop. But, as I wrote before, I do not have a workshop or access to many tools. I have Hobby Lobby, Michael's and Amazon for supplies. I hope to end up with a playing replica flute. From what I have seen on Etsy what I end up with will certainly be better than what I have seen there.
- Leelan
modelnut
Active Member
I never said Mike was wrong. Not intentionally. But I do not have a lathe or any tools for shaping aluminum.
I do have a penny whistle with the right number of holes. I have puttied over the seam on the underside and will paint it as close to golden brass as I can. I have figured out a way to paint the silver rings around the finger holes. I have chrome silver tape to simulate the silver tube section and the silver sides of the mouth piece. I also have white embroidery thread and a white tassle from Hobby Lobby.
The wooden box will have to do. I will have this weekend to finish cutting the shapes and gluing them on. Hopefully I will also be able to paint it. The only foam I could find in town was white foam for stuffing seat cushions. I can paint it black and then with silver/aluminum spray paint to match the pictures and what Mike said.
I can't think of what I might have said that was disrespectful. If I did I apologize.
HMS Mike
Sr Member
I take no offense. No harm No foul. I do understand that some will not have access to some of the tools I have. I am just putting the information out there to help. You can use it or not that is up you, The individual making something. Use what you have and make things as best as you can.
Just be Happy Building .
How did you get the taper using the lathe? Did you have a thick piece of brass and machine it down or was it a thinner piece heated up and formed over a die with a pressure wheel on the side? I have a lathe and am thinking about tackling this. It looks pretty thin all the way down so curious about the process to get the main bodies shape.
HMS Mike
Sr Member
It was a solid rod of brass. you need to use the tail stock . Drill the end then remount and use the tail stock. Then step cut the brass until you are close to the shape. Then you can either do smaller steps or you can file it until smooth. Then drill your finger holes. You can also drill these before you step cut as well.
So its a pretty heavy prop then? How thick do you think the side walls of it were? ....If you remember....lol. Were the holes just filled with black paint and the reason it seems thinner then it is?
Thank you!! Looks like i need to get a piece of brass. One last question if i may, .....is it 2 pieces with the aluminum in the center or is the aluminum portion just a thin sleeve?
Thanks again Mike!!
Thanks again Mike!!
Coming along nicely!
modelnut
Active Member
OK. Here is the case so far.
Primed. Green base color. Over sprayed with Rustoleum Textured paint.
I don't think this is green enough. Tommorrow I will start sponging and weathering to try and get it closer to the prop. And it looks like I didn't go detailed enough with the leafing. Should have been smaller and lots more layering.
- Leelan
Primed. Green base color. Over sprayed with Rustoleum Textured paint.
I don't think this is green enough. Tommorrow I will start sponging and weathering to try and get it closer to the prop. And it looks like I didn't go detailed enough with the leafing. Should have been smaller and lots more layering.
- Leelan
modelnut
Active Member
Working on the flute etc.
In the first image you see the foam padding painted black and then dusted with a silver metallic spray (Rustoleum.) Both have been sprayed silver and are drying in the sun.
The second image show my solution to the silver rings around the finger holes. This is a sheet of Avery Hole Reinforcements that I primed with Badger Stynylrez Black Primer and sprayed with Vallejo Air Chrome Silver. I had originally thought to use the Avery for masks but they left too much adhesive residue once removed from the metal flute. Cleaning it off would have removed the paint.
Lastly, here is my Penny Whistle primed in black and painted using Vallejo Air Bright Bronze. In the bottom left corner many of you might recognize Paul M Newitt's Starfleet Assembly Manual #1 from the '70's. (Yes. I am that old.)
I another half hour or so I will give the flute another coat of Bronze. I will let it sit overnight to fully cure before adding the "aluminum" ring tomorrow.
Now back to the case.
- Leelan
In the first image you see the foam padding painted black and then dusted with a silver metallic spray (Rustoleum.) Both have been sprayed silver and are drying in the sun.
The second image show my solution to the silver rings around the finger holes. This is a sheet of Avery Hole Reinforcements that I primed with Badger Stynylrez Black Primer and sprayed with Vallejo Air Chrome Silver. I had originally thought to use the Avery for masks but they left too much adhesive residue once removed from the metal flute. Cleaning it off would have removed the paint.
Lastly, here is my Penny Whistle primed in black and painted using Vallejo Air Bright Bronze. In the bottom left corner many of you might recognize Paul M Newitt's Starfleet Assembly Manual #1 from the '70's. (Yes. I am that old.)
I another half hour or so I will give the flute another coat of Bronze. I will let it sit overnight to fully cure before adding the "aluminum" ring tomorrow.
Now back to the case.
- Leelan
modelnut
Active Member
I just found this image from the Picard museum from the TV show (I think).
Could this be a replica of the original prop? The tassle doesn't dangle as much as in the episode. And the finger holes are not lined in silver. I can't imagine that Picard would give this to a museum. It would be personally important to him having played it for fifty years on Ressik.
OK. Now I have to measure the tassle etc . . .
- Leelan
Could this be a replica of the original prop? The tassle doesn't dangle as much as in the episode. And the finger holes are not lined in silver. I can't imagine that Picard would give this to a museum. It would be personally important to him having played it for fifty years on Ressik.
OK. Now I have to measure the tassle etc . . .
- Leelan
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Of course it’s a replica and a bad one at that.
Comes as no surprise, it matches the show it is on
Comes as no surprise, it matches the show it is on
modelnut
Active Member
OK. Here is where I stand as of today.
I need to bring out more definition on the top of the box. Then that will be done.
I dug a channel in the foam for the flute to fit in using a sanding drum and my Dremel tool.
I painted the channel black and then with silver and let it dry.
I masked off the areas on the flute and sprayed them with Vallejo Air Chrome and applied the chromed Avery pieces. A tad too big. But I am happy with them. I very much doubt that I could have made them as perfectly round without the Averys.
Now I will leave it alone for the paint to cure. Then I will apply a gloss sealer to the flute that will hopefully make it seem more metallic. I have heard my friends rave about how well the Vallejo metallic paints do with the Badger Stynylrez primers. We will see how well it does for me.
- Leelan
I need to bring out more definition on the top of the box. Then that will be done.
I dug a channel in the foam for the flute to fit in using a sanding drum and my Dremel tool.
I painted the channel black and then with silver and let it dry.
I masked off the areas on the flute and sprayed them with Vallejo Air Chrome and applied the chromed Avery pieces. A tad too big. But I am happy with them. I very much doubt that I could have made them as perfectly round without the Averys.
Now I will leave it alone for the paint to cure. Then I will apply a gloss sealer to the flute that will hopefully make it seem more metallic. I have heard my friends rave about how well the Vallejo metallic paints do with the Badger Stynylrez primers. We will see how well it does for me.
- Leelan
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