Resin Casting questions

BornKilr

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
In the last few weeks, I've begun experimenting with resin casting. I've poured a few simple random objects and all in all, they turned out alright. So I'm moving on into actual parts that I need duplicated. First, which type of resin is better? Not so much brand, but type: polyester, epoxy, etc. Second, how do you go about coloring the resin? I bought "Castin' Craft Color pigment" (black) and added 1/8 tsp to approx 1.5 oz of resin. It came out completely white as before. Also, eventually I need metallic colors. Any recommendations for this? And lastly, I bought clear epoxy resin for another test and it came out a milky semi-translucent color. Should it be completely clear, or did I do something wrong? Any help would be greatly appreciated
 
Urethane resins tend to be the standard for casting due to its ease of use and versatility (tinting, metallic effects, etc).

Polyester resins tend to be too brittle and heat intensive for casting and I've simply never used epoxy resins, so I can't tell you much about them other than I believe that they cost more.

As for your tinting problem, it depends on what kind of resin you are using. From the sounds of it you are using a resin that cures white, so no amount of pigment is really going to affect it much.

For your application I'd recommend checking out Smoth-On's "Colormatch" resins. They cure to an amber-clear and are made to be tinted and/or used with metallic effects.
 
Contact your local Smooth -On dealer-- I work with mine constantly and they are always giving me new stuff to try-- there is a coloring pigment called So-Strong that comes in different colors--even neon . I use it with Smooth cast 320 and it colors it great--
 
many times its cheaper and easier to use a pre-tinted resin or plastic. Tints tend to end up costing as much as pre-tinted and you will never get the same color consistency with self tinting. A very cheap alternative to liquid pigments is pigmenting powders but thats a whole new bag of terror to delve into once you have the basic trial and error of casting down. Reason is it thickens the material taking it from a basic "pour" to pre-pour and more steps. The casting will be that much better but its best to take things in steps and learn trial and error along the way.
 
Gel coat. No sense in tinting internal resin that'll never be seen. Plus it means you can use a cheaper grade of resin for back filling. I've used smooth-on smooth cast 300 with a bit(5%ish) of bentley chemicals paste pigment as a gelcoat shell and then added untinted smooth cast as a filler.
Pre-tinted gelcoat is a real timesaver.
 
Thanks for the replies everyone. So if pre-coloring isn't the way to go, then what kind of paint works on resin after casting? Also, heard nothing about the clear resin question. Should it be "glass clear" or is milky white normal?
 
Also, heard nothing about the clear resin question. Should it be "glass clear" or is milky white normal?

From Casting Resins into Molds :

One of the Holy Grails of rubber mold resin casting has always been the search for a method of casting an optically clear part. While many resins come in clear formulas, it seems impossible to cast them and have them come out clear enough to read through. As said before, resins always shrink and the last bit to cure is the surface-- this conspires to
prevent the reproduction of a glassy surface no matter how perfect the mold. (The one exception to this is a fully drafted vacuum-formed polyethylene mold, with a simple hemisphere shape-- as the resin shrinks, the casting slides further down into the bowl, maintaining contact with the surface of the mold. Alas, more interesting shapes lack this
quality.) While you can fill resins to minimize shrinkage, filling them will ruin the clear quality you're after. For decades the only way to get an optical surface was to cast it close, and then laboriously hand polish it to a rouge finish. Today, several companies, such as Synair Corporation or BJB Enterprises, (see suppliers list at bottom) offer "water clear" urethane resins. They are tricky to work with. Some have inhibition problems with certain silicones, for example. All are tremendously toxic sensitizers. They achieve a far more faithful unfilled casting fidelity by taking a long time to cure, so that the surface is not soft when the core cures. Synair's product takes 8-12 hours to set, and then requires a 2-4 hour "post-cure" at 275 degrees. These products are not perfect. There is nominal shrinkage, and the part comes out a little less than completely clear. However, they are close enough that adding one or two coats of clear gloss coat will achieve near-perfect clarity: a first in casting materials technology. Of course, being the holy grail, they cost an arm and a leg, but at least they're available.
 
The clearest casting material I ever used took days to sure under UV light in an open mold. The time frame was due to its size and depth in the mold. After that, it was carefully flame polished. In the end, not worth the time.
 
Ive used this kind of epoxy resin before and it comes out fairly clear. its the kind of stuff that they use to clear coat paintings and gives resturant and bar tables that ultra smooth glass like coating. It says 24 hours for curing but it took mine at least 2 days to get ultra hard (passing the fingernail test). I use this stuff frequently for glossy blood effects on prop knives and what not.

YouTube - ArtResin Epoxy - clear coat your paintings! (so easy)
 
Ive used this kind of epoxy resin before and it comes out fairly clear. its the kind of stuff that they use to clear coat paintings and gives resturant and bar tables that ultra smooth glass like coating. It says 24 hours for curing but it took mine at least 2 days to get ultra hard (passing the fingernail test). I use this stuff frequently for glossy blood effects on prop knives and what not.

YouTube - ArtResin Epoxy - clear coat your paintings! (so easy)

That's a laminating resin, not a casting resin. It's designed to cure in thin cross-sections.
 
That's a laminating resin, not a casting resin. It's designed to cure in thin cross-sections.


works just as good. i fooled around with it and tried it on my old mold of my ep3 brooch just to see and it worked out fine.


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works just as good.

Likely a lot more brittle though... Laminating resins are designed to be poured in thin layers, the extra mass from casting bulk shapes can increase internal heat during the cure creating unseen issues as well as warping and shrinkage... Also laminating resins are generally designed to use an existing support and strength structure, so they lack this internal support system to hold them together when cast...

Yeah they work, and yes you can get decent results sometimes, but a proven casting grade resin is a better option...

There has been many a people in this hobby who have attempted to cast parts with laminating resins, only to find out that they explode like a sheet of glass when dropped, impacted, or some other force is applied to them...
 
Sorry for the delayed response. Thanks for all the previous tips and suggestions. I've since read that casting clear resin needs to be done in a vacuum chamber to eliminate bubbles. But since the resin still won't be totally clear, that won't really help much.
I now have another resin question that I hope can be answered. What is the best/strongest adhesive for resin parts? I'm making a belt buckle replica, so it will be under a certain amount of stress. I need something to hold the clasp part that won't pop loose.
Second, what is best for filling bubbles/gaps in a finished resin piece? I used Testors Mold Putty, but while sanding, it popped out. Granted, my tube is several years old, so maybe that's the problem. Thanks for any help!
 
I find 2 part epoxy and or a urethane glue works best, I know a lot of people love CA glues but from my experience they always come up short...

For the epoxy I use one that has some 'give' they usually advertise them as 'impact resistant'....

JB weld also works well...

As for filling pin holes, I prefer Squadron putty thinned down with acetone, or I take epoxy putty and rub it into the holes... Bondo Spot filer works OK but it doesn't stick all that well, but it's quick and cheap, again dilute it with acetone a little to help it go into the small holes easier...
 
The clearest casting material I ever used took days to sure under UV light in an open mold. The time frame was due to its size and depth in the mold. After that, it was carefully flame polished. In the end, not worth the time.
My local Smooth=on dealer has a couple of items casted that are completely clear with no bubbles. Looks like crystal. He has a bust of the statue of David about 1/3 scale and then just a glass of water-- well--looks like water anyway.
Ill find out what it is and post some more info when i am back there next time.
 
I'm late to this thread, but the Castin Craft pigments don't seem to work well with white resin, like SmoothOn. I think it's only intended to color the clear polyester resin from the same company. I don't know if it colors casts and leaves them see-through or if it results in a more opaque color. I also tried it in white resin once and I used quite a bit, with next to zero results. If you absolutely have to use Castin Craft, make sure it's the 1:1 stuff and not the polyester resin that comes in a big can. You have to buy a separate bottle of catalyst and add drops of it. I've heard nothing but bad things about that product, and the fumes can be nasty.
 
Urethane resin is a lot easier than fussing with polyester and it's not as smelly.

I use Alumilite resin and the dye they sell. I can get some very dark primary colors with it mixing it as per instructions, not the annoying pastel effect you get with most resin dyes.

M
 
Smooth-on's Crystal Clear 202 urethane casts completely clear. I use it all the time.

The trick is to have a perfectly polished surface on your master and therefore in your mold. You can also polish the casting to make it clear if it isn't perfect when it demolds because you didn't make a perfect mold.
 
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