resin model paint-up advice for a noob -_-

MooMooEgg

Sr Member
Need some really simple advice for a newbie who's never actually worked on any type of garage model kit...

I'm working on a Seburo M-5 my friend who's dressing up as Motoko Kusanagi (from Ghost in the Shell) for some upcoming convention in August, and I'm done with all the sanding/clean up. I need to know a few things and I think you guys would be able to help.

1) what's the best way to clean the resin before putting on the primer? just running it under water and letting it dry? canned air? just wipe it down with a cloth? I dont want any dirt/excess resin from sanding left on the kit before i prime it...

2) I went to Home Depot to find some gunmetal gray spraypaint, but they didnt have anything that looked right (they all seemed to look too light)... can someone direct me to a brand/color of spraypaint that resembles the grey in this completed pic?:

01.jpg


I dont need anything fancy... just standard can spaypaint (since I dont have an airbrush).

Any advice for the two questions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
 
use ajax or commet to clean it, I'd use testors metalizers for paint


Yep Ajax Or Commet are good for cleaning up resin mold release. But be sure to wash it THOROUGHLY to get every last speck of cleaner off of the surface.

Another cleaning option is Simple Green, this will cut through any residual mold release which might prevent paint or primer from sticking to the surface.

As for Testors Metalizer paints...I love 'em. I used them on my RPF Blaster and they worked a treat.
 
To clean a cast you should wash it in luke warm water with dish washing liquid in it. Don't use too hot water as it will deform the resin.

Once sanded you can bllow the dust off - use a hairdryer on cold setting if you haven't got access to an airline or canned air.

Draven
 
And make sure to use self etching primer for a solid bond,
available in the automotive stores, Don't use krylon crap primers ect...

GFollano
 
And make sure to use self etching primer for a solid bond,
available in the automotive stores, Don't use krylon crap primers ect...

GFollano

so basically, the stuff at home depot is useless? I got Rust-oleum Painter's Touch, which I'm assuming is a generic type of primer and paint (I also bought the same brand, semi-gloss black to paint the grips)... should I return it and buy something better online?
 
so basically, the stuff at home depot is useless? I got Rust-oleum Painter's Touch, which I'm assuming is a generic type of primer and paint (I also bought the same brand, semi-gloss black to paint the grips)... should I return it and buy something better online?


The top coat paint doesn't matter as long as you have a good primer that grips to the resin, etching primer etches into the resin, creates a super resistant bond, it's aliltle more expensive but worth it.

I had used krylon primer on a resin kit and was scratching off very easily, since then I only use self etching primer and never had a problem, trust me you don't want to start stripping off your kit, do it safe the first time, especially for a hand gun you might want to handle from time to time without worrying.

GFollano
 
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I love the Dupli-Color line of paints--these are mainly designed for DIY automotive touch-ups. You can sometimes find them at Wal-Mart, but I usually buy them at AutoZone or some other car parts/repair store--they're available in small and "regular" size rattle cans, as well as little brush & pen touch-up bottles.

They make a self-etching primer (which I've never used), but what I like is their black primer, which goes on with a slight satin finish--when dry it looks like black plastic. They have a range of dark "metally" grays that includes one called "Gunmetal" which is close to the pic you posted.

Dupli-Color also makes a range of specialty paints such a "trim paint", bumper paint, undercoating and bedliner, all of which would probably give you the "rubbery" look of the grip area on the Seburo.
 
Definitely go with the Duplicolor Self etching primer. That stuff is gold (not literally). I would look at using Duplicolor Gun Metal paint as well. Be sure to use the sprayer attachment to get nice even coats.

Scott
 
Thanks for the advice guys. I'm going to head out now to Autozone to get some of the duplicolor self etching primer and gunmetal paint. ^_^
 
So I spent the last week or so priming the gun and i have a few layers of semi-gloss black paint on the grips. I think I have a good number of light layers on it (the photo is extra shiny because I put the last layer on just before I took the pic)

seburogripakn6.jpg


but I'm having trouble getting paint into one little nook because theres a swicth right above it (it's the little bit of green circled below). the black spraypaint can I have shoots the paint in a pretty wide circular patten, and I'm afraid of overspraying into the little space. any advice, or should I man up and just get a little closer and fill it in?

seburogripspotsm4.jpg
 
If you have a small, (crappy) brush, you could spray the paint on it and blob a tiny bit in there. I've seen small paint "dobbers" at hobby stores that are essentially really nice Qtips that would work too.

Personally, I'd be a little leery of trying to catch it with a rattle can.
 
so basically, the stuff at home depot is useless? I got Rust-oleum Painter's Touch, which I'm assuming is a generic type of primer and paint

I hate the Rustoleum Primer. It's only good for tagging. It's real thick and always scratches off. I had good luck with the Krylon Gray Primer. The Krylon White and Black aren't that good.

I just got some Duplicolor Self Etching Primer. I have a toy I need to paint so I hope it's as good as people say.

Has anyone used the Testors Metalizer in the rattle can? Is it any good?

FB
 
I just got some Duplicolor Self Etching Primer. I have a toy I need to paint so I hope it's as good as people say.
FB

the duplicolor primer seemed to be really good. I ended up overspraying some areas and had to sand parts down, and it seemed like I was still sanding the actual resin. it was really stuck on there like a second skin.
 
back again... so I filled in that little gap with some pain on a paintbrush. I also masked the grips and started using the duplicolor gunmetal gray spraypaint on the rest of the gun.

now... i got a few light coats of the paint on, and it feels a little rough to the touch (the grips have the same kind of texture, but I dont mind the roughness there)... does this mean i should use heavier coats of paintor should I sand it down (with wet sandpaper) and respray it (I actually didn't sand down the primer, which I think i was supposed to).

also, since this is going to be handled, do I need some sort of overspray or clearcoat so the paintjob wont get messed up?

argh... all this stuff is so complicated...
 
Dupli-Color makes a nice clear coat.

To knock down slight roughness, I love the cheap scouring pads (for dishes & pans) I find at the dollar store for like 10 for $1. The green "3M" scouring pads are rougher than the cheap ones (and cost more :lol)
 
Ok, so I finished the gun a few weeks ago... here's a pic of the 95% finished gun (had some paint that leaked through the masking tape on the grip, so I had to sand and repaint that). Overall, it came out very good. I ended up using a charcoal gray metallic after the gunmetal looked a little too light in color (the charcoal better resembles the color of the gun in the anime, even if it is a tad bit too dark--but hey, this was my first project and I was on a deadline).

seburopaintsq1.jpg




Needless to say, she loved it. This was the end result. Thanks for all the advice.

ebk6080339tq5.jpg
 
nah. she actually did want to make one, but we were talking about the cost of materials and the time it would take to actually tailor them, and came to the conclusion that buying a premade costume from ebay would be the best route.
 
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